Double track diaries Andy Cox caught our attention on Instagram with photos of remote gravel roads that lived up to his @doubletrackfanatic name tag. As we followed with interest, added to the double-tracks were the high mountain vistas from across the Vosges, the Jura mountains and eventually the Alps. Following his nose led Andy inevitably to Café du Cycliste where we wanted to interview him. But with all that thinking time whilst living and riding solo, he'd done our job already. These are the Doubletrack Diaries. So, I thought I'd catch up with the intrepid traveller after yesterday's travails. Ask him (me) some burning questions I'm sure you're all dying to know. (AC is you, I mean me, asking the questions. DTF: is Doubletrackfanatic, the rugged traveller and lover of the outdoors) AC: GIVE US A SMALL BIOGRAPHY DTF: Andy Cox, 39 and a half, born in Oxford, lived in south Wales for the last 8 years. AC: SO, THIS IS A MIDLIFE CRISIS JOURNEY THEN? DTF: Hardly... I've been having midweek, existential, crises for the last two decades, so no not midlife, more the need to do something other than the same thing every day. My life felt like it was getting stale, so I thought I'd go exploring the world for a while. AC: SO, YOU'VE GOT NO FAMILY THEN? JOB, CAR, MORTGAGE? DTF: No dependents, no. Parents and siblings sure, and I own my own house, so the rent I'm getting from it is paying for my trip. Jobs come and go, cars, well I can't drive so no. AC: YOUR ROUTE ISN'T A NORMAL ONE IT SEEMS. LOOPING ABOUT AND RETURNING TO PLACES AGAIN. EXPAND A LITTLE ON THIS PLEASE. DTF: I think the phrase 'Making it up as I go along' explains it well. I've tried a few of the mapped bikepacking routes, off road touring really, and they're not really for me. I can carry 3 days of food and I like the solitary existence in the hills and mountains, so I'm using the routes as a guide. I'm not a fan of cities, or campsites, so I try to stick to dirt roads and easy trails if I can, camping in the woods or on mountain tops. AC: YOU MUST BE PRETTY SELF-CONFIDENT THEN? DTF: Well there's self-confidence, which is something you show to others, and there's confidence in yourself, which is knowing your limits, your skill and your fears, and knowing how far you can push them. Two very different things. I'm not especially self-confident, but I'm very confident in myself. I know I can push my limits pretty far out of my comfort zone, and still keep my head while others around me are losing theirs. Years of solo riding and adventures have taught me a lot about myself and I now trust my instincts implicitly. Self-confidence is linked to self-esteem and self-image, of which I'm lacking a bit in. AC: DON'T YOU GET LONELY? DTF: Much less so than I did when I lived in the UK. Sure, I miss people and the ability to just strike up a conversation with someone, my French isn't very good, but I meet more interesting and interested people while day to day traveling then I ever would at home. AC: BACK TO YOUR ROUTE FOR A MINUTE, HOW DO YOU FIND WHERE TO GO? JUST BY CHANCE? LUCK? DTF: I follow my nose. I look at a map, find something that looks cool, a trail, a doubletrack, a view point or place, and find an interesting way to get there. Sometimes it goes wrong but often I find some unexpected gems and they're what makes my adventure an adventure rather than just a bike tour. The unexpected is often the most enjoyable as you have no preconceptions so are just open to experience the moment for what it is. AC: SO WHERE NEXT THEN? DTF: Mont Ventoux I think, off road of course, then back here to Nice to ride the Torino Nice Rally at the beginning of September. Then south towards Spain and follow the warmth into the autumn and winter. Maybe Morocco for Xmas, but I'm easy. How does not the UK sound? AC: Sounds good to me AC: GIVE US A FEW HIGHLIGHTS OF YOUR TRIP; DTF: To list a few… Riding away from my front door was great. Seeing the Alps for the first time entirely self-propelled. Crossing the petite saint Bernard pass while it was still covered in snow. Via del Sale and the Atla Via high altitude double tracks. AC: LOW POINTS? DTF: They generally involved a big city, a long day of headwinds, or the Simplon pass with its traffic and tunnels. Not many considering where I've been and what I've lived through. AC: THANKS FOR YOUR TIME.

La via del sale These days we take salt for granted, but centuries ago it was a matter of life or death, and where salt flowed in one direction, gold flowed in the other. There were hundreds of salt roads in Europe, leading from the marine flats of the Mediterranean, or from major ports like Nice, to wherever the salt was needed. And since it was vital for preserving food, salt was needed everywhere. Salt roads crossed Poland and Czechoslovakia, traversed Tuscany, the Po valley, all of Switzerland. In the Maritime Alps behind Nice, the different ruling dynasties of the region – the Counts of Provence, the Dukes of Savoy, the Lascaris di Tenda – sought to control and profit from the salt trade. Salt roads carved their way up gorges and over mountains, and villages became towns, became powerful cities, thanks to the tolls they imposed on the traffic. Today, the salt roads have mostly disappeared without a trace. If they still exist at all they are deserted and crumbling, in some of the remotest mountains we know. Ideal, therefore, for an adventure ride. We rode up the road from Tende, a road which follows the course of the old Route du Sel. Tende stands guard below the Col de Tende, which is still a key border crossing. However, it also used to be the most direct route from the salt marshes of the Camargue and Hyères to the noblemen of the House of Savoy, who ruled the Alps from Turin. This narrow path, used since time immemorial by tribes and marauding Saracen invaders, was widened and improved by the Savoy and, at the height of the trade in the 18th century, 45,000 mules a year worked the road over the col, the majority of them transporting sacks of salt. We rode past the town, vaulted the modern road tunnel and took the famous old road with its 48 switchbacks above it. Halfway up, just past the ruin of a monastic refuge, the tarmac disappeared. It would not reappear for 80 kilometres or more, and there we were on the gravel. Tende is a hard and hot and breathless climb, through pines and under towering cliffs of rock. At the top, a confluence of roads, leading to ski lifts, a chalet restaurant, and the huge abandoned barracks that used to defend this strategic strongpoint. Behind us was France; in front of us, Italy, falling away into the valley; and along the top of the ridge, suspended between the two, another Savoyard salt road. This Via del Sale stretched out into the high wilderness, a wilderness that used to be populated by brigands and bandits eager to relieve travellers of their precious cargo. But we were on our own. Up there, on top of those mountains, there was nothing, except for a painstakingly constructed rocky road swinging from col to col, descending and rising and then descending again, but rarely dipping below 2,000m. Occasionally, a 4x4 expedition vehicle passed, with its supplies and spare tyres piled upon the roof, but that was it. It was difficult to remember, as the light faded over that desolate high landscape and a chill wind whisked clouds around the darkening peaks, that paths generally follow the easiest possible route. A track is a friendly thing, showing you where people have been before, and promising that you will reach a destination. A path is a story with a beginning, middle and end. But this one seemed so hard. So obscure and hard won, and so difficult to construct, and to travel along: what unimaginable riches the salt must have brought, to make the journey worthwhile. We had climbed and climbed all day, into a world of scorched brown grass and grey rock, and it was easy to feel the lengthening shadows populated by smugglers and thieves. But then, as the sun set, we reached the rifugio, where climbers and drivers, riders and woodsmen were gathering for the night. Prosciutto, risotto, carne, a little human warmth, and then a dormitory bed, more food and the second day descending the Via del Sale to the sea. This stretch was easier, and we descended through woodlands that once belonged to modern Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II. It was his family who had built this track, and his descendants who had maintained it, in part for the troops manning the high fortresses on these ridges overlooking the border. And, for us, it was time to pick our side. Reverting to type, we chose France, and so ascended the Passo di Tanarello and started the long descent back to the valley we started in. Sometimes, we ride simply for sensation, sometimes for training, or to find time to think (or not to think). And, often, to explore what’s around the corner, over this hill, or that one. But sometimes a bicycle is a time machine, one that lets us peel back the surface of the modern and sink through the layers of the past into landscapes that are not our own. Because if we don’t, at least sometimes, wonder why the path is there – who beat this track, and for what reason? – then we may as well be on an exercise bike in a gym. And where is the fun in that? RIDERS' NOTES Our Via del Sale route For this section of the Salt Road, take a car or train to Tende village where you can either ride the route clockwise by starting with the Col de Tende or anti-clockwise by climbing up from La Brigue Photography: Matt Wragg // Words: Max Leonard Rifugio Don Barbera 2079m, Briga Alta, Province of Cuneo, Italy

The Transam Bike Race: Across the great divide Last year, during the Transcontinental Bike Race, Rebecca Harrison became known to us as 'The Girl In The Georgette' when we noticed her sleeping on the floor in one of our signature merino jerseys. This year Rebecca has been ultra-adventuring under her own steam once again, traversing the land of the free during the TransAM Bike Race. Discover her whys and wherefores of life on the long-distance road. I’m in my cycling bubble – that layer of insulation from the real world where all that matters is pedaling, eating and sleeping. Post-TransAm I decided to ride 120 miles out to Ocean City for recovery – because I’m also in my cycling groove after just under 29 days of non-stop cycling. 

