Coins Cachés: Lago di Como Right where the Lombardian flatlands and Italian alps converge lies Lago di Como, the third largest, and possibly most celebrated lake in Italy. Nestled below mountains of grandeur, the lake’s shores are home to numerous villas, housing infamous aristocrats and movie-stars. But beyond the glamourous waterside, there are roads leading to hundreds of wonderful divergences, all accessible by bike. Like a giant pair of hands laid out, thousands of lines move off into steeper, lesser-known territories. Through woods, planes and hidden Italian villages, there is certainly a route for everyone. Being home to the prestigious autumn race, the Giro di Lombardia, with many Italian professionals calling it their playground, the region is steeped in road racing heritage. Indeed, there is a chapel dedicated to past heroes of the sport, the Madonna del Ghisallo, on the pass of the same name. If the patron saint of cycling resides here, you’ll generally feel welcome as a rider, carefully being overtaken by friendly local motorists and pro-teams alike. Its two major seaside cities, Como and Lecco, are easily accessible by train or car from either Bergamo or Milan. We decided on one of the lake‘s smaller and more central towns, Dervio, for our base. All the towns along the eastern shore of the lake are connected via railway, which opens-up even more possibilities. Alpe Giumello Although Alpe Giumello is one of the highest points (almost 1600m above sea level) accessible by paved road around Lago di Como, it’s still an unknown gem. Beginning in Italian style with a coffee in our hands and the sun on our faces, we reluctantly saddle-up and ride with the shoreline towards Bellano. Right at the northern end of this little town we take a turn, away from the water and right into a series of switchbacks. With every meter the view opens up, and towards the top we see nearby Lago Lugano and the 4000-meter peaks of the Monte Rosa. Arriving at the pass of Alpe Giumello, just 250m shy of the peak, completing a 1330m climb feels good and we decide to treat ourselves to some traditional brasato al vino con polenta (beef and grits) in one of the alpine huts, before descending deeper into the backcountry. Crossing through several small hillside villages on our way back, where again we enjoy switchbacks, bathed in the evening sun and taking in a stunning view across the lake towards Dervio. Maloja & Bernina The Maloja Pass is the main road connecting the Swiss city of St. Moritz and the Italian municipality of Chiavenna. It therefore suffers from higher traffic compared to alternative mountain passes in the region. Nonetheless, it’s an incredible road to traverse as it offers a stunning change in landscape, and culture. We depart from Dervio at dawn, leaving the lakeside towards the north. In the shade the air is cool, but as we cross the main river Adda and into the Valtellina valley we are greeted by sunshine and a strong headwind rushing down from the mountains. After a coffee, a croissant and a quick roll through the cobbled streets of Chiavenna, we continue towards Maloja; passing through several small villages along the road which slowly change in appearance, from typical northern Italian to a more Swiss aesthetic. The road winds and turns into tight switchbacks, and that’s when we hit Maloja Kulm and get a stunning vista back into the valley. With the sun now at our backs we ride through St. Moritz and south towards our second climb of the day – the Bernina Pass. Only 600m of climbing stand between us and the top, which seems like nothing compared to the 2000m already in our legs. As the sun lowers behind the surrounding peaks and the sky slowly turns crimson, we hurry down the 2000m descent towards Tirano, where we catch the train back to Dervio. A long day in the legs but recovery comes in the form of hot pizza and cold beers. Bellagio & Brunate Turning our attention towards the south, we packed our explorational spirits into our jersey pockets and headed along the lakeshore to Varenna. Here we had a quick look around before boarding the ferry to Bellagio. From there our main route would begin, eventually bringing us up to Brunate, a small town located right above Como. Riding rolling roads and with the warm sun on our faces really didn‘t make us think of winter as we continued our way along the lakeside. Steadily heading south through Casate, Nesso, Riva and Torno to name a few of the numerous little enclaves along the way, before finally arriving at the city of Como. Worth a visit just on its own, we decided to have a look around before hitting this day’s comparably smaller climb up to Brunate and its lighthouse located just above. And whilst riding through Como’s little alleyways and piazzas, we every so often caught a glimpse of our goal to the east, high above the city. Being this close, yet so far up meant only one thing – a lot of switchbacks and super steep roads. We quickly stopped for a motivational pizza. Turn after turn brought us higher up to Brunate, never really breaking free of the buildings and residences. Finishing with several stairs up to the tower left us carrying our bikes to the top, from where the whole area opens-up and one could probably see the Dufour Peak on a good day. With the sun setting fast during these winter days we quickly turned to our descent which brought us through the village of Civiglio, down very fast roads back into Como, from where we took a train home to Dervio. Colma di Sormano A maximum 27% gradient and over 300 meters of climbing in just under two kilometres, that is the Muro di Sormano. But riding it turned out to be so much more than just numbers. Escaping the bustling morning traffic in Lecco on the eastern shoreline, a harsh headwind thankfully becomes a tailwind as we direct ourselves towards the town of Asso. Diverting from the main road into Asso, we experience a wonderfully authentic northern Italian town, with tight cobbled alleyways and cafés on every street corner. We roll on up through Rezzago and Caglio, stopping right before the Muro di Sormano. We mentally prepare ourselves for what’s to come. The ’Wall’ is infamous for its stubbornly steep slopes, and we take a collective deep breath before clipping in and moving on up. Only a few metres further along and we’re already stood on our pedals, grinding out every bike length. Each metre is generously marked by graffiti – the total height written right onto the road itself. We ride over more art from adoring cycling fans – motivational quotes and the names and times of legends who have raced up here. A drive-through gate at the end indicates the top of this brutal climb, affording us a view over the whole region as we catch our breath. A fast descent brings us back down towards the north into Nesso, where we snake round switchbacks down to the lake and wind further down towards Bellagio. There we reward ourselves with some aperitivi and watch the sun set on the lake before taking a ferry back to Varenna. Madonna del Ghisallo It would feel wrong not to include the famous Madonna del Ghisallo in a guide to riding around Lago di Como. And we decided to make this our final day’s route. Being one of those decisive climbs in the Giro di Lombardia since the race began in 1905, its top is usually heaving with cyclists, all visiting the chapel marking the summit. Starting with a morning coffee in Bellagio, we made our way up the climb, which starts right outside the city limits and leads with varying gradients south towards Civenna, before the final switchbacks to the top. From there one can either take the main road down through Asso to Lago di Pusiano or take a detour at Barni as we did. Bringing us further up to the Ristorante la Madonnina di Barni, from where we ride over the eastern branch of Lago di Como to Lecco. Pressing on from there took us down a deep descent into Lasnigo, latching on to the main road to Asso. With the sun on its way down again, we tried to avoid the main highway as much as possible and turned into Civate, passing through quiet streets. This led us to Santuario di San Martino, a church with incredible views of the lake and surrounding mountains – this was a little parting gift at the end before we rode back into Lecco to catch our train. Further Riding Coins Cachés: Boulder, Colorado Nestled on the eastern aspect of the foothills of the Colorado Rockies, the city of Boulder is a unique and idyllic hub for outdoor recreation—including cycling. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. SALZBURGERLAND Whether you are looking for a steep satisfying climb or a gentle Sunday ride, the Bavarian Alps have so much to offer, both on and off road. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. CAMBRIDGE Explore roads less ridden along the flat, exposed Fenlands, over Belgian berg-like climbs and through the iconic backstreets of Cambridge. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. JULIJSKE ALPE A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. ARIÈGE The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE

The Camargue – Between Sky and Sea There are places in the world that are sanctuaries for nature, where wildlife still seems untouched by modern life. The Camargue is one of those protected places, where the footprint of humanity is hard to find. The Rhône Delta forms the topography of this mesmerising habitat, a transition between the sea and the mainland. Its animal and plant life is exceptionally diverse. Birds are the VIPs, approximately 150,000 pass through every year, and the Camargue is home to 30,000 pink flamingos. The area is mostly flat, but a gravel bike is the vehicle of choice, as versatility is needed here. The mileage can be made more arduous if the mistral or the tramontane start to blow, and you will feel it in your legs, wheels and bones. Gusts can reach 100 km / h. On such a day a gravel bike is the wrong choice, instead a sailboat would be a much better option. Aigues-Mortes is an emblematic city of this vast territory. Its medieval walls are found in middle of the marshland, and only the salt mountains of the Salins du Midi exceed the tower of Constance, the highest point of the city’s imposing fortress. The city first appears in the history books in 1248, when Saint Louis supposedly set sail for Egypt and then Palestine on a crusade, departing from Aigues-Mortes. It is freezing cold in the alleys of the city this winter morning. We roll out along the embankment of the Canal du Rhône à Sète, the sun becomes more generous as the bikes begin to move at speed. Some sections of this route take us over boardwalks above the salty marshes, the wooden slats rumbling beneath our tyres. A road sign indicates 5km to reach the Tour Carbonnière, a 13th century tower, while the first flamingos appear in the surrounding ponds, undisturbed in their dozens. These imposing birds are an impressive sight. Feeding only on small organisms, the flamingo spends most of its time with its head underwater, making characteristic circles as it searches for snacks. With a hooked beak, the flamingo filters the salt water it receives, using its tongue to push the mud out of its beak to keep only what it wishes to eat. It is in what it ingests that lies the secret of its colour: pigments from Artemia Salina –a species of shrimp, and Dunaliella Salina ¬– a pink algae, are deposited on their skin and on their feathers giving them they’re iconic colouring. Their flights in formation over the marshes is breath-taking. This wonderful show needs plenty of time for an extended pedal-break, to drink in the surroundings before moving onwards. The last kilometres of the loop, which counts on the computer to just over 60, brings us back to the route’s starting point. As the horizon turns orange we stop at the beach to watch the sun slip into the sea. Further Riding Exploring the Morvan The Morvan isn’t easily explained. A mountainous massif lying in the centre of the undulating Burgandy region. VIEW MORE Tracks and Trails in the Ariège Five friends explore routes shared with the incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents of the Ariège by bike. VIEW MORE A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE

