A Scandinavian Voyage | GUILLAUME NÉRY Another summer, another riding adventure for our Caravan athlete Guillaume Néry, world-champion free-diver and lifelong cyclist. As is becoming tradition for this resident of the Côte d’Azur, Néry and his partner Audrey, along with their dear friend Fouad, set off on a month-long bikepacking trip; this time through Scandinavia, happily equipped from head to toe by Café du Cycliste. As he describes in his recent Transmission profile Néry’s passion for cycling and all that comes with it has evolved over time. No longer competing as a freediver, no longer training as he did; the bicycle is now a tool for exploration with friends, diving deeper into new territories on two wheels. This latest story from Néry and co. documents a bike trip in July 2023 and a journey through the Scandinavian countries of Denmark, Sweden and Norway. This time they took bikes and luggage to Copenhagen (rather than rolling out of the front door in Nice). Why Scandinavia? Last year, after their trip to Greece and Albania, they were suffering from the heat. So, they set themselves the goal of cycling in cooler climates in 2023, a wise choice for 2023 and a stark contrast to the Balkans last time out. Here is a day-by-day account of the voyage from Copenhagen to Åndalsnes: Day 1 - Copenhagen (Denmark) to Allerum (Sweden) - 60 km Arrived in Copenhagen at 2am. Copenhagen is the cycling capital of the world it seems… everyone is on a bike. The warm welcome from Swedish friends, despite hypoglycaemia due to overloaded bikes, adds warmth (the bikes weigh on average 40kgs). Day 2 - Allerum - Bastad - 78 km The day begins with fruit picking in a garden, then a gentle bike ride with friends. Green and wooded paths provide a calming contrast to the bustling Côte d’Azur. After camping at the water's edge with newly purchased tents, they enjoy a bath and a sunset before starting the adventure. Day 3 - Bastad to Falkenberg - 82 km The sun sets at 11 pm and rises at 4:30 am, so it's very hot by 7 am. Today, nothing special to say. A delicious lunch of fish toast by the sea. Day 4 - Falkenberg to Gothenburg – 122km They meet other travellers by bike, including a French family with children aged 13, 10 and 6! The forecasted rain is coming, their last minute purchases (pants and shoe covers) are welcome. Day 5 - Day off in Gothenburg Guillaume's birthday cake of 41 candles on herring toast. Bonus: a free Coldplay concert… After looking at the price of the few remaining tickets, they enjoyed the concert outside in the rain. Day 6 - Gothenburg to Säckebäck - 70 km Rain again and again. The city is crowded with Coldplay fans. Guillaume has to repair his phone. Departure delayed at 2 pm. Day 7 - Säckebäck to Röe - 73km Return of the sun. Crossing the island of Orust (Sweden’s third largest ) before taking a small boat to reach another small island, then another. Plundering of a fishing boat by a hungry gull entertains. Lots of raspberries on offer. Day 8 - Röe to Strömstad - 92km More hills than the previous days, not to displease Audrey who learned to climb as a dancer. A stop in a small fishing village where Guillaume buys his favourite Swedish pastry, a kind of cardamom brioche. Shelter tonight is required at all costs because the rain is coming. Day 9 - Strömstad (Sweden) to Barkåker (Norway) - 33 km A ferry at noon takes them to Norway. Once in Norway, the flat terrain gives way to big peaks and long climbs, with the pouring rain returning. 33km travelled, but the impression of having done double that. Short break in the only café in town. The owners, Maria and Arif, warmly invite them to spend the night, to use the shower and coffee machine, much to Fouad's delight. This is what bikepacking can reveal in humanity: gentleness and generosity. Day 10 - Barkåker to Oslo - 108km A bit of sun at the start before three hours of pedalling under heavy downpours Another 50km before reaching Oslo, and for the first time on the trip, they climb the first pass (‘not quite the Tourmalet’). Return of the sun and a touch of hypoglycaemia (treated by a packet of potato crisps). Days 11 and 12 - Rest days in Oslo A visit to the food courts with Polish, Moroccan and Italian specialties plus the usual pastries with cinnamon and cardamon. Fouad buys two pairs of glasses, given that he is on a pattern of losing one pair per week. Guillaume is short-sighted but refuses to wear his glasses in public ensuring otherworldly facial distortion each time he wants to read something in the distance. Day 13 - Gol to Geilo - 61km Take the first train at 6:26 am, heading to the mountainous area of the country to see the fjords. Audrey has progressed with the climbs. Fouad, with his artificial hip (he was injured), is incredibly fit, perhaps