Because riding is my happy place. And it seemed like the easiest way to get two people plus two bikes to the beach and reflect on what we'd just achieved… It’s called the TransAm Bike Race. But I was only ever racing myself hoping to get to the finish and maybe even improve on my performance from last year’s TCR. There are no prizes in this race. Everyone is 'racing' for their own sense of achievement. Preparation? We paid our money and then life got in the way of serious training. But with ultra-distance I guess this is an important point – the training required is less than you would expect. Luck and stubbornness are as important as saddle time. However…. It turns out the Transam is 4,300 miles- almost double the length of the TCR! I consoled myself with the thought that at 51,000m there was only marginally more climbing. It was basically TCR plus 1,900 flat miles…. I also discovered you could choose to ride either west to east or east to west. There was a whisper that the prevailing winds blew towards the east and I would take any chance of a tail wind across the flat plains! Plus, early morning is my favourite time of day so it made sense to ride into the sunrise. Going to America was not as plain sailing as the TCR (where I finished a night shift, got the train to London and then the Eurostar to Belguim) Extra stress of packing lists and baggage handlers taking care of my bike was dissolved by the time we were using the fantastic bike assembly area at Portland airport, complete with tools, track pump and bike stand. It truly is a bike-friendly city. The ‘race’ started at 6am and I was surprised who my nerves kicked in. Ignorance is bliss and with the experience from the TCR I was more aware of what lay ahead on the road. I knew there would be times when I would go hungry and thirsty, times when I wouldn't be able to find anywhere to sleep and times when I didn't think I could continue. You start to wonder “why am I doing this again?”. A reiminder of why came on the first major climb we encountered. McKenzie pass in Central Oregon had only just been snow ploughed a couple of days before which meant it was still closed to cars - a cyclist's playground. It’s an annual occurrence and the lack of cars meant we could savour the scenery. It was a real privilege. Crossing state lines became our new country days from TCR. They were something to look forward to and really made it feel like we were making progress, and sometimes also marked a significant change in the terrain to be tackled. Wyoming state line was situated inside Yellow Stone National Park and that really set the tone for the whole state. Yellow stone was a shock to our British systems - the vastness of it all and supersize everything, from the skyscraping tree line to that constant ‘threat’ of grizzly bears. And of course weather. As we passed from Yellow Stone into Grand Teton National Park we heard a tour guide tell his captive audience that there would only be indoor activities that day. There would be no indoor activities for us as we had the Togwatee Pass penciled in for the afternoon. About seven miles from the top, the weather really closed in. Snow, sleet and howling winds drove us into the the first lodge we found on the descet. It was so comfortable we ended up having mammoth 12 hours of sleep. Another rule of ultra cycling - take it while you can. The wind on the flats of Wyoming was punishing – head or cross wind only it seemed. But finally, as happens on these events, things eventually have a way of picking up and turning around. A strong tail wind blew us into an atmospheric arrival at Jeffrey City, an old-purpose mining town, now with around only 50 inhabitants. Our motel had a staff of one – owner, bar man, chef and waiter. Proper mid-American small town obscurity. I can only imagine the proprietor’s surprise when a couple of hours after our departure, one of our fellow riders arrived to refuel and started cursing us, “the Brits”. We eventually bumped into Mike a few days later. During dinner he explained that he'd been hunting us down for five days- not unusual in a race so long. Mike regaled us with stories of repeatedly arriving in towns a couple of hours behind us, looking in creepy churches because that's where the tracker had us staying and scrabbling about in the morning when he saw us leave. We leap frogged each other for the next few days. From talking to other riders it seems this is quite a common phenomenon – across the entire continent riders were either trying to shake off their chasers or reel in those ahead. It’s funny to think of it in isolation as the rest of the American population goes about it’s business. Janie Hayes, the eventual winner of the womens’ category was right when she told me on the start line that the TransAm saves the best till last. Crossing the state line into Missouri all of a sudden we had greenery and turns in the road. A welcome change after 500 miles of Kansas’s straight tarmac- great for getting big miles done but I felt every single mile. We were soon into the Ozark mountain range- a luscious humid place reminiscent of the rainforest. Humidity, rolling hills, sweat, and using every gear available. It was intense. Ice cream and cold drinks were our only saviours. The last mountain range we passed through were the Appalachians. At this stage you think the major climbing was left behind in Colorardo. The Appalachians stay below 400m in height so they don't appear too aggressive on the profile but you sure do bounce up and down inside that 400m! As well as strong gradients, we met dense fog. Out of that fog, came a ‘trail angel’ who asked us if we knew about the ‘cookie lady’s house’. Turns out the cookie lady had, since the 70s, noticed tired cyclists slogging up the steep hill outside her house and decided to feed them cookies. When she died in the 90s she left her house to the Transamerica bicycle trail and it has become a cyclist's haven- they even still have cookies!! It was a true American cycling dream and an example again of the human kindess that surprises you around every corneer – the unidentified client who paid our breakfast bill, the dot-watchers who guided us into the local fire station for shelter and plying us with British beers, the lady in Yorktown handing riders cold drinks as they passed, the cyclists who rode beside us for sections at a time. Arriving at the columns in Yorktown, the finish line of the Transam, I felt a mixture of emotions - happiness and relief but also an overwhelming sense of emptiness. This race was not about reaching the final destination but the journey I'd taken to get there, the amazing people I'd met along the way, the sights of “real” America and everything I'd learnt about myself. I guess that's the reason for the “post-race blues” and why so many people keep coming back for more… I thought back to the start line, where Nathan Jones the race organiser said that no one really understands what you're doing- not your family and not your friends. But I disagree. Anyone who has wanted to quit something, been so close to giving up but instead finished, not for prizes or medals but purely for their own personal satisfaction, then they will understand why we do what we do. I knew that if I had scratched from the race the short term discomfort I was in would be over but the long term pain of quitting wouldn't leave me until I had come back another time and finished this race. So chapeau to all my fellow racers who completed the Transam and to those who didn't finish good luck for future attempts. If you are considering an ultra-distance event but are yet to commit, I say this - entering is by far the hardest part.

Inca divide demands They have been named 'Chasquis' after the messengers that formed the running communication system of the Inca Empire. Ten days ago 13 riders, sporting our Audax Monique Jersey , set out from Quito in Ecuador with the objective of riding self-supported to Cuzco in Peru. The first edition of Inca Divide is a beta test of a different kind, so it's time to check in on those who checked out. Such a huge task has to be broken down into smaller parts. The first objective was Checkpoint 1 in Vilcabamba. It might be expected that with 3,500kms and 63,500m of climbing, the riders would ease into the flow of the race gently. But as all those who have done so will testify, put a number on and immediately logic is skewed. The pack split early as the all-important feature of self-supported ultra distance racing emerged – route planning. A front group comprised of Marcel Esser (Netherlands), Rodney Soncco (Peru) and Gustavo Breitenbucher (Argentina) took the main road over the mountains. Alex Wall (England) and Andreas Fabricius (Sweden) decided to take the ‘flatter’ gravel and mud roads of the Amazonian forest. A dangerous tactic given the unpredictable Ecuadoarian weather. The road choice won out with Marcel Esser, aka “The Pace Car”, the first to have his survival map stamped at CP1. Meanwhile Alex Wall admitted to crying at one point on a freezing descent with broken brakes and Jean-Luc Moncassin (France) had a bad fall caused by a collision with a stray dog. The distance covered by the leaders was between 700 and 800 km with more than 15,500m of elevation gain. Not your average cycling holiday. The key to ultra racing (so they say) is to just keep on keeping on, clocking the clicks like a metronome. Gustavo Breitenbucher had hit out early, surprising everyone by rising at 1am on the third day to streak into the lead. Unfortunately for him his knees were not as strong as his head or his heart and he had to ‘scratch’ from the race the following day as the relentless climbing became too much. And he was not alone - the weak point in Alex Wall's legs also gave way. The warning signs are there. With the group stretched between CP1 and CP2 the leaders crossed the border into Peru but cracks are beginning to appear. The stunning scenery helps as the riders battle the old unpaved Incan road network. But even as the comfort of civilisation warms hearts and heals doubting heads, this race punishes again with it's unrelenting requirement to climb. Even out of the city. With 2,000kms covered there are still 1,500kms remaining for the leaders (who are effectively 3 days and 300 to 500kms ahead of the other riders). This might be cycling voyeurism or inspiration. It depends entirely on your viewpoint. Either way, stay tuned to the dots as the make their way south. It's like the Running Man or the Hunger Games (depending on your age) on bikes.

Inca divide demands They have been named 'Chasquis' after the messengers that formed the running communication system of the Inca Empire. Ten days ago 13 riders, sporting our Audax Monique Jersey , set out from Quito in Ecuador with the objective of riding self-supported to Cuzco in Peru. The first edition of Inca Divide is a beta test of a different kind, so it's time to check in on those who checked out. Such a huge task has to be broken down into smaller parts. The first objective was Checkpoint 1 in Vilcabamba. It might be expected that with 3,500kms and 63,500m of climbing, the riders would ease into the flow of the race gently. But as all those who have done so will testify, put a number on and immediately logic is skewed. The pack split early as the all-important feature of self-supported ultra distance racing emerged – route planning. A front group comprised of Marcel Esser (Netherlands), Rodney Soncco (Peru) and Gustavo Breitenbucher (Argentina) took the main road over the mountains. Alex Wall (England) and Andreas Fabricius (Sweden) decided to take the ‘flatter’ gravel and mud roads of the Amazonian forest. A dangerous tactic given the unpredictable Ecuadoarian weather. The road choice won out with Marcel Esser, aka “The Pace Car”, the first to have his survival map stamped at CP1. Meanwhile Alex Wall admitted to crying at one point on a freezing descent with broken brakes and Jean-Luc Moncassin (France) had a bad fall caused by a collision with a stray dog. The distance covered by the leaders was between 700 and 800 km with more than 15,500m of elevation gain. Not your average cycling holiday. The key to ultra racing (so they say) is to just keep on keeping on, clocking the clicks like a metronome. Gustavo Breitenbucher had hit out early, surprising everyone by rising at 1am on the third day to streak into the lead. Unfortunately for him his knees were not as strong as his head or his heart and he had to ‘scratch’ from the race the following day as the relentless climbing became too much. And he was not alone - the weak point in Alex Wall's legs also gave way. The warning signs are there. With the group stretched between CP1 and CP2 the leaders crossed the border into Peru but cracks are beginning to appear. The stunning scenery helps as the riders battle the old unpaved Incan road network. But even as the comfort of civilisation warms hearts and heals doubting heads, this race punishes again with it's unrelenting requirement to climb. Even out of the city. With 2,000kms covered there are still 1,500kms remaining for the leaders (who are effectively 3 days and 300 to 500kms ahead of the other riders). This might be cycling voyeurism or inspiration. It depends entirely on your viewpoint. Either way, stay tuned to the dots as the make their way south. It's like the Running Man or the Hunger Games (depending on your age) on bikes.