Boulder, CO Nestled on the eastern aspect of the foothills of the Colorado Rockies, the city of Boulder (population ~100,000) is a unique and idyllic hub for outdoor recreation—including cycling. With its proximity to a network of canyons that weave through the hills to the west, and open, rolling gravel with views of the mountains (and Boulder’s iconic Flatirons) to the east, Boulder is a town that offers riders a wide variety of terrain to travel on two wheels. Boulder was founded as an outpost for prospectors who flocked to the area in the mid 1800’s and many of the canyon roads featured in the following routes were forged to facilitate these early settlers’ quest for gold (in fact, a very popular destination for cyclists is to the town of “Gold Hill”). And while the hunt for rare minerals was relatively short-lived, Boulder’s climate and landscapes (and Colorado’s broadly) continued to attract people drawn by the allure of an invigorating mountain lifestyle—not so different from today. Fortunately, in 1967 (as Colorado’s population continued to grow), Boulder residents had the foresight to vote into law a Greenbelt surrounding the city. By approving a slight increase in sales tax, the city was able to acquire some 30,000+ acres to remain undeveloped, and thereby maintain an undeveloped perimeter around the city for recreation and wildlife habitat. This, in large part, is why there is access in most all directions to superior riding just minutes from downtown. Trails to Moxie Bread Co. ALL-ROAD Sometimes a coffee and a pastry offer the best excuse to get out for a spin. This route delivers that—at the Louisville bakery Moxie—but takes riders there via scenic gravel paths, two-track and single track with sweeping views of the foothills and Flatirons that make up Boulder’s western skyline. The rockiness of the two-track is fairly short lived and the singletrack is quite smooth so any all-road or gravel bike should do the trick. Starting from downtown (routed here from a bike shop) connect a few of Boulder’s many bike paths to make your way south. At 11mi (17.5km), pick up the Community Ditch trail and follow trails for the next 11mi to Moxie in Louisville. The bakery occupies a refurbished house, one of the oldest buildings in town, and specializes in farmhouse breads and rustic pastries made using locally-sourced, freshly milled flours (some made from heirloom wheat). From downtown Louisville, a few more paved bikeways will bring you to Teller Farms, a gravel connection that boasts some of the best views of the peaks along the Continental Divide. Following Teller, turn west and cruise back to downtown. North Boulder Tour de Gravel ALL-ROAD This route serves up some of Boulder County’s finest, flatter gravel terrain. Staged from the center of town, the route heads north towards Boulder Reservoir and the surface turns to dirt at just 5mi/ 8km in. Keep an eye out for eagles and hawks as you circle the reservoir and crest a few rollers—these birds of prey love to haunt the skies in this area. Past the reservoir, the route continues to weave a line north, threading together low-traffic (though popular among other cyclists) bucolic county roads until its northern terminus in Hygiene. Hygiene is a small community (not much more than an intersection on the main street) but it is home to The Mountain Fountain, a small country store that caters to cyclists with a few cafe offerings and outdoor seating for hungry riders. The highlight of the route comes along the return trip south. After a short climb up Gun Barrel Hill, the wide gravel path narrows to the engaging and punchy two-track that makes up the East Boulder Trails. This section only lasts a few miles but in this direction it offers a fun and dynamic intermission. Be sure to check your speed on the descents as some of the turns are sharp! Two Quick Climbs ALL-ROAD At just under 18mi/ 30km but with 2200ft/700m of climbing, this route packs a quick punch via two short climbs just minutes from town. The first climb travels pavement on the ascent and switches over to dirt for a fast descent while the second provides the reverse—a gravel climb to a paved descent down one of Boulder’s most iconic roads. Staged from one of Boulder’s most reputable coffee shops, Boxcar Coffee, head west to access Sunshine Canyon. At 3mi/5km in, there is a short gravel cut thru that rejoins Sunshine Canyon but provides a little more time off tarmac (Timber Trail; mapped here)—take it if you want bonus dirt or continue on Sunshine. Turn off onto Poorman Rd (left) after just over 4mi/7km and 1000ft/300m climbed. This dirt connector weaves through stands of evergreens while offering a few views of the divide before the grade changes to a fast downhill. At the bottom of the hill, turn left of Fourmile Canyon Drive for a bit more descending. At the intersection with Boulder Canyon continue straight across onto the bike path and follow the path west until it ends at Chapman Drive. One of Boulder’s backyard gems, Chapman is a gravel road closed to motor vehicles that climbs up the backside of Flagstaff Mountain. At 2.5mi/4km up, the climb winds through the forested hillside to gain just under 1000’/300m, with the steepest sections at the bottom. Once at the top, turn left for the winding descent down Flagstaff. While this is a popular road for cyclists, it is more popular among tourists so keep an eye out for vehicle traffic when sweeping through the many hairpin corners. The route finishes by rejoining the bike path and closes the loop again at Boxcar, which shares a space with the gourmet deli, Cured, that specializes in cheese, charcuterie, wine and sandwiches. Grab a sandwich on baguette (and maybe another espresso) and call it a day! The Best Way to Nederland ALL-ROAD Bring your climbing legs for this one as this ride takes an indirect and, at times, steep route to the small mountain town of Nederland (elevation: 8,236ft/ 2510m). The route starts with gradual and scenic climbing heading west along the Boulder Creek Path. As this gravel path follows its namesake creek past rocky outcroppings to join Fourmile Canyon, see if you can spot any climbers doing laps at the backyard crag. The warm up continues on the lower paved section of Fourmile Canyon until abruptly turning left onto Logan Mill Road (9mi). The next 3mi include sustained steep climbing to gain 1200ft/ 365m but the views and position in the network of surrounding canyons make it worthwhile. A short reprieve brings you down to join Sugarloaf Road, and from here it’s another 14mi/22km and 2400ft/730m of climbing to reach Nederland. The climbing continues on Sugarloaf—with one welcome descent thrown into the mix—with the pavement eventually turning to dirt. Sugarloaf deposits you on the Peak to Peak HWY (which, should you want to skip the last section of dirt climbing, takes you directly to Nederland); turn left and follow it for just over a mile to pick up Caribou Road. Turning right on Caribou, a final gravel climb gives way to the landmark five-points junction. Take the option that points southwest to continue on Caribou and enjoy the victorious descent into Nederland. Nederland has a few cafes/ bakeries but the most popular choice among cyclists is undoubtedly Salto Coffee, with Crosscut Pizza vying for a close second. For a low-traffic and scenic route back to Boulder, take Magnolia Road. From downtown Nederland, turn left onto Big Springs Drive and ride the short climb up to Peakview Drive before briefly connecting back into the Peak-To-Peak HWY to gain the junction with Magnolia Road. Turn left onto Magnolia and enjoy the rolling gravel and open views. Be wary that when Magnolia returns to pavement, the final 5mi down makes for quite the brake-dragging descent with several hairpin turns and grades approaching 15%. Stay alert for a couple miles on Boulder Canyon until you can rejoin the Boulder Creek Path for a few leisurely final miles back to town. Triple Canyon Connector ALL-ROAD Starting off with a sustained climb up to the old mining community of Gold Hill, this route spices things up on the return by incorporating a few fun trail connectors. From downtown Boulder, head up Fourmile Canyon. Once on Fourmile the road climbs for nearly 9mi/14km, gaining some nontrivial elevation along the way, eventually turning to dirt and winding through a few small mountain communities before opening up to sweeping views of Boulder below. At the top of the climb, the Gold Hill Store (just west on Main Street from the junction) offers packaged snacks, drinks, and simple fare in the form of sandwiches, pie, espresso and other treats. Continue east and up a short climb on Sunshine Canyon Drive. After an initial snaking descent, don’t miss the quick left turn onto County Rd 83. Follow the road to its end and ride past a green gate on your left onto the Rowena Trail. The next 2mi offer mostly wooded, engaging singletrack with a couple rockier stretches that, depending on comfort level and tire size, should be mostly rideable on a gravel bike. Rowena brings you to Lefthand Canyon, which after the singletrack provides a long smooth descent. Turn right up Olde Stage Road, then make an almost immediate left onto the Joder Ranch Trail. The Joder detour includes a short slaloming climb along an open hillside, a quick descent into the trees followed by a climb over the ridgeline before a final fast gravel buzz back down to the plains. The final miles include more buff singletrack (stay alert for the cattleguards) and smooth gravel, before picking up bike paths back in town. Further Riding COINS CACHÉS. CAMBRIDGE Explore roads less ridden along the flat, exposed Fenlands, over Belgian berg-like climbs and through the iconic backstreets of Cambridge. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. SALZBURGERLAND Whether you are looking for a steep satisfying climb or a gentle Sunday ride, the Bavarian Alps have so much to offer, both on and off road. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. JULIJSKE ALPE A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. PAYS DE GALLES God's country explored on two wheels. Rides between two coasts, designed to explore routes and roads less ridden. Through the valleys and over the hills. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. ARIÈGE The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE

Autumn colours of Seoul Seoul is quite a unique city. On the one hand, it’s a vast modern-day metropolis with skyscrapers, high-tech subways, and K-pop music culture. But, on the other hand, it’s a city of Buddhist temples, palaces and rich history of having been the imperial capital of the Chosun Dynasty. Back then, it was guarded on all sides by walls and gates with its boundaries extending to Namsan mountain in the south and Bukaksan mountain in the north, which acted as fortresses to guard the city against foreign invaders. Located along the Han River, and in more recent times, Seoul has been recognised as one of Asia’s most liveable cities with the second-highest quality of life globally. It also contains no less than five UNESCO World Heritage sites. Furthermore, with the popularity of road cycling in Asia on the rise, numerous pro-cycling events take place here, including the 2020 Asian Track Cycling Championships held at South Korea’s Jincheon velodrome. But, on the menu today is a scenic ride that takes us along the city’s beautiful Han River, up and over the iconic Namsan and Bukaksan mountains, and through the very heart of the city’s rich culture and history as we ride past the Gyeongbok Palace, which was built during Joseon dynasty in the 14th century. The summer months in Seoul are hot and humid and the winter months can be cold and freezing. It’s November when we ride, and this is the most beautiful time of year, where the weather is cool and crisp and a time when the city comes alive in waves of autumn splendour. The foliage of dazzling reds, burning oranges and rich golds are everywhere and provide the perfect backdrop to our ride. As is often the case, we meet at the Bango Bridge, one of the most famous meeting points for Seoul’s cyclists looking to ride the “Nambuk” route, which takes in the Namsan and Bukaksan mountains. Korea is a country of mountains. While these mountains aren’t the most challenging or scenic in Korea, they’re certainly the most popular Strava segments, given their convenience for Seoul’s urban cyclists. It’s a great way to get in some decent climbing without travelling outside the city. Although the Namsan and Bukaksan mountains only stand at a mere 300 metres in elevation, by connecting the two, you get a decent 1000+ metres of elevation on your Strava for this ride. The road that climbs up the Namsan to the iconic North Seoul Tower is a steady 4-5% gradient and only open to bikes and tour buses which keeps our ride somewhat conversational as we take in a few scenic views of the city as we climb. We soon reach the summit and marvel at the North Seoul Tower, a national landmark and number one tourist attraction in Seoul, where hanging love padlocks on the tower fence is a favourite tourist activity. We soon find ourselves descending at speed down on the drops and through the heart of the old part of Seoul and onto Gwanghwamun Square. It’s here where you’ll find the gate to Gyeongbok Palace. This “Palace greatly blessed by heaven” was once the heart of Korea and the power centre of the Joseon dynasty. The palace was also the home of the last Korean imperial dynasty to rule the nation before it became a republic. We always enjoy riding around the palace, arguably the most beautiful and grandest of all five palaces, with many lotus ponds, gardens and ornate statues. From Gyeongbok Palace, we ride through Seoul’s oldest neighbourhoods and onto Ewha Mural Village. It’s here in this scenic setting where we take a short break to share some snacks and admire the paintings and murals at this popular tourist venue. With fresh legs and high spirits, we set off back to Gyeongbok Palace, where Bukuksan mountain acts as a majestic backdrop and a reminder of the second climb of the day that we are about to attack. There are more than ten different routes up the Bukaksan to Bukak Pagoda at the summit, but we take the Bugak Skyway, the most beautiful driving route in Korea as the road twists and turns up and around the mountainside. The skyway is forested by think greenery, which looks even more spectacular in its autumn colours. The skyscrapers and bustle of city life soon fade behind us as we reach the summit where the Bukak Pagoda stands up tall in all of its glory. With its traditional Korean design, this octagonal pavilion is beautiful in all seasons, offers fantastic 360-degree views of Seoul and is especially famous for its views at night. The descent down from Bukaksan is one of my favourites, as it’s not too technical, and you can get down on the drops and just let the bike go and enjoy a few nice sweeping bends down to the bottom. We keep riding until we reach Samchungdong, where we decide to stop for lunch at a traditional Korean restaurant and enjoy a delicious feast of pork, soup and a few side dishes. Coffees soon follow lunch in an old traditional Korean style building with a garden full of bamboo trees and ginkgo leaves. Then, it’s time to hit the road again and head back to the Han River, cruising through the city streets and taking a scenic route that just seems to hug the Namsan mountain, and before we know it, we’re back where we started at the Bango Bridge. Today’s ride was relatively short at 50km, yet we achieved almost 1000 metres of elevation. As cyclists living in Seoul, much like other city dwellers, we live busy lives, so the “Nambuk” route gives us the chance to fit 1000 metres of climbing into our ride. In addition, it also lets us escape the urban metropolis for a few blissful hours as we become at one with nature. The global pandemic has prevented us from doing many things we love, except for cycling, where the appeal also comes down to freedom. Riding around Seoul in November is always our favourite time of the year as we get to enjoy the most spectacular views of Seoul in its autumn colours. Further Riding Échappée Seoul The best day on a bike is to go for a quick 50Km ride through the heart of city. Where the old and the new coexist and riding by night makes it even more spectacular. VIEW MORE Montagnes du monde #11 Before the modern-day cityscape took its form the city of Seoul was guarded on all sides by walls and gates. Seoul’s boundaries extended to Namsan in the south. VIEW MORE South Korea South Korea has an ever increasing cycling culture but in a city of almost ten million people, it can be hard to find space. It takes a little Seoul searching. VIEW MORE Global Locale series: South Korea Almost the entirety of it, from Busan to Seoul. 530kms through a country that is not much longer than that. VIEW MORE