doped with coffee (he is known to drink up to twelve a day). Day 14 - Geilo to Tunga 39 km Rain every day, everything must be protected which involves extra preparation. They leave the roads crowded with cars (especially Tesla’s, Guillaume's new hobby being counting them). Norway is much steeper, windier and rainier than its neighbour Sweden. In the evening, they eat reindeer (prepared by Fouad) on toast. Day 15 - Tunga to Myrdal - 52km Return of the sun. Splendid landscape. The next 70km will be on the country's legendary gravel track, the Rallervegen. Audrey's birthday, 35 candles blown out on a mini chocolate muffin. They come across an 80-year-old grandmother who is pedalling on the same track, without electrical assistance. At the last minute, as the rain falls, a small mountain hotel appears around a bend. Audrey's favourite gift. Day 16 - Myrdal to Lekanger - 43 km Big breakfast to gain strength. Direction Flåm, the longest (204km) and deepest (1308m) Fjords in the world. Full of tourists. They take the ferry. Day 17 - Fardal to Askvoll - 55km Fouad returns to Nice, only Guillaume and Audrey remain. They follow the route of Eurovélo 1 which remains as close as possible to the western seaboard of Norway. There are islands, peninsulas, bays, fjords, relief, waterfalls, forests. A ferry takes them to another island. Day 18 - Askvoll to Førde - 68 km Wake up with a rainbow. Splendid landscapes on the island, not crowded (except for a few sheep). Crossing 1000km. Dantesque rain (lightning, storms, etc.). Elevation. A warm night in a small apartment in Førde. Day 19 - Day off in Førde Cooking, laundry, rest, reading and three episodes of the ‘Tour de France’ Netflix series.Day 20 - Førde to Bremangerlandet - 78km Meeting with two itinerant cyclists. 6km climb at 10% average, a route worthy of the highest Alpine passes (less than 1000m). Objective: arrive at the ferry before 7:55 p.m. Arrival at 7:45 p.m. after a sprint.Day 21 - Bremangerlandet to Almenningen - 30 km Sleep in. Visit the small island of Bremangerlandet, a favourite. The atmosphere of a Breton island with Alpine reliefs. Then want to hang out in Måløy, a small fishing town. Night in an exceptional camp, a small shelter in the heart of a fjord, view of the mountain. A fisherman offers them a mackerel. Day 22 - Almenningen to Bjørkedal - 56 km Tiredeness. Difficult to find a place to sleep for the next two nights, as the place is so deserted in this part of Norway. Attacking the mountains, gravel roads at 20% with 50kg bikes, the task is tough. Alpine vegetation even though they are only 400m above sea level. Cows, raspberries. Accommodation is a converted 400-year-old wooden house. Room with lake view.Day 23 - Day off in Bjørkedal Festival of good healthy food. Reading and walking near the lake. Aperitif in the sun on the terrace.Day 24 - Bjørkedal to Leknes - 46 km Nothing special. Still rain. Day 25 - Leknes to Liabygda - 60km Night spent under a ferry house/hut. Wake up with a splendid view of Fjords. They discover a swimming spot. A break is necessary for a bath and a few breath-holds. After coffee and shrimp sandwiches a magical route in an unreal landscape, probably the most beautiful place Guillaume has ever cycled alongside the Col d'Aubisque. Return of the rain. Another ferry and another shelter. Day 26 - Åndalsnes Last day on the bike involves a series of downhill tunnels, bustling with trucks. Hairy. Then on to the Trollstigen, a legendary road in the mountains, but closed due to falling rocks. After a 32 km climb, they finally reach the summit in the rain. A stop at the souvenir shop on the way reveals the ‘Troll’ aspect of the region. Despite their wait and soaked clothes, the road finally reopened around 7 pm. Their adventure ends in Åndalsnes under the rain and a rainbow, mixing the sadness of the end with the joy of memories. READ MORE No Direction Home : Bike-packing in the Balkans. Freediving champion and Caravan athlete Guillaume Néry saddled up with his partner to ride from southern Greece towards their home in Nice. 1% for the Planet - Alexia Barrier. We spoke to our Caravan ambassador and professional sailor Alexia Barrier about her 4myplanet enterprise and how Café du Cycliste will be contributing to her future projects through 1% for the Planet. TRANSMISSION – GUILLAUME NERY. Cycling is a gift. From when you are first taught to push the pedals down the street, to crossing the finish line with your arms raised in thanks. Guillaume Néry: Diving in at the Café. It took five magical minutes to understand the dimension of free-diving champion and Caravan member, Guillaume Néry. To watch him sit and hold his breath for five minutes was a drop in the ocean on the way to understanding what’s required in this super-human sport.