Seoul Searching South Korea. A land that is defined as much by its opposition and contrast to its northern sibling. The most militarised border in the world, allegedly patrolled by robot soldiers made by Samsung. Artificial Intelligence is armed.... But South Korea has Seoul. World Design Capital in 2010, the most wired city in the world, miracles from the Han River.... And with an ever increasing cycling culture, it was time to do some Seoul Searching. SEARCHING FOR....OLD SEOULThe old still remains underneath, behind and between the new as architecture tells the country’s story in the shadows of skyscrapers. Monuments are signposts to the past. King Sejong the Great’s brazen bust is one of the most impressive. He was a Confucian, the far east's humanism before humanism was invented. He brought power to the people and recognized intellectual merit over social class. He also had a huge respect of nature and what it could provide. He crystallized these thoughts in his “Farmer’s Almanac” and it is maybe this that keeps the people of South Korea and a mega-city like Seoul connected to their outlying landscapes. Hiking is one of the population's favourite past times. Cycling has followed suit. Rapidly. SEARCHING FOR....SEOUL STYLEFor the upwardly mobile Seoul cyclist, the de rigueur set-up is Aston Martin, Jaguar or Maserati topped with Stork carbon, Passoni titanium or Speedvagen steel (other brands are available…..). The rule that the bikes on top of the car must be worth more than the car itself does not apply in Seoul. Swap your driving gloves for your mesh-backed mitts, change your flappy paddle trip-tronic gears for your Campag EPS, switch your Gucci loafers for your shiny Giro Empires. Shaven legs and the latest cycling fashion. Seoul has style. SEARCHING FOR.... SEOUL SPACEBut for these Seoul cyclists, it is hard to find space. This is a city of 9.85m people, or 25m if you count the entire Seoul Capital Area with its commuter belt. Twenty five. Million. That's why they call it a mega city - not the place you expect to find some top grade parcours. But, as a wise cyclist once said, all you need is a map and an imagination. SEARCHING FOR..... SEOUL ZENTaking a ride up to the steep hills of Bukchon Hanok Village with its small back streets and traditional hanok houses is one of the unknown ways to find some quiet time. Especially if you go before sunrise. Hanok was a term invented to help westerners describe the style of architecture that locals, like locals tend to do, take for granted. In a city which has had two mayors nicknamed “Bulldozer” in the past 60 years, it is no mean feat that an inner-city village such as Bukchon still stands. It’s alleycat riding. It’s history. It’s like nothing you’ve ridden before. SEARCHING FOR.... LOST SEOULTraditional Korean architecture places considerable importance on the location and positioning of a house. This practice, known as baesanimsu, dictates that the ideal house should be situated facing a river with mountains to its rear and hanok usually conformed. It’s a recognition of the importance of correctly placing human endeavour in nature. Maybe the Korean architects of old were cyclists. SEARCHING FOR....THE HEART OF SEOULDescending back to the city in search of breakfast provides a return to the more familiar urban cycling scene. Traffic, red lights, thick air, less action. But nature, or at least recognition of its importance, is still here. The Cheonggyecheon stream was covered by a raised highway back in the 1950s only to be re-opened, redeveloped and reinvigorated six decades later by another vote-seeking, ambitious “bulldozer” of a mayor. There are many different viewpoints on the project (and its cost) but it seems to be in keeping with the great King Sejong’s respect for what mother earth provides. In a mega-city, it’s a mega-contrast to modern development that allowed the place to thrive. SEARCHING FOR...SEOUL FOODBreakfast time in Seoul. There is only one destination – Gwangjang market, the oldest in town, possibly the entire country. It is a complex matrix of fruit, meat, seafood, textiles and household goods. Hustle, bustle, steamed rice and ground mung beans. On the menu: soondae (Korean blood sausage), japchae (glass noodle stir-fry), gimbap (seaweed rice rolls) and dwaeji-ggeopdegi (barbequed pig skin). SEARCHING FOR... SEOUL RIDING Market life is pleasing and a reminder of the trade on which this city was partly built. But having done the street performance, it’s time to get back to nature. Properly. Seoul is surrounded by mountains. Whilst they don’t reach the heights of others, they are crucially within riding distance of the city. Here, in July, it is humid, hot and sticky. SEARCHING FOR.... SEOUL BEERAn enthusiastic local ajeossi provides light relief by singing John Denver classics. A unlikely hint of western influence. The recent explosion of micro and craft breweries turning out craft beer is also an indication of changing times in Seoul. So bikes are rested against walls at a German brewery housed in a hanok called Dokil Jutaek and a day’s riding is capped off in the best way possible. Café du Cycliste can be found in Seoul via our retail partners Watts Cycling - a cycling hub befitting of its grand metropolitan setting, offering a selection of curated cycling products from around the world. Footnotes: Photography - Far Ride Magazine

Creatures of habit FOR THE LOVE OF A MOUNTAIN. The Col de la Bonette has a pull on all of us. We've ridden it too many times to count, traditionally as soon as it's open, we've driven it in a 2CV - scientific purposes you understand - and last year we were in such a rush we followed in the tracks of the snow ploughs as they went about their work. And we're not alone. Writer Max Leonard knows the climb as well as anyone - it's one of the main characters in his latest book. Joe Dombrowski is the other. He knows what it feels like to go over the top of 'Europe's Highest Road' in a breakaway on the last mountain stage of a Grand Tour. AN OBSESSIONDifferent people, different experiences, the same old mountain. As Max states himself, in Higher Calling, there are more obvious climbs, more iconic ones, steeped in Tour history and hunted by col collecting cyclo-tourists the world round. But the Bonette has all the elements that he broke down to try and find some answers to the big question. THE QUESTIONWhat exactly is road cycling’s obsession with the mountains? THE ROADAllegedly, if not technically, Europe’s highest. It's just twenty four simple kilometres of tarmac. But why build it in the first place? The answer is found among the forts which litter the route and act as architectural landmarks of the rich policital and military history of the region. If you’re one of the thousands who've ridden Bonette, you’ll remember the passage through the Camp des Fourches, which acts like a gateway between the open pastures above the tree-line and the lunar landscape heights above. As cyclists, the road is a playground but for the residents of Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée it is an economic lifeline. Both for tourism and agriculture. AROUND THE ROADAre the distractions mere mortals need to reach the top. The details of the mountains, the patchwork of nature, culture and history. Marmottes, bunkers, herds of sheep, the construction of the road, the waterways, deer, the shepherds, the rock formations towering above everything . THE RACEThe mountains are where we emulate the legends of cycling. René Vietto, Frederico Bahamontes, perhaps one day Joe Dombrowski. Climbers. GCs are won almost exclusively by climbers. Queen stages are held in the mountains. The mountain is the other competitor in a race that the riders face and where the most memorable stories play out. On such a road how is it possible. To achieve such speeds, to get the upper hand on your competitors. Simple, Joe tells Max - it's a matter of control. If the other guy has it, you don't, and guess what - you'll probably get dropped. Unlike the professionals, we are not committed the racing line. We are here to enjoy and explore. So let’s see how far we can get up the Cime. Today, two hundred metres is the limit. Next time. A HIGHER CALLINGJoe and Max met in the café this time not out on our, and their, mountain. But it's not going anywhere and we'll all be back. Footnotes: Photography : Antton Miettinen

Distance detail: Racing for memories The Girl In The Georgette is back after her TCR adventures last year. Currently on the TransAm Bike Race across America, she gave us her thoughts on the 'why' of ultra cycling.  TYPE 1 FUN - PLAIN, SIMPLE, UNCOMPLICATED FUN. SOMETHING THAT YOU WOULD LOOK FORWARD TO DOING. TYPE 2 FUN - FUN ONLY IN RETROSPECT. SOMETHING YOU MIGHT EXPECT TO CAUSE DISCOMFORT. AM I A CYCLO-PATH? I think long distance cycling events are like child birth (not that I've ever given birth- but there seem to be similarities!) Throughout the event I wanted it to be finished but the instant it was over I had forgotten all the pain and in its place were with these bouncing shiny memories. Well that's how it was for me. No sooner had I arrived home from last year’s Transcontinental Bike Race (TCR) but I had signed up to the Transamerica Bike Race 2017 (Transam). The TCR was difficult and draining; I've never been so exhausted in my life. Against all expectations however I finished and in the aftermath I reflected on the race - it turns out that the good memories far outweighed the bad... in fact even the memories of moments I know were terrible (climbing the Albula pass in the sleet, no hotel vacancies at the bottom of the Grosse Scheidegg, re-routing through the Dolomites when the route became a downhill ski run) were good. This race was serious Type 2 fun. And even more than that, it turned out that memories from type 2 events are more powerful and profoundly fulfilling than type 1 fun. In this life where every year passes me by like a freight train and each week blurs into the next it's nice to do something that invokes such powerful emotion that I know it will stay with me for a lifetime. So my reasons have changed and now I'm racing for memories. It's impossible to talk about ultra distance cycling without mentioning Mike Hall. A brilliant man who was killed doing what he loved earlier this year. The founder of the TCR, Mike has inspired so many people to ride and he has left a legacy. He pushed the boundaries of what I thought I personally could achieve. I still remember lying in an Airbnb in Montenegro with food poisoning on the way home from Turkey watching 'Inspired to Ride' which documents his Transamerica win and thinking a) this man is a total legend and b) I need to ride that route. I was completely inspired and it seems I am not the only one. I wonder if these grungy heroes of long distance cycling appear more real than the stars of the Tour de France as every cyclist can associate with that feeling of being exhausted and hungry. 'Dot-watching' in conjunction with social media has made it even easier to join in the adventure and support the riders. And more riders than ever are signing up to take part in long distance audax events with no prizes other than the knowledge that you made it round the course and didn't quit when the going got tough. NOTES FROM THE ROAD I decided to head off on a micro adventure for training purposes. I had heard great things about the North Coast 500 (NC500), which was launched when Mark Beaumont rode it in one push a couple of years ago! No traffic, decent climbs and stunning scenery meant the Scottish Highlands seemed like the ideal place to train for the Transam. Day 1 Inverness-> Shieldaig. Climbing - The Bealach na Ba in the Applecross peninsula Day 2 Shieldaig-> Ullapool. Early starts - I love feeling like you're the only person awake . The route takes you out between lochs in Beinn Eighe. Day 3 Ullapool-> Durness. Hitting the wall - Tactics – 1st take a low gear and spin. 2nd, snack time – slow release carbs, then fast release sugars. 3rd, break it down – 5kms at a time. Finally, I repeat 'ebbs and flows, ebbs and flows”. Day 4 Durness-> Wick. Beauty in nature - Little beaches, pure white sand and clear turquoise water had me questioning if this was the Scottish highlands or the Maldives! Day 5 Wick-> Inverness. A ten minute downpour of tropical rain and hale. But as quickly as it started I rode out of the other side into pure sun and blue skies! REFLECTIONS ON THE NC500 Expectations play a huge part in what we can achieve and our mindset with which we achieve it. If someone had asked me to eat cold pizza and sleep in a bush during the NC500 then I would have laughed in their face but during the Transam this is how I expect to spend my evenings- and so hopefully I will enjoy (and endure) those adventurous nights! Perhaps expectations are what keep us grounded and locked into social norms. Live the moment - enjoying the journey is integral because when it is over all you are left with is memories and no one wants to remember staring down at the road for endless miles wishing for a hot meal and a comfy bed...