Winter on the slopes of Mont-Ventoux On July 7th, Wout van Aert hurtled down the north face of Mont Ventoux on the descent to Malaucène and raised both arms in victory after having climbed the “Giant of Provence” twice in the same day on this gruelling stage of the Tour de France. On that day, the sun had bathed the spectators in its warmth. Thousands of cyclists had climbed the roads of Ventoux to watch the peloton pass by in those hot days of July. Like polar opposites, on this winter morning, when we pass through Malaucène, the sun has not yet risen. So 15km higher up at the car park at Mont Serin, one of two ski resorts in Ventoux, we put on our touring skis. On a bike, ascending the Ventoux from the Malaucène side is a classic route, but the experience is a little more unique on skis. In winter, the Ventoux takes on the appearance of a high, fearsome mountain, where for six months of the year, the summit is closed to traffic. In April 2021, three months before the Tour de France caravan paid a visit, a cold snap of weather passed through France, with a temperature of -30 ° C recorded at the summit of Ventoux. In French, “venteux” means windy, and the wind whips the Giant of Provence each winter, especially with the mistral winds. On November 19th, 1967, the highest ever wind speeds of 320 km/h were recorded - more violent than a tornado. This other side of the Ventoux is much less known to cyclists, who are fanatics about the Ventoux worldwide. In the 17th century, the inhabitants of this region were able to take advantage of this extreme climate. On the southern slope of the Ventoux, the farmers in Bédoin, equipped with picks and shovels, collected snow and ice from 1000 metres above and stored it in an ingenious snow pit. The proximity of Avignon, the “City of Popes”, generated a strong demand for a commodity difficult to make back then, ice. In the South of France, around the Meditteranean, meat and fish were neither salted nor smoked, and ice was the only way to preserve them. Eating fresh food and drinking cold drinks is the prerogative of the upper classes. Ice also has healing qualities. It can help stop bleeding, alleviate pain and stomach aches. In Avignon, at the Palace des Papes, under its imposing vaults, were coolers to ensure the preservation of this precious commodity. All of the surrounding towns, Carpentras, Orange, Nîmes and Montpellier etc., benefited from the supply of ice from Ventoux. The Ventoux ice was transported on the back of mules; however, the ice could lose as much as 50% of its volume during the journey. It was not until much later that the railways arrived to make this trade more accessible to everyone. However, with the advent of refrigerators at the beginning of the 20th century, the business of Ventoux ice became obsolete. From the Bédoin side, much like from Malaucène, those cyclists who have successfully reached the summit of Ventoux know how rocky the slopes are on the barren, lunar landscape towards the top. While traversing the snow-covered road with skis, we come across ski lifts and marked trails. The very idea of creating two ski resorts here seems absurd, to say the very least. Those ski slopes away from the tarmac roads require thick snow cover and exceptional conditions to slide with skis. This doesn’t spoil our pleasure though. When we successfully arrive at the summit, the temperature is -1 ° C, but it’s still early in the day, and a few snowflakes are swirling around in the sky as it starts to snow. The famous red and white posts are impossible to distinguish as the mist is thick. It’s deserted at the summit, and there’s no one to compete with us for the glorious selfie under the famous Mont Ventoux sign. The cold stings our fingers as we tighten our ski shoes and start the 6km descent. However, our skis quickly pick up a reasonable speed, which surprises us slightly. The Ventoux is seriously steep, so it’s with good reason that the ascent has always demanded a special effort. In five months, the snow will be gone; the sun will warm up the forest, and nature will emerge from its hibernation. The Ventoux will transform into its summer version, and its routes will re-open to the public. The bikes will resume their everlasting ballet in this great universe, and cyclists can again measure themselves against the Giant and especially against themselves. Further Riding It's Ventoux time When the organisers announced that the Ventoux would be climbed twice in the Tour de France 2021 edition, it was certain that July 7th was going to be a historic day. VIEW MORE Ventoux Times Two Scenes from the road side of the Mont Ventoux on Stage 11 of the Tour de France 2021. VIEW MORE The White Ventoux Climbing the infamous 'Bald Mountian' is tough in the best conditions. Sprinkle some snow and add some cold and the challenge becomes even more extreme. VIEW MORE Ça peak There is always a way to escape the madding crowds, in this case it's gravel. Finding fun on Mont Ventoux's G-Side. VIEW MORE

Exploring the Morvan The Morvan isn’t easily explained. A mountainous massif, and perhaps an abnormality, lying in the centre of the undulating Burgandy region, surrounded by vineyards, villages set back in time and full of rich medieval history. Lying in between four French regions, the Morvan is the smallest district in France and loves to give the impression of being a fortress. Seen as an impregnable mausoleum in the sky, with its resistance past and a political symbol of French cultural identity. But, that’s not what draws us here. Travelling to the Morvan is like taking a step back in time, and for those who love cycling, it’s a rich treasure trove waiting to be discovered. Many cyclists are now rediscovering this isolated Regional Natural Park, which is relatively inaccessible, extremely rural and has temperamental weather, yet is easy to get to from Paris or Lyon. A little piece of no man’s land in the very centre of France. Elise, Sophie and I already know that our rain jackets will play an essential role in this Halloween weekend. As is often the case, our adventure begins with the diesel-powered Regional train service, where the experience starts as soon as we leave the station. With its winding cobblestone streets and traditional stone and wooden buildings, Avallon is considered the urban centre of the Morvan and the northern gate from which to enter the massif. From here, the Massif Central stretches down across the middle of Southern France, and this highland region, with its mountains and plateaus, covers about 15% of mainland France. In short, we are about to embark on a three-day labyrinth journey, made up of gravel tracks through thick pine forests, and twisting, deserted roads which are often covered with a strip of moss, autumn leaves and a nice layer of water to top it off. The downpour of rain on the hotel veranda at breakfast on the first day confirms our worst fears. We take an extra espresso for courage, and then we attack the first kilometre, which is often the hardest to conquer. Lormes, Km 30. As crazy as it may seem, the Morvan is almost even more attractive in bad weather. Our first climbs are short but steep as the gradients top 20%. The isolation and solitude already feel delightful and will only increase as the weekend continues. It’s rare to see any villages, and the tiny roads appear to have been beautifully drawn with ulterior artistic motives. We stop at a bistro, which is lively as everybody who lives here knows one another. Then, with full stomachs and high spirits, we hit the road again to attack our first sections of gravel, some of which have been flattened by previous rainfalls. As we approach the central part of the Morvan, we find ourselves riding past a network of large artificial lakes created in the 19th century by damming several tributaries of the Yonne and Cure rivers. Back to the rain, which is by now less severe than we expected, and will soon disappear and leave the landscape covered in a beautiful mist. We find ourselves passing through the tiny hamlets of Porcmignon and La Chaume, with their evocative sounding names, before we reach the commune of Brassy for our daily snack, where we sit down in the only open restaurant and enjoy the breeze. We have three more climbs left, the most striking of which is the one that takes up to the central square in Ouroux-en-Morvan. If we had come to find the most beautiful vista, this is undoubtedly the most iconic of them all. We can barely see the facades of the buildings, and the few cars that dared pass deserve a part in any Hitchcock novel. Not so much as a metre of flat, and we soak up the magnificent, isolated roads that just seem to meander up the side of the mountain. After a difficult night’s sleep in Château-Chinon, we are about to tackle the most significant chunk of the weekend, a large part of which will be on the tarmac. It takes us the best part of an hour to reach the Southern part of the Morvan via a winding route that takes us back to the North-East so we can ride on one of the most beautiful gravel sections of the whole trip, which crisscrosses at around 700 metres above sea-level. We have these stunning gravel tracks to ourselves as they take us past La Socrates Maquis, the main encampment of the Morvandelle Resistance during WWII. At Haut-Folin, we find ourselves at the highest point of the Morvan, at over 900 metres, back on gravel tracks again, and the mountainside offers up a maze of cross-country ski trails that just seem made for our bikes as we test them to their very limits many times over. Happy but exhausted, the hardest part is still ahead of us - Mont Beuvray. This is a huge physical challenge, with its seemingly unpassable slopes, the magnificent panorama of Celtic ruins, and eerie looking undergrowth. The view is impressive, but the dark clouds coming in from the west are less so. But, we survive and reach the spa town of Saint-Honoré-Les-Bains, which is quietly tucked away in the Morvan and renowned for its healing qualities. The warm welcome reinforces the good first impressions we receive at what must be the only pizza flea market in France. There’s a Tim Burton horror film on TV, which couldn’t give us a better Halloween feel to our trip if we tried. To portray an image of the Morvan being frozen in time would be false. We discuss this on the last day of the ride as we leave this special place, climbing up the winding foothills to reach the Nivernais, which takes us to the very edges of the Loire valley. As with every time we enter such a parallel universe, we are deeply touched by the desire to maintain a particular way of life, with its natural surroundings, an incredible sense of solidarity and warm welcomes. A bit of a cliché, maybe? Probably in part as we’re just passing through. The fact remains that times are changing, yet this region seems to succeed in the feat of staying true to itself and safely tucked away from all the problems in the world that we have right now. It also provided us with a limitless cycling playground. Further Riding A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne. Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally. A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE Badlands: The Ultra Distance Gravel Race. Sophie Gateau tackles Badlands, an unsupported off-road race through Andalusia, made up of around 725km and 15,000m of altitude gain. VIEW MORE Back to Brittany For bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? VIEW MORE