The influences of confluences The Musée des Confluences in Lyon sits on the meeting of the Rhône and Saône rivers. It's purpose is to examine the story of mankind and the history of life. Philosophy and science, à la francaise. It was also the meeting point for the second edition of Chilkoot's Confluences - four districts, four departs, four groups of cyclists that leads to some pontification on the story and meaning of cycling, following the format laid out by our learned museum curators. ORIGINS, THE STORIES OF THE WORLD: ALL OF US ON THE PLANET SHARE THE SAME QUESTIONS ON THE ORIGIN OF THE WORLD AND OUR PLACE IN IT. What was cycling’s big bang? It's a tangled web of racing, recreation, commuting and adventuring. The answer is not in one bike or in one cyclist. Nor does it come from one region. J ust like the Confluences pioneers - a courier from Paris (District Nord), a long-distance loving artist from Marseille (District Sud), Victoire Cycles' marketing manager from Clermont-Ferrand (District West), a beer brewer from Geneva (District East). That is a snapshot. Imagine the rest. A collection of personal histories comes together to form one story - that of confluence. SPECIES, THE NETWORK OF LIFE: HOW DO HUMAN BEINGS SEE THE WORLD, HOW ARE WE INTEGRATED IN IT AND HOW DO WE CONTRIBUTE TO MODIFYING IT. Cycling 200kms takes the confluencers through the matrix of it all, on a route that they may never have cycled but for the invitation of the Chilkoot Pioneers. The shared joke with the boulanger for mid-ride fuel, the crow that momentarily flew side by side at head height on that stretch beside the corn field, the fallen acorns inside that corner that nearly caused a crash, the beating rain from the start. strong>Life behind bars creates a unique species of being. SOCIETIES, THE THEATRE OF MANKIND: A HUMAN BEING IS A MIGRANT WHO IS ABLE TO COME TOGETHER WITH OTHERS, STOPS FOR A TIME AND FORMS SOCIETIES, CULTURES AND CIVILISATIONS. These escapist outsiders share an omerta - don't let the rest of the world know at these moments, sometimes nothing else matters. From one organisation of pioneering cyclists, the 103 individuals decide that for one day all roads lead to Lyon where they exchange a beer from their native region and create and share a confluence that will influence them for perhaps the rest of their lives. They are their own society, a specific bike culture, are they civilised? That's a matter of opinion. ETERNITIES, VISIONS OF THE AFTERLIFE: UNLIKE OTHER LIVING BEINGS THE HUMAN BEING QUESTIONS HIMSELF ABOUT THE AFTERLIFE. A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON DISAPPEARANCE. In the tougher moments on the road to Lyon the questions and doubts creep in as to the value of this venture, and by extension the purpose of cycling as a recreation. The thought of the afterlife of cycling is a terrible unknown and at the same time possibly the biggest motivation. The fear of losing it - the ability, the freedom, the form - is a constant pull to take the cyclist back out on the road. When will I be stuck to the coast, not able to ride the hills like that old guy I saw yesterday? What if that car had been half a meter closer? There are too many possiblities and fears. So once more just escape, ride your bike, with friends, and share a guilt-free beer afterwards. Long live Confluences.

Oh My Oman! “I have not told the half of what I saw” Seven hundred years after Marco Polo, and perhaps for almost seven hundred reasons, Oman is still relatively unknown. Too far for some, too exotic for others, too hot for many. But as ever, there are those that embrace a place for the very same reasons other ignore it. The UCI to a degree when they decided to include the Tour of Oman as part of the early season race schedule. The scenery was stunning but camera shots rarely ventured too far from the racing line. Unlike Axel and Andreas, fresh from breaking the world record for cycling the length of South America. More T.E. Lawrence than Tejay van Garderen, they travelled to put the final touches to BikingMan Oman, a 5 day, self-supported,1,000km event that will take place in 2018, and provide the ultimate test for our hot weather Micheline and Blandine. First stop, the aptly named Mountain Of The Sun. Jebel Shams is part of the Al Hajar Mountains, the highest range of the eastern Arabian Peninsula. Peaking at over three thousand metres, the summit provides views across Oman’s very own Arabian grand canyon and the layered colours and contours of this immense mass of rock. The strata in the rock tell a story of change over the ages but it's been said of the people here that they've always been born free and have lived free. Perhaps it’s a little bit of that freedom that cycling through Oman affords but as with life itself in this harsh landscape, liberty doesn't come easy – Jebel shams serves up a 23.6kms climb, via the odd 25% gravel gradient. It's for those who dare. Between the mountains and the coast lies the Ash Sharqiyah desert. This is not the famous ‘Empty Corner’ traversed by Wilfred Thesiger – the vast sand filled expanse that, to this day, is still largely uninhabited. Instead, the A'Sharqiyah Sands are the original homeland of the Bedouin who find solace and hydration at the “wadi” watering holes – oases often surrounded by swathes of date palm trees. Green sancutaries of freshness in the middle of the desert oven. Complete with camels, of course. The best way to see the desert but by bike is surely the next best alternative. Historically the high seas gave Oman its power and it was its position as a trading post that attracted the early explorers. Ras Al Hadd, which forms part of Oman’s 1700kms of coastline, is the perfect place to rest the legs after a hard day on the road. The great greenback turtles return to lay their eggs on the beach after a five year journey across the Indian Ocean. Set against that, five days riding, doesn't seem such a reach. Whether it's surfing a tailwind at 40km/h, marvelling at the forts and mosques, haggling in the souks or simply slowing to pass through a village and feeling the warmth of people astonished by the simple presence of a cyclist, there are memories here for a lifetime. You can choose the Alps, the trails of Tuscany, the black forests of Germany. And then one day perhaps you can cast your line a bit further and reach for Oman. “You have no idea how much is hidden from you by progress. How much hides behind a veil of our own reflective glory” About BikingMan Oman BikingMan Oman will take place in February 2018 with milder temperatures (around 25°C). Riders will have 5 days to complete a 1,000km loop, self-supported, from Muscat and around the Al Hajar mountains. Athletes will get the opportunity to explore the south-east Arabian Peninsula: the Hajar Mountains, the spectacular Jebel Shams Pass, the Ash Sharqiyah Desert and Arabian Seaside Roads. More info on BikingMan.com/OMAN

Monuments From the pave of Paris-Roubaix, to the Poggio of Milan San-Remo, from the murs of the Ronde van Vlanderren to the cols of the Giro di Lombardia, the big classics have written some of the most beautiful pages in cycling’s history books and given us some of the greatest champions from the glory years to the present day. François, Foucauld, Matthieu and Jochen decided to hit the road on a mission to ride, to feel and to touch the special places where these stories and heroes were made. For Café du Cycliste it was clear that this was a project worth supporting, together with cyfac, Strava and CLC Loisirs. And now the journey is published in a new book which doubles up as an invitation from the authors encouraging readers to travel to the most historic locations of the five Monuments and the one-day classics. Because cycling is never better than when it is shared with others. But not everyone can visit all of the classic parcours, so we posed the question; 'if you had to choose, which would be your ulitmate classics ride from the 12 locations you visited'. And of course, each of the Monument Men had their own personal attachment to different places. François Milan-Sanremo, without a single hestitation. Because it’s Italy, because for just over 100 kilometers, you have the imprression of nearly riding on the sea. Because there is the Poggio, a definitively romantic place. Beyond the bike, the Poggio is one of my favourite places. Foucauld For me, the Mur de Huy epitomises the speciality of the Classics, but I’m going to say Liege-Bastogne-Liege for its parcours in the heart of the Ardennes, through the uniquely dense forests. Jochen Paris-Roubaix. Because it was the first race that really made an impression on me as a photographer. Also, there is always a surprise with the light - it is always there, somewhere. And then there is the wind, the rain, the mud, the mud. The elements play an essential role, on the bike just as they do for the photos. And you have to do it with both. Matthieu If I really have to choose, I would say the Giro di Lombardia. For the landscapes as they turn to autumn, the topography and the crazy views of Lake Como. I like that is a slight cliché, a well-presented version of la Dolca Vita, with the vespas and the villas of the Hollywood stars like George Clooney. Texts – François Paoletti & Foucauld Duchange Francois is the author of Eddy, ma saison des classiques, released in November 2016. He is a regular contributor for several publications including JDD, magazine 200, Cycle! magazine. Foucauld is the designer and editor of the creation studio L’Impeccable. He previously published the magazine Passion and blogs at La Conjuration. He also contributed to the special issue of the weekly magazine Le 1, devoted to the Tour de France, and to Steel Magazine and 200 Magazine. Photography – Jochen Hoops Jochen is a photographer and founder of the Creative Hub Paris agency. With his team of photographers specialising in cycling and lifestyle, he creates visual and editorial content and collaborates with magazines and brands in the bicycle industry. Artistic Director – Matthieu Lifschitz Matthieu (as well as being a Café du Cycliste ambassador) is the artistic director of magazine 200, and founder of Manivelle the graphic design studio inspired by the world of the bike, and more particularly by long-distance brevets. Discover the full journey and see a unique view of cycling's most historic places in Monuments by purchasing it here Footnotes: Text: François Paoletti & Foucauld Duchange, Photography: Jochen Hoops

Chilkoot Safari « The Safari Rally was an event of such classic stature that only Monte Carlo can be safely said to be equal.” The east African round of the World Rally Championship somehow captured the imagination of competitors and followers alike in producing stories and battles that will be ever-present in rally folklore. What made the Safari car rally so iconic ? It was known as the "world’s toughest rally", that’s what. But is it capable of being replicated in a two-wheeled format, sans moteur ? That crazy band of pioneers at chez Chilkoot have decided it can and should be, just like they did with Rallye Monte-Vélo. Once again, the concept of this unique event was too tempting, so we packed our bags and our bikes and headed west. We might be out of Africa, but it was time to at least get into the spirit of Africa. THE PARCOURS The first element that distinguished the Safari Rally in Kenya was that the stages were the roughest the cars would experience all season. It had more in common with the Paris-Dakar Rally (that long-distance off-road challenge which now rather confusingly retains its name despite its move to South America) than it did with Rallye Corsica, for example. Desert savannah sand, the mud of the grassy plains and the sharp rocks of the unsurfaced road network all tested cars to extremes. It required a balance of speed and mechanical sympathy to nurse the modified cars through the long schedule of stages and for manufacturers it was an event where they could prove their metal. The Chilkoot Safari would be no different. The parcours included sand, gravel and mud. The first speciale through the sand challenged legs and bike skills, but combine that with stormy sea winds and the introduction was a harsh one. As the riders headed inland to the Le Massif des Maures things were only to became a lot rougher. This wild area west of Saint-Tropez gets its name from the Provençal word mauro, meaning dark pine wood. And in between the pines there is a network of gravel chemins forged by the local farmers and woodsmen who harvest the chestnut and other wood for various purposes including cork production. This road system was exactly what the Chilkoot band of pioneers were searching for. Tube splitting, tyre shredding gravel, stones and rocks awaited. Just like their motorised counterparts, the racers had to find a balance between speed and vehicle preservation. The fastest of the group punctured multiple times. Another competitor was forced to tape up his rear tyre which had partially stripped itself to the carcass. The mud meanwhile was spreading a disease amongst disk brakes. The grit and slime clogged calipers and melted brake pads resulting in a number of riders having no stopping power whatsoever. There simply was no solution to this other than to call in outside assistance, which came from the mission to recover a second Di2 battery which had been killed by the weather. THE WEATHER Kenya’s tropical climate and long ‘rains season’ meant one thing for the rally drivers and thier co-drivers. Humidity, heat, mud and running rivers. And long rain is exactly what the Chilkoot pioneers found as they congregated on the salines of Hyéres. If you search for images of the cars that took on the east African Safari, you will notice the adoption of the snorkel air intakes to cope with the river crossings and the floods caused by the tropical rains. Snorkels were exactly what riders needed the start of this bike safari. The water simply did not let up. And unfortunately some bikes let it in. One pioneer, xxxxxx, was running a high-tech bike – carbon frame, carbon wheels and Di2 electric shifting. When the incessant rain inevitably penetrated the frame this pioneer was quickly left with no gears and, like his rallying counterparts, had to attempt roadside repairs to the soaked battery and wiring. The Massif des Maures may be close to the coast, but the various crooks and crevices of the rocky formation and the density of the trees meant that, along with the rain, the temperature dropped quickly. Cold hands and the aforementioned lack of brakes led to an early abandonment on day one for more than half of the field. And so the pioneers decided that enough was enough and rolled together to Collobriéres, the village at the end of Jean Bobet’s first account of La Volupté. The bigger question on arrival was which patron in their right mind would accept this band of mud-caked, water-logged cyclists across their threshold ? THE NAVIGATION The Safari rally was the only event on the World Rally Championship to be run on open roads. This could be done because most of the extremely long stages traversed the wilderness, with no paved roads, and no directions. Getting lost was a common occurrence. Chilkoot’s bike safari followed the same format but could have as easily been described as a hunt. The riders blasted off the line only to be followed one minute later by the rider behind – being chased down thick wooded chemins, through heaving rain, mist and fog, attempting to find the right path at each junction. GPS routes had been provided for those with the technology but try reading a 5 x 2.5 cms screen in pouring rain whilst bumping over the large scale gravel of the Massif des Maures chemins. Otherwise, it was a case of memory and instinct having glanced at the roadbook, or alternatively waiting for the following rider and sitting on his wheel for the rest of the stage. Minutes were won on the descents, but lost again whilst we were, well, lost. THE REWARD The Safari Rally faded out as the cost of the uniquely longer and challenging event to the teams became too much and the modern format of rallies changed to become more compact and spectator friendly. The wild adventure in Africa was now an extravagance. But flick through the rally history books and you’ll see nothing but a rose-tinted view. Manufacturers regarded a win in East Africa as almost equal to taking the world championship. But just to finish one of motorsport's toughest and most rewarding adventures was to succeed. So much so, that there is growing pressure and rumours that it will be reintroduced in 2019. The Chilkoot Safari was only introduced in 2017 but for those who were there, who shared a beer on the return to Plage des Salins-d'Hyères, it should be the first entry in the calendar every season. Footnotes:Photogrpahy - Manivelle.cc & Bereflex Photogrpahy

La Volupté Jean Bobet est un Breton, un littéraire et à un certain degré romantique. Il a parfois eut des difficultés à aimer la profession qu'il a choisi, cependant le simple plaisir de faire du vélo ne l'a jamais quitté. Peut-être parce que c'était tout simplement le ciment qui l’unissait à son frère dont il était si proche mais pour sûr, c’est lors de ces jours où tout s'harmonisait qu’il a réalisé qu'il y avait peu de choses dans ce monde qu’il aimait plus que cela. Il l'a appelé "La Volupté" - "Le plaisir voluptueux que vous obtenez en faisant du vélo" - et il l'a trouvé, une fois, sur la Côte d'Azur. Relisant son livre, qui exprime si bien ce que nous cherchons à vélo, nous avons décidé de visiter l'endroit où "La Volupté" est venue à Jean et aussi mettre des images à ses mots. 'Ce qui en fait le charme, c'est l'inattendu, ce qui en fait le prix c'est la rareté. C'est plus qu'une sensation, c'est un sentiment parce que l'émotion y tient sa place autant que l'action' 'La volupté à vélo, c'est délicat, c'est intime et c'est éphémère. Ça vous arrive, ça vous prend, ça vous entraine et ça vous quitte. C'est à vous tout seul. C'est une combinaison de vitesse et de facilité, de force et de grâce. C'est un pur bonheur' ' Ce jour-là - un jour clair et frais de Février - je roule seul sur la Côte d'Azur. À la sortie du Lavandou, vers le massif des Maures, la route est montante. La pente est juste comme il faut pour ne pas trop réduire la vitesse, juste comme il faut pour me caler en prise directe, pour tirer sur la chaine le juste développement qui s'est imposé automatiquement' 'Je fais corps à corps avec le vélo ou bien le vélo est le prolongement de mon corps mais le vélo et moi ne faisons qu'un. J'enroule comme je respire, comme je transpire, tout en douceur. Je progresse, j'avance et je suis en progrès par rapport aux autres fois' 'La pente est juste comme il faut pour me maintenir en prise directe sur le grand plateau. Alors je roule comme je vire, tout en souplesse. Les châtaigniers défilent à mes côtés, la vitesse me siffle aux oreilles. Destination le Babaou et puis Collobrières, des lieux qui font rêver. J'ai tout: l'image, le son et l'imagination...' 'C'est fini, le charme est rompu... Mais trente minutes de volupté ça n'est rien. La preuve lorsque, à mon retour, Louison m'interroge, je réponds tout naturellement: Aujourd'hui, je volais' 'Demain on roule' est des livres à avoir dans la vie d'un cycliste. Si ce n'est pas le cas il est à lire et est disponible ici. Le texte est reproduit avec la permission de Mousehold Press avec les droits d'auteur détenus par Jean Bobet. Photographie: Antton Miettinen

La Volupté Jean Bobet is a Breton, a literary scholar and to a certain degree a romantic. He sometimes struggled to love his chosen profession, however the simple pleasure of riding a bike never left him. Maybe that was because it was the cement that held his relationship with his brother together, but for sure on those days when everything clicked he realised there wasn't much more in the world that he loved more. He called it 'La Volupté' - "the voluptuous pleasure you get from cycling" - and he found it once on the Côte d'Azur. Re-reading his book that so eloquently expresses what we search for on two wheels, we decided to visit the place where La Volupté came to Jean and put pictures to his words. 'Its magic lies in its unexpectedness, its value in its rarity....It is more than a sensation because one's emotions are involved as well as one's actions...' 'The voluptuous pleasure that cycling can give you is delicate, intimate and ephemeral. It arrives, it takes hold of you, sweeps you up and then leaves you again. It is for you alone. It is a combination of speed and ease, force and grace. It is pure happiness.' 'That day - a clear, crisp February day - I was riding alone on the Côte d'Azur. Coming out of Lavandou, towards the Massif des Maures, the road leads uphill. The grdient was just right: not slowing me down too much, keeping me tuned into the hill and the chain tension in harmony with the correct gear' 'Either I was part of the bike, or the bike was an extension of my body, but either way the bike and I were at one. I wound up the slope to the rhythm of my breathing and perspiration: softly and smoothly. I was making headway, advancing, progressing more than I had done before.' 'The gradient was just right to keep me tuned into the long plateau. Then I unwound just as I took the bends: effortlessly and fluidly. The chestnut trees flickered past on either side, on the way to the Col de Babaou and then the ancient village of Collobrières, places that set you dreaming. I had everything: the image, the sound and the imagination....' 'That was it, the enchanment had been broken, but 30 minutes of volupté is not to be sneezed at. The proof was that when I got back and Louison asked me how it had gone, I replied quite naturally: 'I was flying today' ' 'Tomorrow, We Ride' is one of the seminal books on life as a cyclist, both as a racer and a soul rider. If you haven't already, it is a must read and is available to purchase here. The text is reproduced with the permission of Mousehold Press and copyright is owned by Jean Bobet. Photography: Antton Miettinen