Badlands: The Ultra Distance Gravel Race Badlands is an unsupported off-road race through Andalusia, made up of around 725km and 15,000m of altitude gain. The route begins in Granada, in the south of Spain, travels through two deserts, then snakes along the Mediterranean coast before climbing back up into the mountains of Sierra Nevada. It’s the start of September and we’re setting off early this morning. There are around 200 of us, we are like horses scraping the ground impatiently, ready to let it rip. It’s an impressive line-up – we are joined by a former Olympic champion and a mountain biking champion, the crème de la crème of extreme long distance, as well as a host of cyclists hungry for a new adventure. I signed up to this race with my friend Adrienne, and it’s rather different than what I’m used to. The photographs of the landscapes showcased by the race organisers made us want to see them up close. I have never ridden in the south of Spain, let alone in a desert. The day before the race, with temperatures already super high, I started to doubt my set up, so I added a third water bottle and an XXL-sized bottle of sun cream. The route starts midway up the mountains on an uneven track which zigzags through arid terrain. The olive groves become rarer as we go through the day. By 10.30, it’s already more than 40 degrees. We decide to stop, as soon as we find any kind of shade, to cool down. The scenery is sublime. We enter the National Park of Sierra Nevada, and we climb a scorched col. We meet a solitary golden cow who seems to wonder what we’re doing here. We ride along the white trails, taking advantage of the freshness of the lessening heat as the day wanes, and finally, we set up our bivouacs on a plateau under a sky filled with thousands of stars. The night is a lively one – a boar comes to rummage through the bushes by our feet, local farm dogs chase it away and, finally, a herd of goats with incandescent eyes pass by, rounding off the animal parade. The sun rises late in southern Europe in this season. We set off again in the middle of the night to get some hours of riding in the cool under our belts, before we must face the crushing heat again. After many twists along steep paths, we reach the strange town of Purellena, located in the Hoya of Guadix. Lots of cave homes are built into the hills in red clay. Orange dust is everywhere, and it gets into every nook and cranny of our bikes so that they start to squeak. Freaky insects, snakes and other unknown creatures will hear us coming from a mile away now. At the end of the morning, we arrive at the first checkpoint, Gorafe. A wall, in the form of a mountain, towers before us. The route does a loop in the desert and we pass exhausted cyclists who are coming back from it. One of them tells us that this section is extremely difficult and that there are no waterpoints. We learn that several participants are suffering from heatstroke and there are a number of cyclists abandoning the race. For me, the aim of this adventure is to go as far as I can. Adrienne and I decide to short-circuit this loop, so as not to use up all our ammunition – too bad about the race since, effectively, we are disqualified from here on. The course crosses an austere flat plain. It’s still over 40 degrees, there are some olive trees and almond trees planted in the rocky fields. The wind picks up. Even if it’s not in our favour, the faintest circulation of air becomes a luxury that we appreciate enormously under this suffocating heat. We reach the village of Gor, in the middle of which a large fountain presides. Lots of racers cool off, take a nap or refuel before the next difficulty - a long col half road, half gravel which climbs up to 2000m. We attack the climb while the sun is setting and make camp in the middle of the long ascent. A sheepdog barks at us in the middle of the night, no doubt displeased with us settling too close to its herd. I think I’m going to have to revise my notes on ‘how to find a good bivouacking spot’. We pedal onwards in the pitch black of the early morning. The end of the climb is a wide and gentle track – the sun rises in time for our arrival at the top. We enter the Sierra de Baza nature reserve. After crossing a dry zone without any trees, we reach the highest point of our journey, the summit of the col of Calar Alto. Many observatories have been installed here, no doubt the view is clear and unobstructed. Next up, a 25km descent – one which should be ranked in the top 20 most beautiful descents – along perfect tarmac, with breathtaking views and no sign of a single car. It takes us down to the village of Gergal, the doorway into the Tabernas desert. We sleep just at its edge, as bivouacking is banned there. Crossing a desert at sunrise is a magical experience – the amazing views come one after the other. We ride through sand in the middle of canyons and we walk, pushing our bikes on trails which line the cliff edges. We explore abandoned villages, and we go through places where several Western films were shot. The next morning, we arrive at the foot of the ‘plastic sea’, a huge terrain covered with white plastic greenhouses which are used to make the tomatoes grow intensively. This part of the race leaves a bitter taste in our mouths. The Mediterranean is finally in view. It is a deep blue and the water is clear. We couldn’t resist a quick dip before continuing our route along the coast. A path hanging over the cliffs takes us to Cabo de Gata, a nature reserve for birds and a site with volcanic origins. We see a lot of flamingos here. The sun is setting, we still have 30km to go until Almeria, the big city in which we had planned to spend the night. But we are out of luck – this section is covered in sand all along the beach. It will take us about three hours to get through it. We meet two Swedish participants and we each weigh up our chances of completing the race before tomorrow’s 8 PM deadline. There are still 200 km left to go, with 4000m of elevation gain. All four of us agree that the challenge is impossible. It’s finally time, then, for a long overdue and well-deserved beer. Further Riding A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne. Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally. A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE 7 Majors Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change through the Southern Alps in both France and Italy. VIEW MORE Riding With Purpose #2. Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown. VIEW MORE Back to Brittany Bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? VIEW MORE

Tracks and Trails in the Ariège I’ve always been fascinated by animal tracks and trails and the birds that fly high above them. I have spent countless hours watching birds and will follow the paths of unknown animals wondering where they’re going and where they’ve come from. The routes I ride often share the same terrain, the impressions in the ground a clue to who resides there and the songs in the trees a giveaway for the birds who make their lives there. The Ariège is home to an incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents, from wolves and bears to eagles and vultures and a plethora of animals in between. Tomás and I came up with a plan to combine our love of nature and the bike and use it as a tool to widen the search area. We invited good friends Lucie and Lea along for the ride and using the skills of photographer Joe (a self-confessed natural world addict and a human encyclopaedia of Ariège flora and fauna), we plotted a mixed terrain journey into the wildest parts of the region, to seek out more of our indigenous neighbours... It’s a strange feeling when your destination is an unknown spot visible from your starting point but that’s the position we find ourselves in and for the next 24 hours we will journey across the Ariège; leaving Zero Neuf and the northern fringes of the region we’ll head to its high southern ridges and the border with neighbouring Spain and Andorra. We will ride, push and carry our bikes as we make our way to a mountain top rendezvous with Joe and a night under the stars. The topography of the Ariège is extremely varied and our route begins on a wide double-track chemin alongside the river l’Hers. We are moving over open farmland; this is passerine territory and home to deer and hare, badgers, genets, stoats and coypus. A kingfisher darts across the water as we ride by and kestrels hover above us searching for lunch. A stop in Mirepoix for bread and cheese and that means a visit to Chez Lucie; a wonderful fromagerie and delicatessen in the centre of town. After much deliberation, we opt for a local ‘tomme de brebis’ and a ‘tomme de chèvre’. We’ll pause for lunch alongside the river in the picture postcard village of Camon so that means the next section of the route is along a disused railway line and with more tree cover, the birdsong is a blissful mix of black caps and nightingales. As we near the high mountains, we ride through meadows filled with wildflowers and the sound of skylarks fill the air, a reminder of walks with my grandfather and one of my favourite bird songs. There are tracks everywhere, likely to be wild boar but it’s hot and they are deep undercover sheltering from the sun. I imagine them watching us wondering what on earth we are doing in their backyard. We head into the Gorge de la Frau, an ancient path connecting the Aude and Ariège, with 400m high walls of limestone on both sides. A protected area, this is the home of golden eagles, a host of other raptors and birds, rare flowers and bats amongst others. This is ‘hike with a bike’ territory and as we make our way slowly up the rocky slopes, our bikes balanced precariously on our backs, we are left in constant awe of the scale and beauty of this landscape; we are so very lucky to be here. We’re above 1,000m now and up on a magnificent plateau, orchids and butterflies everywhere. The landscape is changing and our mountain top destination and home for the night is looming above us. There are reminders everywhere that we are riding amongst the region’s wild inhabitants, their homes and hunting grounds, we are privileged visitors to their world. A short-toed eagle soars above us hunting for an evening meal as we make our way up to our route’s highpoint and our rendezvous with Joe and his partner Emilie. It is time to hang the hammocks, open a beer and watch the sun as it sets behind the high mountains and the frontier with Spain. True to Joe’s word, the mountain’s resident marmots are up by the time we are brewing our morning coffee. It’s a highlight of the trip watching them sunbathe flat on their backs and they’re certainly a unique breakfast companion. The tracks and trails we followed to reach this point had given us much and with our eyes and ears well and truly open, the joy of riding the bike was elevated to a new and enriching level. This is the experience, adventure and escape we can all feel when we immerse ourselves (responsibly) in nature. Further Riding Coins Cachés: Ariège The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE This Is Further The adventure race where ultra-endurance meets hike-a-bike and where pushing beyond the norm produced both an exciting battle for the win and dramatic fights simply to finish. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE Jurasick Park The PCR Gravier collective is back with its latest adventure – a grand traverse of the Jura mountains. But did they find any dinosaurs? VIEW MORE

Roc d'Azur: The CDC Gravel Team It's Roc d’Azur 2021 and the ‘True Grit’ Café du Cycliste team are taking part in the race. Here at Café du Cycliste, it probably hasn’t gone unnoticed that we really like gravel, even more so when the cyclists mounting their saddles have hearts like warriors, afraid of nothing. Showcasing women cyclists, our True Grit series has proven that, for them, the tougher the weather conditions, the muddier the terrain and the more treacherous the path, the more they excel. It’s in this spirit that the Café du Cycliste gravel team was formed, with women who stop at nothing and who are ready to throw themselves at these tough races. It’s only for the brave. The Roc d’Azur Gravel acted as the launching ground for this adventure. The Roc d’Azur is a legendary French race, the biggest national gathering of mountain-biking racers: more than 20,000 participants and 32 nations represented, with 33 races over 4 days. It’s where the best in the world go head to head before the end of their season. The Roc d’Azur Gravel is 65km with more than 1,500m of elevation gain. Our girls will need to give everything they’ve got. With three racers and three nationalities represented, the Café du Cycliste team set themselves apart on the start line by way of their energy. Holly (United Kingdom), Charlotte (France) and Maria (Iceland) dance and move about, seeming to shake off the pressure, if there is any. What’s at stake? Isn’t the prize already won by giving it your best shot and enjoying the moment? At Roc d’Azur, a crucial part of the race takes place at the beginning – good to know for next time. You need to be among the first racers to cross the river Argens to avoid having to put your foot down and wait for too long while the group navigates this difficulty. This is the time to see which groups will fly ahead and take the lead. Then, it’s all about putting your head down, overtaking cyclists one by one, and clawing back your position to get closer to the front-runners. At 10 km, Charlotte puts her foot to the ground, tired out. A week of bronchitis has exhausted her, and it’s impossible to carry on. As for Holly, she battled with a puncture way too early on and it took too long to repair to get her close to a podium position. Maria, having had to wait impatiently for too long over the Argens river, fights to push her way back through the positions. Being used to long races in often hellish conditions in Iceland, the cross-country national champion is, by the end, not a long way off from the top step of the podium – she finishes second after giving a beautiful performance. This is just the start of a long-term project for Café du Cycliste. Our True Grit team will get going on more beautiful races next season. Thanks to Sportograf for the images. True Grit True Grit #1 - Maria It’s a privilege to be able to go out your front door and suddenly be in an environment which is the perfect sample of Iceland’s nature. VIEW MORE True Grit #2 - Lucie I escape with just the basics: a bottle, a survival kit, something to snack on, and then we’re off on the wild roads. VIEW MORE True Grit #3 - Karen This ride is special for so many reasons. There are over 100 miles of gravel track to explore and the setting is absolutely stunning. VIEW MORE True Grit #4 - Imogen We have a beautiful National Park at our doorstep. It has endless old forestry roads and lots of climbing and descending and plenty of challenges. VIEW MORE True Grit #5 - Emily I live, work, and play in San Francisco, California; and am always in motion, be it cycling, mountaineering, or dancing. VIEW MORE True Grit #6 - Michelle A gravel bike is the perfect way to explore the rural heart of Switzerland. VIEW MORE