Rally Monte-Vélo RALLY: A LONG-DISTANCE RACE FOR MOTOR VEHICLES OVER PUBLIC ROADS OR ROUGH TERRAIN, TYPICALLY IN SEVERAL STAGES 11.30am on the 21st January and the northern side of the Giant of Provence is in the shade, the mercury indicates -5°C and the road is covered in snow and ice. As conditions for descending an 8% gradient on a road bike go, there couldn't be much worse. The pioneers of Rallye Monte-Velo just completed SS3 (that’s 'Special Stage', if you’re unfamiliar in the way of the rally) of the event between Bédoin and the route fermée barrier situated just 1km after Chalet Reynard. They are now on the ‘liaison’ between the end of said SS3 and the start of SS4, up and over the big bald mountain. The pilots slip slide their way down the north side weaving from side to side, sometimes deliberately to find the hard-packed line, sometimes not so deliberately as the fresh snow pulls on wheels and tyres. As transitions go, it’s extreme. It is, in fact, a mise en scene of the entire event. ROADBOOK: A DIAGRAMMATIC BOOK TYPICALLY USED BY RALLY CO-DRIVERS AND OVERLAND TRAVELLERS TO NAVIGATE BETWEEN STAGES. USUALLY, THE ROADBOOK CONSISTS OF SEVERAL PAGES OF TULIP-DIAGRAMS, GPS CO-ORDINATES AND WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS TO ASSIST IN NAVIGATION. Chilkoot, the original band of cycling pioneers, gathered these seven rally pilots at Carpentras Gare SNCF and handed each of them a Roadbook in true rally style. The riders introduced themselves, and more importantly, their choice of bikes. One carbon road race machine played six cyclo-cross / gravel / adventure bikes. Tyres ranged from 28mm ‘cut-slicks’ (as they say in the motorsport world), 40mm adventure tyres, to Guilhem’s fully-studded ice tyres. Maybe his gravel crew had already recced the stages and he knew something the rest didn’t. LIAISON: AN UNTIMED SECTION OF THE RALLY ROUTE BETWEEN SPECIAL STAGES, SERVICE AREAS AND PARC FERMÉ. The first liaison found the 7 Pioneers arriving beside the walled outskirts of Crillon-de-Brave where the time keepers’ boards indicated the start of the shakedown stage. (Following exactly the format of the WRC event, the shakedown was a test stage run at full pace followed by the first stage of the competition under darkness) The shakedown route unravelled in the foreground, leading to Bédoin and above it the omnipresent Ventoux. It was a gentle introduction to the rally format, a test of man and machine. SPECIAL STAGE: A SECTION OF CLOSED ROAD AT A STAGE RALLY EVENT. RACERS ATTEMPT TO COMPLETE THE STAGE IN THE SHORTEST TIME. EACH COMPETING RACER BEGINS AFTER A SET INTERVAL, TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF IMPEDANCE BY OTHER COMPETITORS. SS1...5, 4, 3, 2, 1….ALLEZ… Red mist and red lights. The first stage set the running order for the next day. Quickly it was clear the carbon machines and their pilots had more pace than the others over the humble Col de la Madeleine (not named after our lightweight jacket, which would come in useful as a fourth layer the following day and night). Riders attacked the tunnel of light in front of them, chasing the red flare displayed on the back of their fellow Pioneer who was up the road. Find the biting point in your legs and hang on up and over the Col then ride the limit of safety on the descent. This. Is. Fun. PARC FERMÉ: A SECURE CAR PARK WHERE COMPETING CARS MUST BE LEFT, AND WHERE NO MAINTENANCE, REPAIRS, OR ENHANCEMENTS MAY BE PERFORMED.Times verified, roadbook entries completed, the 7 Pioneers rolled as a group to Malaucéne for dinner and then on to Parc Fermé. It so happened Parc Fermé was in the tent where the Pioneers slept… in minus 4 degree temperatures.... Martine bib tights and a cosette base layer have never been so much appreciated. In a true rally-style, the late night and early morning start test the physical and mental strength of the pilots. The roadbook stated that the first rider would start SS2 at 0800hrs - time-trialling before breakfast on a night of broken sleep. This event is très sérieux. POWER STAGE: THE 'POWER STAGE' IS THE FINAL STAGE OF THE RALLY. ADDITIONAL WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP POINTS ARE AVAILABLE TO THE THREE FASTEST DRIVERS THROUGH THE STAGE (REGARDLESS OF WHERE THEY ACTUALLY FINISHED IN THE RALLY), WITH THE FASTEST TEAM RECEIVING THREE POINTS, THE SECOND-FASTEST RECEIVING TWO POINTS, AND THE THIRD-FASTEST RECEIVING ONE POINT. Okay, Mont Ventoux was not the final stage of Rallye Monte-Vélo but it was definitely the definitive one for the overall classification. After SS2, the Pioneers find time to warm themselves in the kitchen of Bédoin’s only open boulangerie. This boulangerie is a microcosm of rural provence. Five old men from the village sit beside the wood fire oven, resolving the world’s problems as the Pioneers grab a quick caffeine shot and a pain au chocolat before rolling tentatively to the start line. CO-DRIVER: A PERSON WHO NAVIGATES FROM THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT.We could have done with one of these at Chalet Reynard. Having slogged the 11kms of hellish gradient up through the forest, a navigational error had us questioning where the finish line boards were. Stage winner, Denis, came roaring up behind to alert us to the fact that we were heading to Sault and not the stage finish. We guess one hour at threshold in January will do that to you. Result – 2 minutes gained and one place on the general classification at threat. MAXIMUM ATTACK: TO DRIVE A RALLY CAR TO ITS ABSOLUTE LIMITS. TRADITIONALLY USED BY SCANDINAVIAN CAR DRIVERS WHOSE FIRST LANGUAGE ISN'T ENGLISH TO DESCRIBE THAT THEY ARE DRIVING AS FAST AS THEY CAN, HOLDING NOTHING BACK.With the power stage and aforementioned epic liaison done, the 7 Pioneers made their way to the next group of stages. On paper these specials all seemed simple affairs compared to the power stage. But the foothills around the Giant of Provence undulate like a stormy sea, and Chilkoot had chosen the parcours to really bite the legs. Rally drivers often describe the 'red mist' descending in competition. Seeing the pilot in front depart, the anticipation of the stage after reading the roadbook, the countdown from the time keepers all contributed to a maximum attack mentality. 'Full gas' riding was to the be theme for the remainder of a very long day. In motorsport terms we were ‘bouncing off the limiter’ on every stage. SERVICE: THERE ARE USUALLY THREE SERVICE PERIODS DURING A WRC DAY – 15 MINUTES IN THE MORNING, 30 MINUTES AT LUNCHTIME AND 45 MINUTES IN THE EVENING. TEAMS CAN PERFORM REPAIRS OR MODIFICATIONS TO CARS DURING THESE PERIODS, AND SELECT THEIR TYRE CHOICE FOR THE FOLLOWING LOOP OF STAGES. At the arrival of SS6, we were in need of an oil change or we were definitely going to blow a gasket. As dusk approached and the temperature returned back towards zero, reports from up the road warned of ice. The commissaire decided saftey was paramount and cancelled the final two stages and go straight to service. That service happened, happily, to also be the night’s Parc Fermé in a maison de chasse in the absolute middle of nowhere. A 30kms liaison split the group of Mercenaries as those with less clothing sped up to reach the support of the service crew. Cold beers, charcuterie and the best daube de sanglier in the world awaited in the kitchen full of a mixture of cooking utensils, hunting memorabilia and hard, hard liqour. Engines were being well and truly refreshed and stories from the days’ rallying cleaned air and oil filters with laughter. PODIUM: A STRUCTURE CONSISTING OF THREE ADJACENT PLATFORMS OF DIFFERENT HEIGHTS, ON WHICH THE COMPETITORS FINISHING IN FIRST, SECOND, AND THIRD PLACES RECEIVE THEIR AWARDS. On the last day podium places were awarded and prizes – lovely big bottles of Velospohe beer – were handed out. But this was a pioneer event and the 7 Pioneers had taken the plunge into the unknown and come out the other side with nothing but respect for one another (and disdain for the organisers….) Rallye Monte-Vélo is a unique event in a legendary setting. 95kms of special stages (effectively time trials in cycling terms) with 145kms of liaisons, around and over the incredible Mont Ventoux. In January. It will either kill you, or make you stronger. Chilkoot have an entire calendar of events, each one as imaginative as the other. We will be following the action and bringing you more reports from the feats of the Pioneers throughout the year. Footnotes: Photos : Manivelle.cc / Chilkoot / Gaetan Maurin / Mikael Gagne

What is an Alp? 7 Peaks: One Answer What is the definition of an alp? Or a set of ‘alps’ for that matter? What does it mean to be Alpine? A proper mountain, high enough to be barren of trees, rugged and rocky with a picturesquely snowy peak? Or is it just a singular piece of Toblerone chocolate? Joking aside, surely an alp is part of ‘the Alps’ – the great mountain range that traverses France, Germany, Switzerland, Romania and Slovenia. Wrong. You can find alps in lots of places. Including way down south, in Australia. Newsflash: Europe does not have the monopoly on alps. Allow us to introduce to you the Australian Alps. Our antipodean friends have their own collection, and they are big. Very big. For reference, the plateau on top of the Australian Alps is merely the southern part of the Great Dividing Range and is larger than Switzerland (that’s all of Switzerland, the entire country). And like any other reasonable group of two wheeled masochists, the resident cyclists of Victoria in the south western corner of Australia gaze upon the peaks above and understand that they have to be scaled by pedal power. As naturally as these mountains were formed, so came the 7 Peaks Challenge, an open relaxed brevet style event inviting local and visiting cyclists to climb the seven major Victorian Alpine roads totalling 8,000m of elevation gain. That’s nearly an Everest. What alpine roads are these? Mount Baw Baw, Lake Mountain, Mount Buller, Mount Buffalo, Falls Creek, Dinner Plain (!?) and Mount Hotham. Not Alpine names for sure. At least not as we know them. Enter stage left a Dutchman. Who mostly rides on the flat and in bad weather. Martijn is more famous on Instagram as @imagehunters and inventor of #werideallweather. Whilst he favours (or is maybe forced to favour) the colder weather, that hashtag obligates him to seek out the heat too. And mountains that are alps but not the alps, if you follow the logic. We connected him with the great people at Le Knicks, our Melbourne retail partners who’ve been serving Australia’s cycling mecca for longer than they care to remember and the game was afoot. The European Alps were an act of violence. The Australian Alps, by comparison were borne from a slow divorce, or continental parting of ways. They sit on top of a flat and smooth plateau that was lifted up by a river of magma below. The alps Down Under were pushed up from….down under. They’re vast, more gradual than their cousins and ultimately, lower (topping out not much over 2,200m). Being the son of former professional (dad Peter was a classics rider and is current coach of the Dutch Olympic cycling team), Martijn has of course completed the obligatory pilgrimage to the European Alps. Alpe d’Heuz – bien sûr. Col de la Croix de Fer - bah ouais. So these Australian Alps are going to be meet and drink to a seasoned continental adventurer, yes? Cut to the final 6.4kms of Mount Baw Baw and the first of the seven ascents. Average gradient - 13%. That is a very strong entrée to this feast of Australian alpinism. Hemingway seems apposite and worth repeating. Especially when you’ve travelled one thousand miles for the privilege. “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.” There’s more of the sweat at the start of the second climb, Lake Mountain. Nine to ten percent gradients in the first five kilometres. There is no joyful Hemingway coasting, but eventually things do begin to become smoother, if far from flat. Higher up still, these foreign (to us) alps begin to take on their own unique character. Alpine Ash trees creating a unique Australian alpine backdrop even in the abnormally damp conditions. Served up, perhaps, as a welcome from one alp to another. But as Mount Buller and Buffalo are scaled before a 1am finish, the two riders who started the day as strangers both know that’s unlikely to last. Some Alps are hotter than others. And some are hot enough to melt the heel supports on your shoes. The second day brings forth three more peaks, Falls Creek, Dinner Plain and Mount Hotham, and 38 degree heat. This is Australian alpine style. Hot roads, hard climbs, eagles and wolves replaced by wombats and koalas. And over 100 kilometres of uphill riding. Every Alp, no matter where you find them, has the capacity to kick like a mule. Like those that go in search of them, all alps are different. Each is unique in some detail or other of their character and yet beneath this the core concepts remain. The ups and downs, peaks, valleys, switchbacks and high altitude vistas. The geology and geography may change but the challenges they set remain the same. As do the the riders who roll them.