Rindu Alam Puncak: a Ride in Indonesia There are two climbing routes the cycling community in Jakarta usually take; one is Sentul, located right outside the city, the other one is Rindu Alam Puncak which has been a favorite vacation spot for families for decades, which both are located in the province of West Java. I had never been to Rindu Alam with my bike so I decided to take this route on a Sunday where there’s plenty of time for me to really enjoy the trip without having to rush to work after. Rindu Alam restuarant at Puncak Pass is known for the views of tea plantations and the poffertjes (a Dutch heritage). The last time I went I was in elementary school, around 13 years ago; I knew this trip would bring back old memories to when I was just a little kid driving with my family from Jakarta to Puncak for the beautiful views and delicious food. Then I thought who would’ve been a great ride companion for an unfamiliar route: Santia, my cycling coach, an Olympian finalist. After fueling myself with an americano and a banana, I was ready to go. We drove from Jakarta to Gadog, parked our cars and started cycling from there. There were already many people with motorcycles who were also riding up to Puncak. Remind me, it’s a weekend. I thought maybe we should have started earlier to avoid traffic, but it’s too late now. At 06.30 we started cycling up to Puncak; did not know what to expect, we were greeted right away with some fiery climbs. The weather was pretty chilly at 20 degree celsius, a very different feel to my usual ride in the city. For the first half of the ride we were surrounded by traditional market and local restaurants as we rode side to side with cars, trucks, motorcycles and horses, with many mountain sightings. 15 kilometers in, we were greeted by the tea plantations and much bigger streets with very limited transportations. It was beautiful. Many visitors stopped at the side of the streets for photos and snacks, but we decided to keep on going. I really enjoyed the climb up, it was breezy and my eyes were blessed by the views, what a good break from the city life. We then reached the restaurant at 22.63 kilometers with a total elevation gain of 1,002 meters. This was definitely one of the most enjoyable rides I had ever been on and something I would do once every two weeks. I closed this trip by rewarding myself with the famous poffertjes and a glass of bajigur, a traditional hot beverage from West Java which is usually a mix of ginger, brown sugar, and coconut milk. A very happy quick getaway. Further Riding A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne. Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. READ MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally. A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September READ MORE 7 Majors In the middle of a very unusual summer, Sophie Gateau decided to take on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. READ MORE Dancing on a volcano. Mauna Kea is the highest point in the state of Hawai’i, with its peak towering at 4,207.3 m above sea level. It is often blanketed with snow and always protruding above the clouds. READ MORE Bikepacking in the Lone Star State Endless gravel trails, purple posts, rising temperatures and lots and lots of sunscreen. READ MORE

A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne Did you know that France is a land of volcanoes? Well, more than 1,000 volcanoes, dormant or inactive, can be found within the Auvergne region, an area in which there are probably more cows than humans per m2. We set out to explore this region on our bikes, armed with our cameras, a tent and a knife (a crucial accessory for cutting into Auvergne cheeses). Our route takes us through places we want to photograph and friends we want to see. Its shape doesn’t resemble much, but it’s 670 km with an elevation gain of 10,440m. We’ll encounter primarily cattle and tractors for seven days straight. We set off from Brive-La-Gaillarde in Southwest France, and our first stop is Corrèze, a village within the county of Corrèze and through which the Corrèze river flows. We are in the Massif Central, the architecture is austere, the grey stone houses with thick walls are built to withstand the harsh winters. Our friend Justin, cyclist, baker and former Parisian, left the capital to settle here. We discover his new playground, a neat mixture of small traditional villages, waterfalls, forests, the Causse Corrézien, the gorges of Dordogne and narrow, almost deserted roads. The keynote of our trip could be ‘no man’s land’. We ride for hours without meeting a living soul, the views and wilderness are for us alone. We return to civilisation to find supplies to keep us going, and we stock up before returning to the little roads that snake around these ancient volcanoes (also called puys in the Massif Central). The forests seem to be enchanted, with their pines, oaks and other winding trees. Journeying from one part to the next is marked by the changing breeds of cow, which graze peacefully on the flat plains. The first breed we meet are Limousine cattle, hazel-coloured. These are replaced by rustic Salers, dark mahogany in colour, in the Mounts of Cantal. Finally, in Cézallier, we find Aubrac cows, the most beautiful of them all, with their big eyes rimmed with black, as if drawn on with khol, highlighting their tawny coats. It is the beginning of August, but it feels like October – it’s raining, it’s cold, and even the locals find the weather exceptional, in the worst sense of the term. In the small village of Marcenat, you can find the only café for miles around, still decorated as it was in the 1950s. The owner predicts that the temperatures should improve, because there’s going to be to a new moon that night. That never happened. We’re not unhappy with the autumnal weather though. There’s nothing worse for taking photographs than a big blue sky during the peak of summer. We are spoilt with grey clouds, wet roads and rain jackets flying in the wind, they add an epic touch to each photo. The climax of our trip is set to be the climb to Puy Mary, one of the highest summits of the Mounts of Cantal, standing at 1,783m. We start it beneath intermittent rain, we climb the col of Serre which leads to Puy. ‘You won’t see anything up there,’ the locals say to us, ‘the summit is hidden in the clouds.’ So long Puy Mary then, we’ll come back another time. We turn off and take a road which slowly descends several dozens of kilometres to the village of Dienne. The panorama is sublime – the green mountains unfold along an invisible line which seems to follow our route. We arrive at Allanches, the final village for a while and the doorway into Cézallier, a volcanic plateau sitting between the Mounts of Dore and the Mounts of Cantal. It’s certainly one of the best-kept secrets in the cycling world. It’s heaven to ride along – no one around and incredible landscapes consisting mainly of huge meadows with herds of Salers cows which stay for the summer grazing, the wet boggy land, and the moors, filled with heather and gentian. We find ourselves daydreaming of the barren steppes of Mongolia. The little town of Massiac, which we reach after a long decent from a plateau, marks the end of this solitude. The town signals the start of the agricultural plain of Limagne, which opens out between the Chaîne des Puys to the West and the Mounts of Forez to the East. Goodbye marmots, birds of prey and blueberries! Hello wheat, corn and Côtes d’Auvergne wines. We climb back up the Chaîne des Puys, looking out at the medieval villages clinging to its sides, and at last, we meet hikers on bikes who travel down the amazing gorges of Monne. We savour these last climbs and descents, which become more and more subtle and less and less high. We pass walkers with their baskets full of girolle mushrooms, delighted with their outstanding, early harvest. The farmers work tirelessly cutting hay until dusk, taking advantage of the summer weather at long last. The café owner’s prediction about the moon finally comes true. Further Riding Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE 7 Majors In the middle of a very unusual summer, Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change. VIEW MORE Back to Brittany For bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? VIEW MORE Riding With Purpose #2 Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown. See Sophie’s view from the saddle whilst riding with purpose, 'Pour Eux'. VIEW MORE

Coins Cachés: Cambridge Cambridge might not be well-known as a cycling hotspot, but most people will be familiar with the prestigious University of Cambridge. A city of history, culture and world-changing discoveries, Cambridge is home to more Nobel Prize Winners than any other city. Cambridge has a great network of cycle paths in and around the city, along with riverside parks, grassy commons and cool meadows. Cambridge's elegant centre is framed by architectural triumphs, such as King’s College with its towering Gothic chapel. Sitting on the River Cam in the east of England, it is a compact city which is easy to enjoy on foot, as well as by the river – punting on the River Cam isn’t to be missed. Whilst it may not be as spectacular as les Alpes, or Le géant de Provence, this area is one of the driest in the UK and the route possibilities are endless. It’s here in the flat landscape of northern Cambridgeshire where you can ride exposed sections and experience the Fenland winds, just like Ghent-Wevelgem. Towards the east of Cambridge, the rolling landscape is more challenging, with short, punchy climbs along unspoilt backcountry roads, with a number of descents and sharp technical turns. This is your mini-Ronde van Vlaanderen, albeit minus the pave. The diversity of routes really does offer cycling for every rider’s taste. From scenic style rides on backcountry roads with a coffee stop on deckchairs at The Orchard in Granchester, to conquering three counties in one day, weaving through quiet country lanes and talking in picturesque churches and charming villages. Pro tip: if you run short of water, every village or Town in the UK has a church and most have outside taps from which you can top up your bidon. THE THREE COUNTIES ROUTE This ride is characterised by rolling roads through charming villages and past picturesque churches. No less than three counties are on today’s menu, linked together by quiet country backroads which are off the beaten track so you can get away from the madding crowd. The route starts at Newmarket Racecourse, the home of British horseracing and where some of the country’s classic horse races are hosted. From here the road heads south through Cambridgeshire. After just over 20km, you’ll arrive at Sturmer where the aptly named ‘Hill Lane’ awaits you. This single lane track offers a short, steep climb, combined with a nice descent past fields, with some sharp technical turns. Watch out for loose gravel and a few potholes. From here the route traverses through the county of Essex, taking in some quiet roads through the unspoilt countryside of arable fields of wheat, barley and oilseed rape. If you’re lucky and keep your eyes open, you’ll have the chance to spot the local wildlife. The area is home to many kinds of birds of prey, as well as three species of deer who sometimes leap out across the road in front of you. You’ll eventually find yourself heading back north and into Clare, Suffolk’s smallest town and the perfect place to stop for coffee and cake. With a little under 30km to go, you can sit back and enjoy a series of gentle climbs and some faster sections as you head back to Newmarket for a well-deserved cold beer! NEWMARKET HILLY ROUTE This is a route suited to those who like the simple things in life. Characterised by almost 150km of quiet backcountry roads off the beaten track, where you can just lose yourself and be at one with your bike and nature. The route starts at Newmarket Racecourse as well and from here the route meanders slowly in all directions along quiet backcountry roads. At times it can feel like a Belgian Classic as you ride through a rolling landscape, with sweeping bends and short, punchy climbs that appear out of nowhere. After around 80km you’ll find yourself in Clare, one of Suffolk’s most charming towns and the perfect place to stop for coffee. From here you head towards the aptly named Cavendish and continue riding along quiet roads through open countryside. If you keep your eyes open, you’ll be able to spot the local wild game, particularly pheasants. If you’re hungry your mind will start to wander to the classic French dish, Pheasant Normandy, where the pheasant breasts are roasted in apples and cider. You may even get the chance to race a hare on one of the lanes – although they are known to reach speeds of nearly 70kmh. At Hartest, the best climb of the day awaits you. With 38m of elevation difference over just under 1km it looks like a wall as the gradient nears 12%. After this Belgian berg style climb, you can sit back and admire the rolling panorama and enjoy some gentle climbs and faster sections as you head back towards Newmarket. THE FENLANDS ROUTE On today’s menu is the Fenlands, an area of reclaimed marshland in northern Cambridgeshire, which is below sea-level in several places. This is your mini Ghent-Wevelgem - an extremely low-lying landscape of straight, flat roads with exposed sections and the Fenland winds. The route starts at the Cambridge Science Park, with its stunning modernist architecture and home to some of the world’s leading technology businesses. From here you’ll take the guided busway route to St Ives - 20km of traffic-free tarmac cycle path along the world’s longest guided busway. After cruising through the historic market-town of St Ives and onto Ramsey Heights, you can enjoy some rolling roads, a few gentle climbs and a stunning panorama. At Ramsey Heights the fun begins as the route takes in roads used on the official Tour of Cambridgeshire UCI Gran Fondo route. If you’re with a group, then now is the time to form your echelon as you get your first taste of the Fenland winds. For the next 70km you’ll feel like you’re in The Netherlands as you enjoy a mind-blowing landscape of straight, flat roads running parallel to dykes, with modern windmills on the horizon. After Ramsey, you head back towards the guided busway via Earith, along winding, flat roads that run parallel to dykes and traverse several small bridges. Then sit back and enjoy the last few kilometres of the ride on the traffic-free cycle path as you head back to the Cambridge Science Park. THIS IS CAMBRIDGE ROUTE The 2014 Tour de France stage 3 started from Cambridge, so on the menu today is a scenic style ride taking in the best bits of Cambridge. The ride starts with a double espresso from one of the cafés outside King’s College and its towering Gothic chapel. From here you head out of town and onto the narrow, bumpy cycleway through the idyllic Granchester meadows and into Granchester, a quaint village beside the River Cam, home to thatched cottages and the famous Orchard Tea Garden. This really is a corner of England where time stands still as the outside world rushes by. Heading north past the meadows you’ll eventually reach Madingley. As you climb Madingley hill, you’ll see the American World War II Cemetery on your left. The panorama of 4,000 headstones is truly mind-blowing and in honour of airmen who died over Europe and sailors from North Atlantic convoys. You’ll then traverse north along quiet backcountry lanes and across to Waterbeach. The landscape then changes before your eyes into a few rolling hills and from countryside to suburbia, as you take some hidden cyclepaths back into town. The best is saved until last as you ride past Midsummer Common and through Jesus Green along the iconic tree-lined path. After traversing the bridge over the River Cam, the route flows onto The Backs. This is one of the most picturesque areas in Cambridge, with it’s with stunning views of the University colleges that back onto the River Cam. Then you head back to King’s College for a well-deserved coffee. FOR LES COINS CACHÉS COINS CACHÉS. SALZBURGERLAND Whether you are looking for a steep satisfying climb or a gentle Sunday ride, the Bavarian Alps have so much to offer, both on and off road. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. JULIJSKE ALPE A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. PAYS DE GALLES God's country explored on two wheels. Rides between two coasts, designed to explore routes and roads less ridden. Through the valleys and over the hills. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. ARIÈGE Explore more, find hidden corners and lesser known places. The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. SKÅNE The route possibilities are almost endless but the main attraction is the enormous network of gravel roads. Across gentle hills, through stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and with the sea on three sides. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. KESKI-SUOMI There's off the beaten track and then there's really off the beaten track. Central Finland has a network of routes and trails that could have been designed with gravel in mind. And in a way they were. VIEW MORE