The Cuneo-Monaco Classico 2016 Trains, plains, and...gravel bikes. The second edition of the Cuneo-Monaco Classico was made by pioneers for pioneers. Part cyclo-sportive, part audax, part pizza and beer festival, the guys at Chilkoot know how to throw a bike party. And the rules are, there are no rules (if you like it that way). There is a beautifully crafted route map sure, but don't follow if it you want to get to Stars 'N Bars for beer in Monaco as quick as possible. Ah, Monaco. It's an interesting juxtaposition to have 23 adventuring free-spirits rendez-vous at Saint Devote, the first corner of the Grand Prix circuit. Swap your Jaguar for your Jaegher bike, add luggage and facial hair. This ain't no champagne party. That said, some riders had appropriate eyewear for the 'Principality'. How do you stress an Italian train conductor? Add 23 bikes to the small train that snakes its way up the Roya valley and through the Tende tunnel to Cuneo. Two and a half hours was plenty of time to geek out on the kaleidoscope of bike flavours brought by the Parisians, the Alsaciens, the Italians and the Azuriens to tackle the 156kms of bitumen and gravel the following day. We've said it before, pizza is perfect ride food. Fact. Personally, we are flattered that our Italian partners who meet us in Cuneo order the same simple buffalo mozzarella style. Tomato and cheese, why complicate it further? Bierra Moretti completes the scientific preparation for tomorrow's roll-out. Piazza Tancredo Galimberti, Cuneo, zero seven hundred hours. Possibly the only time you don't risk fatality with Italian drivers doped to the eyeballs on doppios. And a fitting place for individual portraits of each and every pioneer to be taken. Zip up your Jacqueline gilet, say cheese and....ride. 40kms on the plain of the valley and no-one is helping Simon on the front. He's on a fixie riding into a 10kph head-wind. Stupid is as stupid does? Chris, fresh from this year's Transcontinental (there's another juxtaposition) shames everyone else and takes over. Tende from the Italian side. Normally round here roads on the Italian side of a mountain climb the same elevation in a much shorter distance than their French neighbours. Tende is an exception to the rule. It's a much more open, much better surfaced version to cater for Limone ski resort. When was the last time a descent was harder than the ascent? And that descent turned our respect for Thierry, also on a pignon fixie, into either uber-respect or mocking humour. Not sure which but as he's traversed both the Alps and the Pyrenees using only his 47/17 gearing, we'll opt for the former. Certainly, watching him try to navigate the gravillons of the first 4kms of the descent controlling his speed through the pedals gave as fine an appreciation for the freewheel and the disc brake as you'll ever have. Chapeau Thierry (and Simon) Unfortunately brakes did not save Alexandre from 'pioneering' into a car in the Roya valley at 60kmph. Broken bike, broken collarbone. As you can tell from the picture above, his sense of style remained unbroken. Coolest post-car crash cycling profile ever? Courage Alexandre.... The Brouis and Braus col combination was brilliant but bruising. Arriving in Sospel meant only one valley away from beer, yes? Not on this route. The best gravel lay above, on the easily missed left turn opposite the René Vietto memorial at the top of Braus. We meet single-speed Simon in the restaurant at the top. He's having to take a moment. Long live the freewheel and the 10-speed cassette.... The gravel chemin between Braus and Mont Ours is such a delightful experience, legs almost recover and a strange re-grouping of the lead pack occurs on a remote section of tarmac where usually hunters stake out the wild sanglier. It's comforting to hit the second half of the Col de la Madone together. But the fourth and final Col is anything but comfortable as the elevation gain ticks past 3,000m. Motivation comes from knowledge that the next section is a fast 30km descent to cold beer on the other side. From the first corner, to the last corner.... we freewheel (except Thierry and Simon of course) past La Rascasse, the final turn on the grand prix circuit to find table reserved for us in Stars 'N Bars with a sign-in book to record your time. Arrival 1605 hours, first beer finished 1606 hours. The super-yachts sway behind the group of pioneers, having been used maybe three or four times by their owners this year. Most of our bikes parked in the bar are ridden every day. One final juxtaposition.

South America bites Axel and Andreas are a dangerous pair of cyclists to be around. There is no such thing as ‘impossible’ for this Niçois duo, as exemplified by their ambitious start to 2017 – attempting to beat the world record World Record Attempt for cycling the entire length of the South American continent. Are they crazy? Undoubtedly. Could they do it? Maybe. Did they do it? Read on….. THE COLOMBIAN AND ECUADORIAN ANDES I had been longing to ride in these lands again after my first crossing of South America by bike in 2015. I had been training hard for a year on the French Riviera with Andreas, my friend and riding partner for this crazy adventure. I never missed an opportunity during our early training to describe to him the far-out feeling of riding on this continent. At 5:45am on January 1st, we left Cartagena Police station in Colombia to start our world record attempt to ride the entire length of the South American coast, finishing in Ushuaia in Argentina in less than 58 days. We were well prepared physically, our bikes were built for long hours in the saddle and we had brought all the gear we thought we needed to ride under extreme weather conditions. We slowly learnt that in the Andes it wouldn’t be enough. This country kept all the promises it had made me in 2015. A good dose of spectacular mountainous scenery, cycling from the hot Caribbean coast to the tropical Andes of the Dabeiba region. Colombian people welcomed us as if we were sons of their country (it sometimes took us about 20 minutes to leave lunch stops after four warm goodbyes to the people we met there!). We also understood how Nairo Quintana had such strong legs: Colombia hides some pretty nasty climbs. On dirt roads or in tropical conditions, those climbs might lead any European to stop at every bar to beg for their amazing local juices or famous Agua Panela (water and unprocessed sugar). Juices made from local fruits felt like heaven and were the sweetest way to replace the fluids we lost as we sweated out most of the water we had in our bodies. On top of discovering how to cope with the searing heat, we learnt how to fix a Di2 wire which had been cut in two pieces and crossed a forbidden tunnel for bikes thanks to the gratitude of an understanding Colombian. As we passed through the equator in Ecuador, the temperature dropped from 35 degrees to eight in one day. The sun hid behind every volcano we passed by. The Cotopaxi peaked out from behind the clouds for a few hours before our final Andean climb to reach the ‘Ruta del Sol’ on the Ecuadorian coast. Cycling on the coast felt like Mad Max. Our 30-centimetre-wide cycling lane was mined with holes, dead tyres and dead animals of all sorts. We spent days zigzagging between traps and yelling at truck drivers who desperately wanted to kiss our Open U.P. bikes with their HGVs. At the end of each day, we exchanged a “I’m glad we survived this mayhem” look…And with each passing morning we got more impatient to reach the Peruvian border, mostly because the Ecuadorian rain soaked us and our gear from head to foot! LESSONS FROM PERU AND CHILE In one day of riding, God stopped the rain and we rode from tropical banana fields to a no-man’s land desert in Peru. I had driven the whole coast from south to north in 2016 during the recce for the IncaDivide race. Guess what? Driving was easier. Picture a hostile desert 2,400 kilometres long, with never-ending hills, a constant head wind and some sections of 120 kilometres or more without a single soul around. Then add some nasty ingredients, such as food poisoning, heavy dehydration and cramps. Mix this potion together and you will start believing in God, or at least look to some higher spirit for outside assistance while riding your bike. I can safely say I took my body to the other side on an epic 12-and-a-half-hour ride through this Peruvian melting pot. “Peru was supposed to be easy,” Andreas kept repeating. We had a hard time maintaining our daily goal of 200 kilometres or more. We eventually made peace with Peru after passing the southern city of Nazca, where we rode on spectacular coastal hills with breathtaking sunsets. But just to remind us never to underestimate this country, we endured the strongest headwind of the trip so far on a 35 kilometre stretch to reach the Chilean border. Ahead lay the toughest section of our world record attempt: the Atacama desert and Paso de Jama border crossing with its three passes, all above 4800 metres. We dug unexpectedly deep to beat the most arid desert on Earth. Despite the tailwind and good weather (although we experienced one hell of a snowstorm at 4,600 metres), the infamous Paso de Jama was the toughest climb we experienced: steep, long, high, remote… and exquisite. The hardest part was not to stop every five minutes to take a picture of these inhuman lands and the Licancabur volcano. Few cyclists have had the privilege to ride here, and we enjoyed every bit of this section. During our first long climb in the Atacama desert we ran into something extraordinary. As we approached a parked truck half way up the 1,500m climb we noticed something bizarre. The truck was named 'Axel y Andres' ! We couldn’t believe it. There we were, in the middle of nowhere, climbing a never ending mountain in 42 degree heat only to find a truck with our names on it! We took it as a sign. There was no way we wouldn’t break the record now. Our first stop at a pharmacy in Chile was hilarious. The couple who owned it took care of us as if we were about to die. Indeed, their diagnosis was hard hitting: I had been taking the wrong antibiotic for days, causing the worst diarrhea of my life. We were both 99% dehydrated, which explained the cramps. Andreas was advised to buy new sunglasses as his eyes looked like something from The Exorcist. We stopped earlier than planned that night, to heal ourselves. Gatorade, pizzas and the right antibiotics felt like a rebirth! THE ARGENTINEAN LOTTERY We had 4,500 kilometres to go, and it would all be within one single country: that gives you an idea of the immensity of Argentina. Our time there started with some altitude sickness and power naps on the side of the road. As we passed by Salta, we started to push harder. Up to this point in our ride, our days were mostly focused on covering the required distance without killing ourselves, physically or mentally, and until now we had (almost) succeeded in this task. Argentina blessed our legs as we crossed the Quebrada de las Conchas and the Cafayate wine road. We were in heaven cycling these stretches with unbelievably stunning landscape cordillera mountain landscapes and unique mountain colours. The infamous Argentinean wind was waiting for us after this Garden of Eden. We started for hours, days on the legendary Highway 40 which crosses the country from north to south.We were tired of the wind whipping our faces for hours and the taste in our mouths got more bitter every day. Eventually we made the choice to head to coast to see if the wind would change. Our gamble happened to be successful as we mostly rode with a tailwind enabling us to complete several days of riding that exceeded 300 kilometres. The only downside was being condemned though to stare at each other’s back wheel: it was the most impressive thing to look at in the Argentinian Pampa. In 2015, arriving at Tierra del Fuego after eight months of touring the Andes, definitely lacked panache. This time, as we got closer to our final goal, we had one thing in mind: each day should be more challenging than the previous. This craziness led us to one final mother of all rides totalling 417 kilometres on Tierra del Fuego, crossing the whole island in just 24 hours. We battled heavy humidity and freezing temperatures through the night so that we could witness a final sunrise as we passed by the wooden stalls at the entrance of Ushuaia city, just a few blocks away from the fire station we stopped at to stamp our arrival. This arrival will be remembered as one of the most epic rides of our lives....so far… What had we done? Why did we do that? Going from the excitement of just having to ride our bikes all day to the suffering through the elements, dealing with the illness and riding on average 12 hours each day. Most of this craziness was decided during our casual early morning training. We were dreaming of something big, longing for adventures and South America happened to be an extraordinary one. There aren’t many places in the world that combine such a variety of landscapes, weather conditions and interactions with warm people. What we’ve learned from this experience is that physical pain can be dealt with, mental weakness can be overcome. Finding the positive in the people you meet and the beauty in the landscapes you traverse are the best coping mechanisms. For many cyclists it seems that pushing to the extremities of your own capabilities is irresistible. Why? Because it’s there to be done of course.

Farō Farāre Farum In this internet (of things) age, this weird, wired and wireless world, the idea that the most powerful recommendations are still those delivered face to face might be considered a radical concept by some. But it’s clearly the Velo Pavé way and the proof of the pudding is, as always, in the eating. We sent our own Dane Jackie north to Farum to take part in the Vélo Pavé Café du Cycliste 100 Women’s ride, with the 100 of the title referring not to the distance to be covered but the number of participants. You have to ask yourself : when was the last time you saw a peloton of 100 (or a close as dammit) female cyclists other than on the TV ? Perhaps even more impressive is the fact that Jackie was the ONLY new rider in the event. Every other cyclist in the group had already been absorbed into the female cycling scene curated by Vélo Pavé partner, Carsten and his wife, Mette, the resident expert for any and all the questions and demands from female cyclists that come Vélo Pavé’s way. She’ll ride with one or 100 cyclists. Just as long as she rides. And like her husband, she is a firm believer in the advantages of a well regimented group ride whilst at the same time being fully aware that sitting in the wheels for the first time can be a nerve racking experience. The guidance offered covers every element from cleat choice to cadence, from saddle height to multi-tools and, of course, to attire. Globally speaking, the climate in this part of Scandanavia might be described as ‘temperate’ but from our vantage point ‘au bord de la mer’, it ranges from ‘quite’ to ‘extremely’ cold for most of the year. Average temperature in February? Zero degrees celcius. Which helps explain the abundance of merino long sleeved Yolandes and Claudettes along side the abundance of pre-ride pastries (or Danish, or course). Inevitably the route to this point is slightly different for everyone, there’s no one size or one road fits all here. But certain themes emerge about how so many female riders have converged in this way, at this time and in this place. And whether it be after starting to ride in nearby Copenhagen (slated, after all, as the most cycle friendly city on earth), after accompanying husbands, boyfriends and partners or simply moving from two feet running to two wheels rolling, there’s a real sense that however the fire was lit, the flames were soon burning brightly. Fanned of course by Mette and Carsten and Vélo Pavé. Their passion and enthusiasm has played a significant part, along with their attention to detail. Evidenced on this particular day by the four (yes, four) motorbikes which clear the road ahead and lead out the peloton along with the support vehicles bringing up the rear, dispensing mechanical aide and non-mechanical encouragement in equal measure. And perhaps too that climate is actually a help rather than a hindrance. Because the brooding skies which lend the landscape an ethereal quality all of it’s own and threaten to pour forth at any moment or the wind which blows in four directions at once and tries to rattle teeth, feel every bit as much a part of the ride as the riders themselves and brings with it an added, and unbridled, sense of adventure. In a way that’s what Velo Pavé have created more than anything, in that distinctive face to face way of theirs, in a town in the north. A place to adventure from, a place to strike out from against the elements. Alone, in smaller groups or in an event such as this. And a place to return to when spurs have been won and spirits enriched . Maybe that’s why almost one hundred female cyclists, who got here from almost the same number of different directions, have done all of that and more today.

La Mercan’Tour notes from the field Build it and they will come. Last Sunday a huge peloton of cyclists joined the marmottes, the eagles and (slightly worringly) the wolves in the Mercantour National Park for the first edition of 'Europe's Highest Sportive' Now that the feeling in our legs has returned and enough pain au chocolat have been consumed to replace the used energy, it’s time for the debrief. PATROL SIZE & COMPOSITION 375 inscriptions was reduced to 290 courageous souls ready and waiting on the start line in Guillaumes. The reduction was most likely due to adverse weather forecasts - have you been in a rain storm at 2,715m? It usually turns to sleet and snow.... 11 different nationalities were represented with notable entries from our Italian neighbours and 3 young Englishmen who made a 72hr round trip from Roast Beef land that included a direct drive home after the event. 5 different age groups ranging from 18-29 to 60-67 rolled out. Michel Roux not only won the 50-59 age category but came 4th overall, just 6 minutes and 30 seconds behind the winner. Age is clearly just a number to Michel.... MISSION – TYPE, LOCATION, PURPOSE OF PATROL Type. This was a high mountain assault on three fronts; Col de la Cayolle (one of France's most beautiful passes), the famous Col de la Bonette (France's highest pass) and Col de la Couillole (the lesser known sting in the tail that last featured in the Tour in 1975). Location. The battle field was located in the heart of the unrivalled and untouched beauty of La Mercan’Tour National Park, with the most fierce engagements taking place above 2,000m. Some attacked the course like any other, but others took time to savour the fact they were riding through a 360º panorama of pure mountain glory. Purpose. To combine the beauty of cycling with the beauty of the location, an exclusive parcours that has only ever hosted professionals before. To test those fit enough to race over 180kms and 4,600m (or 119kms and 2,700m) – essentially a Grand Tour parcours either way. For most it was a personal distance and elevation challenge - physical and mental resistances were put to the test in equal measure. TIME OF DEPARTURE AND RETURN Exit Guillaumes at O SEVEN HUNDRED THIRTY hours. Return at Guillaumes for the Petit Parcours – 3h:50m:57s for the fastest and 8h:02m:40s for the 119th and last rider to return. The successful rider was therefore travelling at twice the speed of the final finisher, an average speed of nearly 30km/h is pro rider pace. Return at Valberg for the Grand Parcours – 6h:12m:53s: later for the vanquers; 10h:46m:11s for the Lanterne Rouge (more of this to follow via the media office in due course). That's 4.5 hours of a difference between the leader and the last man. An average land speed of 28.8km/h. By comparison, stage 21 of the Giro averaged 31km/h over 134 kms. Impressive for people who do not get paid to pedal. ROUTES OUT AND BACK (& CHECKPOINTS) A straight run due north up the Col de la Cayolle and the first checkpoint at the summit. Before then a grenade went off just after Entraunes when the road rose upwards, and the battalion was split into smaller teams who re-grouped and kitted up on the summit. Checkpoint 2 was on the long descent towards Barcelonette and the first food station. Wiser soldiers took on the saucisscon mini-baguettes before travelling to checkpoint 3. It was on this leg that the enemy tactics of mouton blockades became known. Valley transition number 1 between Barcelonette and Jausier – the low ground with wind was known to be an area of vulnerability. Smarter soldiers were hiding in the wheels. Checkpoint 3 and the feedstation above 2,000m beside the lake on Col de la Bonette. The terrain was beginning to bite and a fuel stop was essential for all but the elite group at the front. Checkpoint 4 – the summit of Col de la Bonette. The advance party was out of sight by a long way. Valley transition number 2 between Saint-Etienne-de-Tinee and Saint-Sauveur-de-Tinee. T eamwork really came into play amongst the various groups formed in the field. Checkpoint 5 – Roubion feedstation. A soldier’s metal had been tested to get to this stage. The slowest and longest 5kms of the mission. Checkpoint 6 – Col de la Couillole. The final summit. Or not as it transpired. One more hill to get to Varberg. DESCRIPTION OF TERRAIN AND ENEMY POSITION The terrain was unencountered in a battle scenario for all riders. Only elite troops had been permitted to engage over the same land in the recent Giro d’Italia stage 21. Nowhere else in the Southern Alps are such large scale obstacles encountered. Analysis shows a total of no less than 57kms of constant uphill cycling amongst the 180 of the grand parcours. That is not insignificant. The lack of oxygen above 2,000m proved to be the toughest test ever faced for most soldiers. Road surface ranged from billiard table smooth to freshly laid gravel, unfortunately the latter coming at the end of the 24kms descent from Col de la Bonette (which took place in sleet, rain and 0 degree temperatures for some) The enemy had smartly located double-digit gradients together with cramp snipers at various unexpected locations on each uphill obstacle. Snow placed on the top of the first two Cols also lowered temperatures to weaken resistance. Shards of rock had been placed at random points on the road by the enemy to test rubber, together with aforementioned gravel. Dirty tactics. RESULTS OF ENEMY ENCOUNTERS Some soldiers failed to make the time cut after the first uphill obstacle and were turned back to base (not without a reverse climb back over Checkpoint Cayolle). The cramp snipers took a number of victims at various locations in the field. Some were able to weather the storm, others (circa 60 in number) succumbed to the pain. But morale remained high and they will return for next year’s battle. An unexpected enemy tactic was road blockage with mouton barricades. This caused a time threat but otherwise was a largely ineffective ploy. MISC INFORMATION & MAP CORRECTIONS One soldier reported that his GPS device read 4,734m rather than the indicated 4,600m on the mission statement. This could have been due to meteroloical interference. Or possibly the additional 6kms of (mostly) ascent from Beuil to Valberg. Snow on the 19 June can - and does - happen at this altitude. Variable temperatures and conditions tested every soldiers’ ability to pack sufficiently without over-loading for the uphill obstacles. Kong Fufu is human and can be beaten. CONDITION OF PERSONNEL Seargent Majors Christophe Menei and ‘Lolo Le Leon’ remained professional throughout despite their huge organisational efforts required to pull off such an ambitious field experiment. The troops were, to a man, completely physically drained. No flesh wounds were recorded. Some my need treatment post-mission for adverse reactions towards their two-wheeled equipment during the coming weeks. But overall, morale at the finish was a high as the Bonette summit. CONCLUSIONS & RECOMMENDATIONS This was the ultimate mountain mission on a unique testing facility. It must be repeated next year to reap the benefits of this year’s efforts. Thanks to press officer Felix Lowe and James Carnegie who took care of photo media for the day. Most impressively Officer Lowe completed the entire mission whilst also discharging his press duties, and will be filling his report with Cyclist magazine in the coming months