The Santiago Pilgrims A pilgrimage on 2 wheels to the Santiago de Compostela cathedral, where the tomb of Saint James the Great allegedly lies and where La Vuelta 2021 finishes this year on September 5th. Read the article on the pilgrimage and the race here. Martin Subelo From aldea Nueva de Ebro, 800km Javier Txus de Barcelona, 760km Irun Caminada del Norte Jacobo Estévez Camino del Norte por la costa desde Gijón 400 km Tour d’Europe à vélo, 22.000km à parcourir, 1560km El puerto de Santa Maria, Cadiz, 280km

Santiago de Compostela : La Vuelta in the Age of Cathedrals It is said that the tomb of Saint James the Great, one of Jesus’ twelve disciples, is located within the Santiago de Compostela cathedral, and it’s at the foot of this very cathedral that La Vuelta 2021 will finish on September 5th. Following the discovery of the apostle’s relics at the beginning of the 9th century, Santiago de Compostela became the site of one of the three most popular Christian pilgrimages, after Jerusalem and Rome. Whether or not the presence of this famous apostle’s remains is legend or truth (and it is still debated by historians today), the famous Saint James Way has certainly never seen so many visitors. Every pilgrim who finishes their odyssey to Santiago de Compostela is invited to earn a compostela. The pilgrim’s certificate is reserved for those who journey at least 100 km to reach the city on foot or on horseback, or 200 km for cyclists, and for those who duly get their pilgrim’s passport stamped twice per day. In 2018, more than 327,000 people walked through the doors of the office in charge of distributing the certificate, more than 6% of them were cyclists. Pilgrims on bikes are more and more common on the routes that lead to Santiago de Compostela, with its guarantee of a maiden voyage like no other, for those proficient enough in bike-packing. It’s on this famous trail from France that we shared a one-day ride with other cyclists heading for Santiago. ‘Trail’ implies the necessity of equipment that can handle the terrain. Gravel bikes are ideal mounts for this type of route, which alternates between road and path. Of course, a pilgrimage is not a trek like any another. For most people who undertake the journey, walking is active meditation, and the final destination is a spiritual quest. Here, cyclists are shoulder to shoulder with walkers – we alternate between road and path during the sinuous parts so that we don’t disrupt the walkers’ peace. Witnessing the sheer enthusiasm of these pilgrims, we take less and less notice of the fact that we’re riding in such a special place. No unnecessary noise, just the rustling of our tyres on the leaves and the ground, and we whisper, as though infused with the power of this place. We dedicated this 50 km outing to discovering a mythical place and meeting fellow cyclists drawn to this extraordinary adventure. Travelling through the old town and arriving at the bottom of the huge 1,000-year-old cathedral, we can understand why it is such a unique site to visit. The sight of runners finishing the Spanish circuit at the doors of the cathedral, in a closely fought time trail, almost looks like an anachronism. When unveiling the route of La Vuelta, the director of the race exclaimed: ‘People say that any place is a good place to start the Camino de Santiago, but few places can match the beauty of Burgos cathedral, the starting point of the long route planned for La Vuelta’s 76th edition. 21 stages. From Burgos to Santiago. From cathedral to cathedral.' Further Riding It's Ventoux Time When the organisers announced that the Ventoux would be climbed twice in the Tour de France 2021 edition, it was certain that July 7th was going to be a historic day. VIEW MORE Dancing on a Volcano Mauna Kea is the highest point in the state of Hawai’i, with its peak towering at 4,207.3 m above sea level. It is often blanketed with snow and always protruding above the clouds. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE 7 majors Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change through the Southern Alps in both France and Italy. VIEW MORE

Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A Monument. If a pantheon of off-road routes that can compete with the five famous ‘monuments’ of modern cycling still doesn’t exist, for sure the Torino-Nice Rally could claim the title. And that’s exactly what scares us. But instead of worrying that we won’t make it, Sophie and I are all but certain we’re worthy of the monolith that stands before us. This keeps our minds busy as we tackle the approach along the winding roads of the Valle di Lanzo. We leave Turin unharmed. A coffee – ameretto, a few warm-up challenges to settle us into the ride and it’s here, in the valley, that the ‘Turin-Nice’ takes hold. Without warning, just as a huge storm drenches us with the simplicity of a hello, the route heads left, and our GPS shows 18% after only a few dozen metres. The Colle del Colombardo is not especially famous, for one good reason: it very quickly runs out of asphalt. However, it’s our doorway to a one-week adventure that will take guts. We spend an epic afternoon alternating between a slow pace and ‘hike-a-bike’ underneath a rumbling not-too-distant storm. The tone is set. We don’t go for the challenge as an end goal in itself: we enjoy the effort and we understand wholeheartedly that big moments have to be earned. However, we rarely climb for the simple pleasure of the act. The first reward we earn is a simple one: a little cairn about 50cm high along the ridgeway which veers to the right after Colombardo, and which takes us up to 2,100m. No signs, no souvenirs, just nature in its rawest form, that we alone are here to appreciate. For us the Torino-Nice Rally is broken up into an impressive series of triptychs. A period of high intensity which pushes us out of our comfort zone, a reward which exceeds that of a box simply ticked and which allows us to survey the land at high altitude, and then long periods of decompression, zigzagging, for the most part, back to the valley. Playing this little game, we take on the northern side of the formidable Colle delle Finestre, before turning off towards Assietta, the col, then the road, for two unimaginable hours on the roof of Europe. It’s incredible what a simple bike can offer you. We didn’t get the chance to properly prepare ourselves, even though we’d seen photos from those that came here before us. We might not have totally believed them before coming, and yet, it’s true. The Torino-Nice Rally, as a route and as a trial, is definitely made for off-road biking and bikepacking, be it gravel or mountain biking. It offers a long and vivid homage to the great road routes that populate the central Alps. We go from Montgenèvre to Izoard, to Agnel (the highest point of the trip) and on to Sampeyre in two days. The final descent takes us down an alternative path from the official route along the Vallon d’Elva road, now closed to cars. It’s a tiny, battered road with worn-out gates on which we advance carefully, with repeated stops. But we don’t grumble, we are too busy in our disbelief that such a wondrous place exists. The Val Maira fireflies welcome us with open arms to this enchanting paradise for our night outside. We wake up to the day we had struggled to plan when doing our itinerary, a day we’ve feared since the start. The fourth day’s climb takes us four hours, we push our bikes for most of it. We are overtaken by hikers armed with trekking poles, who also struggle to haul themselves up this steep, rocky hill. It’s difficult to know if they think we’re heroes or just crazy, but we both agree that there’s a thin line between the two. Neither Sophie nor I feel our mental strength flag though, much to our surprise. I am totally convinced that, at this stage, our subconscious has blind faith in this route we’ve been following for 300 km now. Whatever good it does! Now for what people call “Little Peru”, and not for nothing. This Strada Della Gardetta, sitting beside a refuge of the same name (visibly popular) will certainly be the most epic moment our of expedition. A plateau of alpine pasture, almost free of human activity, undulates between 2300 et 2500m high. It’s mineral, unstable and it reveals itself bit by bit as we go along a demanding trail, but one without any technical difficulties. It’s not just the beauty. The majesty of this place really makes our heads spin. It takes the whole afternoon for it to feel real. The climb to Tende, taking us along the roadway from Italy, heads through a part of the Via del Sale, and is our ticket back to France. A new descent opens up before us and it’s also the reason we’re here: the route is now called ‘Komoot Torino-Nice Rally’ and it’s our mission to test out some of its new stretches, made necessary by the Storm Alex floods in the valley of la Roya. Tende, a magnificent town that looks like the edge of the world, and dormant due to its recent flood damage, comes into view as we follow the hairpin bend of this breathtaking route with care. The region seems to be under a veil, waiting. Its wounds are open, we can feel them. We have to turn back during our descent to Breil-sur-Roya, which forces us to take the train towards the col of Turini, the true doorway to the Nice region, via the historic road of la Maglia (25km, mostly on gravel). A storm picks up 2km from the top of Authion, right above the col. Everything in this moment is epic. A hot chocolate, a descent down to the climb (yes, it’s possible!) and a biker hotel later on. It’s also decided that we’ll return to Nice via the road. Apart from the buildup of fatigue, there is something else at play: is it possible to have ‘over liked’ what we’ve experienced? Should we have ended this adventure early due to Stendhal syndrome? 11:05 in the morning, Tuesday 20th July, Café du Cycliste, Nice port. We have just finished one of the most mythical gravel routes in the whole of Europe. Further Riding 7 majors Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000m of elevation change. VIEW MORE Back to Brittany Bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? VIEW MORE Riding with Purpose #2 Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown. VIEW MORE Northcape 4000 Sophie Gateau rides thousands of kilometers north to avoid rabid dogs and make friends with reindeers in her latest Audax adventure. VIEW MORE

Coins Cachés. Salzburgerland If you are heading to Salzburg with your bike, there are so many amazing routes to explore. Whether you are looking for a steep satisfying climb with awesome scenery or a gentle Sunday ride around some of the most beautiful lakes in Germany and Austria, the Bavarian Alps have so much to offer, both on and off road. We have put together a collection of rides which include classics, like The Gaisberg Climb, the homemountain of Salzburg, and the Rossfeldroute, one of the most stunning mountain roads of Bavaria but also some routes that are less well known but are favourites of ours or are perfect for an after work ride as the sunsets. The Rossfeldroute ROUTE The Rossfeld summit is 1560m above sea level and is definitely not an easy undertaking for beginners. Our route started in Salzburg at 450m and led us towards Berchtesgaden to the village of Oberau and we chose the southern ascent. By the time we reached the toll station on the Panoramic Road we had already climbed 600m. We decided to ride up at the end of the day at sunset, as there is much less traffic in the evening. For the first few kilometres the road winds through the forest but the higher you climb, the more beautiful the view becomes. On the last part of the Panoramic Road, you are constantly rewarded with views of the Bavarian Alps foothills and at the highest point of the ride, you have a view of Salzburg. We descended over 1000 metres in to Hallein, where you can treat yourself to an ice cream or head straight home along the Salzachradweg. This route is challenging but very scenic, especially at sunset when the light and atmosphere are at their best. The Lakes of Flachgau OFF-ROAD The Trumer Lakes; Mattsee, Obertrumer See and Grabensee, lie in the middle of the idyllic Flachgau region. Our route took us along the Salzach river first and in order to escape the city traffic, we stuck exclusively to cycle paths. But as we got further north, our surroundings became more beautiful and peaceful, and we left the stressful city bustle behind. We mainly rode on small roads or dirt tracks, so this route is perfect for gravel lovers. Flachgau’s landscape consists of rolling hills and pastures of grazing cows with beautiful alpine foothills behind. We cycled around Obertrumer See and then along the cycle path towards Seekirchen am Wallersee. Here you can take a break either at the lake or in one of the many small cafés. For those who are motivated, Grabensee can also be included as the route is not particularly demanding, more of a leisurely Sunday ride. The Gaisberg Climb ROUTE Gaisberg is the local mountain of Salzburg and the summit is 1287m above sea level. The classic route leads through the city in the direction of Fuschl. The start of the Gaisberg road is in Guggenthal and it is about 9km to the top. The first stage to the Zistel-Alm is not particularly steep and has a wonderful view of the city. From here, it is only 3km to the summit, but it gets much steeper.At the summit, you are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the whole Salzburg region, especially at sunset. The way back is simple - either go back down the same road or you can head back towards Elsbethen. For those who still have some energy left, you can continue towards the Wiesthaler reservoir to see its spectacular dam. From here the trail leads back towards Hallein along the Salzach river, although this path is only suitable for gravel bikes. Hintersee ROUTE From Salzburg, this route crosses the border to Germany at Grossgmain and heads to the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. There, we climbed uphill through the forest to Hallthurm. After only a few flat kilometres, we turned off at Winkl towards Bischofswiesen and Loipl, where another steep climb awaited. The gradient reached 20% at points but eventually flattened off as we reached the summit. The road is normally not very busy and shows Bavaria from its most beautiful side. After the descent, we reached Hintersee, a quiet and idyllic mountain lake in the Berchtesgadener district. Here, you can stop for a bite to eat or simply taking a short break by the lake. We circled the lake and headed back towards Austria, passing through the villages of Ramsau and Berchtesgaden. Back over the border, we arrived in Grödig, where we cycled along the Moosstrasse, the longest street in Salzburg, back into the city. This route was a recent discovery for us and is now one of our favourites. Round the Grossgmainberg ROUTE The loop around the Grossgmainberg is one of our favourite "after-work" routes. It is easy, quick and incredibly beautiful. The route leads directly through Salzburg along the Salzach and then along the Almkanal, in the direction of Fürstenbrunn. If you're lucky, you'll meet a few surfers here on the "wave". If you ride in the evening, you will have the most beautiful light. The 22% climb from the Fürstenbrunn side is a tough but short one. In total, this route covers 250m elevation over about 33km but you can make the route longer or shorter as you wish. The descent is made up of smooth and flowing bends. Once you reach the bottom, you are on the cycle path across the Walser Feld back towards Salzburg. Here, I often make a short detour to the Mönchsberg - the road is very steep, but you get a wonderful view of Salzburg. You have to carry your bike to reach the bottom which adds something quite special to the ride. LES COINS CACHÉS COINS CACHÉS. JULIJSKE ALPE A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. PAYS DE GALLES God's country explored on two wheels. Rides between two coasts, designed to explore routes and roads less ridden. Through the valleys and over the hills. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. ARIÈGE Explore more, find hidden corners and lesser known places. The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. SKÅNE The route possibilities are almost endless but the main attraction is the enormous network of gravel roads. Across gentle hills, through stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and with the sea on three sides. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. KESKI-SUOMI There's off the beaten track and then there's really off the beaten track. Central Finland has a network of routes and trails that could have been designed with gravel in mind. And in a way they were. VIEW MORE

7 majors In the middle of a very unusual summer, my two companions, Adrienne and Geraldine, and I decided to take on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking as the highlight of a season which never really started. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change through the Southern Alps in both France and Italy. The 7 Cols are Izoard, Agnel, Sampeyre, Fauniera, Lombarde, Bonette and Vars and we are hoping to complete the tour in 3 days, taking plenty of photos along the way. Feeling invirgorated, Adrienne and I are very determined, especially with Geraldine as our guide. We set out to the Izoard early on Saturday morning and we are the only ones on the road. At the top, we treat ourselves to a luxurious 2-hour refreshment break while we are waiting for Geraldine. Once we are reunited, we head for the top of the Col d’Agnel and cross over the border into Italy late in the afternoon. Our plan was to head down to the small town of Sampeyre to find something to eat and a camping spot. Unfortunately, we had no idea about public holidays in Italy and we quickly realise that August 15th is national holiday and every restaurant has been reserved for weeks. Therefore, our options are limited so we settle for sandwiches and fries from a roadside café. As the whole country celebrates, we fall asleep in front of a barn in the Col de Sampeyre, with the muffled sounds of the orchestra at the village dance below. On the agenda for day 2, we have the majority of the Col de Sampeyre and the Col de la Fauniera. Both of these Italians Cols are not main routes and the road itself, in bad condition in places, climbs into a forest of wild flowers. La Fauniera is a treacherous rollarcoater disguised as a beautiful col with aggressive gradients. I am surprised to find that each col is very different from the next, one leading us through rolling pastures, the next through sharp rocks. That evening, we were forced to stop in Delmonte so we could sleep under an awning to shelter from the rain. Therefore, on the last day we had 3 cols and 155 kms to cover. We set our alarms for 3.30am. The climb up the Col de la Lombarde in total silence is magical, as is watching the sunrise over the mountains. We return into France and head for the top of La Bonette, the highest road in Europe at 2802m. Adrienne and I decide, without consulting each other, that in order to successfully climb up the 26.7km Col, we would break every 5km at the percentage sign. Motorcycles and cars, who go up much too fast, are insulted by taking on us marmots, and the time passes much faster. The descent is once again breathtakingly beautiful to Jausiers, the last town and for some food. We were warned that even though the Col de Vars was the shortest climb, it is the most difficult. It doesn’t look that bad to us until the last few kilometres which are on a 9% gradient. Triumphantly, we finish climbing in the dark accompanied by nothing but the barking of the herding dogs echoing in the distance. We take one last photo in total darkness. Then we wrap up as warm as we can with everything we have in our saddlebags and start the last descent to Gillestre only guided by our lights. Mission accomplished. Further Riding Back to Brittany Bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? READ MORE Riding With Purpose #2. Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown. READ MORE Bikepacking Guide – Getting Started. Sophie Gateau shares her insights and experience on getting started in the adventure cycling world. READ MORE North Cape 4000 Sophie Gateau rides thousands of kilometers north to avoid rabid dogs and make friends with reindeers in her latest Audax adventure. READ MORE Download the GPX file from Strava here.

Mauna Kea: Dancing on a Volcano Let the mountain speak and it will tell you of its fiery origin in the pacific and its kinship with the natives. It will show you the window to the universe. Mauna Kea is the highest point in the state of Hawai’i, with its peak towering at 13,803 ft. (4,207.3 m) above sea level. Its literal translation is the White Mountain because the summit, always protruding above the clouds, is often blanketed with snow. Native Hawaiians believe this place is sacred, as it is the home of Poli’ahu, the Goddess of Snow. In more recent times, the top is home to 13 telescopes piercing through the outer edges of the observable universe. In either case, it’s a marvel to look at from the coastal towns surrounding it and a daunting prospect for those who choose to summit. In 1964, a road was built to the top of Mauna Kea, conveniently called Mauna Kea Summit Road. This provided “easier” access to the top which once took a day or more of grueling hikes to reach. Easy, I say, for the motorized vehicle with four wheel drive capability. Not so much for the human-powered two-wheeled bicycle. I was set to find out. There was 14 miles (22km) and 7,125 ft. (2,171 m) that stood between where I had parked the rental car and the 13 telescopes sitting high above the clouds - all I had to do was pedal. It was still very early in the morning and the weather looked promising - clear skies and a cool 20 C. Just a few days prior the access road was closed due to unexpected snow above 9,000 ft (2743 m). I was hoping this wouldn’t be the case as I foolishly did not check the weather forecast the night before. The first 6 miles (9.5 km) to the visitor center went smoothly. It was steep, but not too steep, as I was rarely out of my saddle - I often gauge the steepness of the road this way. The stop at the visitor center was mandatory. You must check in with the park ranger by filling out an identification card. Name: That’s easy. Destination: The top (of course), but that’s easier said than done. Time of arrival: 8:30 am. Estimated time to finish: To be determined depending on how my legs and lungs feel. Four miles dirt and four miles paved-- that was all that was left to summit. This was where the ride really began for me. Because of its steepness and the moonlike surface of the next six kilometers most switch to a mountain bike to do this section. I, however, did not have the luxury of a support vehicle with an extra bicycle in tow. I was hoping that my Firefly all-road bike equipped with Rene Herse 38mm knobbies and 34t cassette would suffice for the challenge. As an extra precaution, I did wear mountain bike shoes since I was expecting to walk some sections. The dirt road was as steep and loose as I had read in numerous blogs, so I did walk a fair bit, but I didn't mind. At this point, I had completely cleared the clouds and it was a stunning, almost surreal, vista. When the dirt section finally ended, I thought I'd be relieved to be back on smooth pavement for the final 4 miles to the summit. However, although the roads were in pristine condition, I was greeted with sustained grades of 18-20%! I was forced out of my saddle for long stretches and had to "paperboy" my way across the road to find some slight relief from the extreme gradient. Feeling tired and almost defeated, I somehow found a last wind as soon as I saw the sight of the telescopes shortly ahead. I made it! I’ve ridden up a fair number of behemoth mountains-- ones that are even higher (15,500 ft / 4,724.4 m in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca) in fact - but I never felt like I was riding in the heavens. I now see why Native Hawaiians regard Mauna Kea as a sacred place. It really is something special, and I feel honored to have pedaled up it. Further riding Bikepacking in the Lone Star State Endless gravel trails, purple posts, rising temperatures and lots and lots of sunscreen. READ MORE True Grit #5 I live, work, and play in San Francisco, California; and am always in motion, be it cycling, mountaineering, or dancing READ MORE True Grit #6 A gravel bike is the perfect way to explore the rural heart of Switzerland. I love clearing my mind by riding in nature where it is just my surroundings, my bike and me. READ MORE Coins Cachés Julijske Alpe. A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. READ MORE

It's Ventoux time When the organisers announced that in this 2021 edition the Ventoux would be climbed, not only once but twice within the same stage, any and every one who is a fan of this outstanding race marked their calendars. July 7th was going to be a historic day and a cycling festival not to be missed. We were also swept up in the frenzy and thought we should head to the heart of Provence for a few days to enjoy a leg feast and the incredible sights. In July, Provence is well known for its never-ending lavender fields, all blooming and adding prettiness to this already photogenic landscape which clearly doesn't need more beauty. On the east side of Ventoux the fields have a familiar hue: there isn’t just a hint of lavender at this time of year, it’s everywhere you look. We hopped onto our bikes at 6.30am to avoid the suffocating heat: the temperatures can reach as high as 35°C. As we start riding the tiny road of the col d’Aulan, we can feel the freshness of a new dawn, the silence of early morning and the rising sun illuminating the blooming fields. It gives us a desire for endless riding. We have plotted a 70km route through a variety of places and atmospheres. Riding through the medieval town of Montbrun-les-Bains, we take a moment there inside the walls of the narrow paved streets: time for a sip of coffee in the shade of a local bar. We are definitely not the only ones cycling here on the roads, this region is obviously a main destination for cycling in France. There is a certain thrill in the air, some excitement attracting more cyclists than usual because of the event about to start tomorrow when the Tour de France will be tackling the roads of the Giant of Provence. To be able to see the riders, you will have to earn it. There is only one way to see them twice, which is all the way up to the top of Ventoux, and only cyclists will be allowed on any of the three roads leading up there. It’s no wonder that the groups we meet are keen to start chatting, to take the time to enjoy living and cycling: tomorrow will be another story, especially because the weather forecast will probably take us to another kind of atmosphere… We decide for a little detour through Brantes, climbing up to this village offers us breathtaking views on the Ventoux, rocky switchbacks through the old stone houses making it worth the few added kilometres, let alone the honey and caramel crêpes from Suzette. We only have a small part of our loop left to ride but it feels so good to be here, we don’t really want to ride back. We are already thinking about playing pétanque in the shade of willow trees and sipping an apérol on a terrace, making sure we don’t drink too much considering what awaits us tomorrow. FURTHER RIDING THE WHITE VENTOUX Climbing the infamous 'Bald Mountian' is tough in the best conditions. Sprinkle some snow and add some cold and the challenge becomes even more extreme. VIEW MORE MONT VENTOUX: NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE #6 When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Ça peak There is always a way to escape the madding crowds, in this case it's gravel. Finding fun on Mont Ventoux's G-Side. VIEW MORE RIDE OF THE MONTH : JUNE From the sea to the mountains and back again, mixing up the parcours of Stages One and Two of this year’s Tour de France to take in Col de Turini and Col d’Eze. VIEW MORE Download the GPX file from Strava here.

Coins Cachés. Julijske Alpe Slovenia is a true cycling jewel on the crossing of the Alps, Adriatic coast, Pannonic flats and the Dinaric mountains. This makes for a crazy amount of diverse landscapes of rolling hills filled with forests, vineyards, castles and churches, high mountains filled with beautiful valleys, lakes and rivers, seaside with nice cliffs, beaches and mediterranean towns, and some nice flats with thermal pools emerging in the shade of trees and caves. The very north-west corner of the country is covered by the Julian Alps, the highest and most spectacular mountain range in Slovenia with Mt Triglav as its highest peak and the most important symbol of our small nation. It is the place of our most beautiful valleys, pastures, lakes, rivers and just about everything that you might think of when you think about mountains. The majority of these mountains is a part of Triglav National park, the only national park in Slovenia. And while we fully support all attempts of preserving the nature as much as possible, there is one downside to that: no cycling allowed on mountain trails! So we took this limitation as a challenge and tried to come up with the most scenic and challenging routes, on and off road, that you can take and see almost all the best sights the Julian Alps have to offer (and there is no small amount of those either)! Pokljuka plateau OFF-ROAD Pokljuka is a high forested karst plateau in Slovenia, mostly known for its vast spruce and fir forests, swamps and idyllic pastures. It is also a main starting point for hikers attempting the ascent on Mt Triglav and other nearby mountain peaks. In winter it transforms into a ski running paradise and holds a biathlon World Cup race annually. This route starts from the shore of Slovenia`s biggest mountain lake Bohinj and follows the dirt road up to the Uskovnica pasture. The ascent offers some nice views and after only a few kilometres you reach the first wooden huts that fill the meadows surrounded by forests overlooking the mountains. What we love most about these pastures are the cows grazing the grass, gently ringing their bells to create that idyllic pasture atmosphere. The dirt road then ascends further through the forest onto a smaller, but incredibly scenic pasture Zajamniki. Stop as you reach the highest point overlooking the whole Bohinj mountains, the highest peaks of the Julian Alps and down to Bohinj lake. It is the most spectacular and breathtaking sight you can find on Pokljuka! The remainder of the route descends through forests, past wooden huts and villages, until the asphalt road takes you through the valley all the way back to the Bohinj lake, where you can relax and cool down with an after-bike swim! Soriška planina OFF-ROAD Soriška planina is a range of hills stretching from the Sorica pass (Soriško sedlo), a road cycling pass which you can conquer from three different directions. Bohinjska Bistrica is the first (asphalt) part of this route, but you can also skip it by taking the bus to the top, where the real fun begins! We are taking the easy dirt road towards the Bača saddle, already enjoying the views of Julian Alps. Reaching the Bača saddle is like emerging on the other side of the world, overlooking the mountain valleys to the South and being hit by the warmer air coming up from the Adriatic sea. The trail becomes steep and narrow as it heads East through the forest, but soon becomes easier. The views become increasingly impressive as you reach the small grassy saddle with a big military fort turned into a pasture housing dozens of sheep. From here, it is worth making a small detour to the peak called Možic, where you will be able to enjoy the best view of the Bohinj valley and the Julian Alps. You can then either follow the rocky road going down the ski slopes to the Sorica saddle or opt for an amazing single-track descent to the South, to the village of Podbrdo, where you can catch a train going back to Bohinjska Bistrica. It is a great experience riding the only mountain train tunnel in Slovenia, however, the curvy, narrow and steep trail is only suitable for experienced mountain bikers. Tromeja OFF-ROAD Tromeja translates to tri-border and is the point where the borders of Slovenia, Italy and Austria meet. You can start this route anywhere along the cycling path between Kranjska Gora and Rateče (we recommend the car park in Rateče adjacent to the cycling path). You will first tackle the asphalt ascent from Podkoren to the Koren saddle on the border with Austria. After a kilometre of ascending you will need to stop for pictures from a look-out point that overlooks the Podkoren village, the Vitranc ski piste and the beautiful mountain ranges that you will enjoy on the whole of this ride. The route soon takes a turn onto a dirt road and you will immediately enjoy the peace and quiet as you ride along the pastures and through the forest with amazing views of the mountains almost the entire way. The last few kilometres become steeper but the look-out points will make you stop and forget about the effort. When you reach the tri-border point on the top, you can literally cross from Slovenia to Austria to Italy and back in a matter of seconds, but the most amazing thing is the view of almost the whole of the Julian Alps all the way to Italy and the majestic mountains and lakes in Austria. Take your time to relax on the meadows or have lunch at the hut on the Austrian side before you enjoy the thrilling descent down to Rateče. East Julian Alps ultimate ROUTE This first road cycling route will take you from Bohinj lake, along the river Sava Bohinjka under the high walls embracing the valley until you reach lake Bled. Take your time to enjoy one of the most famous and beautiful lakes in Europe, if possible with a slice of the famous dessert called Kremšnita. The route takes you almost all the way around the lake, behind the castle, through villages and descends to join the Sava Dolinka river in the industrial town of Jesenice. Here you follow the path towards Kranjska Gora until Mojstrana, another beautiful village at the foot of the mountains. Cross into the valley of the Radovna river, a very popular route among cyclists which is almost traffic-free. Stop and have a snack or take a swim in the mesmerizing blue waters of lake Kreda. Cycling in Radovna valley passes in a heartbeat and you will find yourself back high above Bled before you know it. If you're feeling tired, descend down to the lake and follow the same route back to the start. Otherwise, it is time to tackle the climb to the Pokljuka plateau. This infamous climb is where Pogačar beat Roglič in the national time trial championship for the first time in 2020 (forecasting the events of the Tour de France just a month later)! It is not for the weak, but it is a beautiful climb and takes you to the stunning forests of Pokljuka plateau and even more mountain views. The long ascent rewards you with an even longer and far more enjoyable descent through forests and pastures all the way to the starting point at Bohinj lake. West Julian Alps ultimate ROUTE This is the longest and hardest route in this collection, but it also takes you to some of the most amazing roads and sights Slovenia has to offer. A short stop at the beautiful lake Jasna is a must, but then it is time to tackle the most famous mountain road pass in Slovenia, Vršič. The 25 switchbacks on each side with constant views of the mountain ridges everywhere around will take your breath away (as will the incline). On the other side is the Trenta Valley and you can stop frequently along the glorious emerald river, Soča. At the old military fort Kluže you will start the main climb of the day through the beautiful village of Log pod Mangartom, up to Predel pass, steering right just before the top, only to climb further on to the Mangart saddle. The Mangart saddle road takes you up 2050m of elevation at the foot of Mt Mangart. Don't forget your bike lights as you will cycle through tunnels, and prepare yourself for the most thrilling ascent of your life which will reward you with some of the best views you can reach on an asphalt road in Slovenia. You then descend and cross over the Predel pass to Italy and the Lago del Predil. From there, follow the fast descending road to Tarvisio where we recommend an espresso to add a bit of Italian flare to your ride and join the cycling path at the railway station that will take you all the way back to your starting point. Before you really finish, we included two detours you simply cannot miss! The first one are the Fusine lakes, amazingly beautiful bodies of water overlooking the Mangart saddle you just descended from. The other is the Tamar valley with the Nordic centre of Planica, where world ski jumping records have been set since the 1930s. FOR LES COINS CACHÉS Coins Cachés. Pays de Galles God's country explored on two wheels. Rides between two coasts, designed to explore routes and roads less ridden. Through the valleys and over the hills. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Ariège Explore more, find hidden corners and lesser known places. The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Skåne Across gentle hills, through stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and with the sea on three sides. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Keski-Suomi There's off the beaten track and then there's really off the beaten track. Central Finland has a network of routes and trails that could have been designed with gravel in mind. And in a way they were. READ MORE Slow-vénia More gravel, less kilometers, hugging sheep and hiking bikes, reading paper maps underwater. These are the lessons from Slow-Vénia by PCR Gravier READ MORE Gravel Riding in Texas Bikepacking in the Lone Star State means endless gravel trails, purple posts, rising temperatures and lots and lots of sunscreen. READ MORE