The Santiago Pilgrims A pilgrimage on 2 wheels to the Santiago de Compostela cathedral, where the tomb of Saint James the Great allegedly lies and where La Vuelta 2021 finishes this year on September 5th. Read the article on the pilgrimage and the race here. Martin Subelo From aldea Nueva de Ebro, 800km Javier Txus de Barcelona, 760km Irun Caminada del Norte Jacobo Estévez Camino del Norte por la costa desde Gijón 400 km Tour d’Europe à vélo, 22.000km à parcourir, 1560km El puerto de Santa Maria, Cadiz, 280km

Santiago de Compostela : La Vuelta in the Age of Cathedrals It is said that the tomb of Saint James the Great, one of Jesus’ twelve disciples, is located within the Santiago de Compostela cathedral, and it’s at the foot of this very cathedral that La Vuelta 2021 will finish on September 5th. Following the discovery of the apostle’s relics at the beginning of the 9th century, Santiago de Compostela became the site of one of the three most popular Christian pilgrimages, after Jerusalem and Rome. Whether or not the presence of this famous apostle’s remains is legend or truth (and it is still debated by historians today), the famous Saint James Way has certainly never seen so many visitors. Every pilgrim who finishes their odyssey to Santiago de Compostela is invited to earn a compostela. The pilgrim’s certificate is reserved for those who journey at least 100 km to reach the city on foot or on horseback, or 200 km for cyclists, and for those who duly get their pilgrim’s passport stamped twice per day. In 2018, more than 327,000 people walked through the doors of the office in charge of distributing the certificate, more than 6% of them were cyclists. Pilgrims on bikes are more and more common on the routes that lead to Santiago de Compostela, with its guarantee of a maiden voyage like no other, for those proficient enough in bike-packing. It’s on this famous trail from France that we shared a one-day ride with other cyclists heading for Santiago. ‘Trail’ implies the necessity of equipment that can handle the terrain. Gravel bikes are ideal mounts for this type of route, which alternates between road and path. Of course, a pilgrimage is not a trek like any another. For most people who undertake the journey, walking is active meditation, and the final destination is a spiritual quest. Here, cyclists are shoulder to shoulder with walkers – we alternate between road and path during the sinuous parts so that we don’t disrupt the walkers’ peace. Witnessing the sheer enthusiasm of these pilgrims, we take less and less notice of the fact that we’re riding in such a special place. No unnecessary noise, just the rustling of our tyres on the leaves and the ground, and we whisper, as though infused with the power of this place. We dedicated this 50 km outing to discovering a mythical place and meeting fellow cyclists drawn to this extraordinary adventure. Travelling through the old town and arriving at the bottom of the huge 1,000-year-old cathedral, we can understand why it is such a unique site to visit. The sight of runners finishing the Spanish circuit at the doors of the cathedral, in a closely fought time trail, almost looks like an anachronism. When unveiling the route of La Vuelta, the director of the race exclaimed: ‘People say that any place is a good place to start the Camino de Santiago, but few places can match the beauty of Burgos cathedral, the starting point of the long route planned for La Vuelta’s 76th edition. 21 stages. From Burgos to Santiago. From cathedral to cathedral.' Further Riding It's Ventoux Time When the organisers announced that the Ventoux would be climbed twice in the Tour de France 2021 edition, it was certain that July 7th was going to be a historic day. VIEW MORE Dancing on a Volcano Mauna Kea is the highest point in the state of Hawai’i, with its peak towering at 4,207.3 m above sea level. It is often blanketed with snow and always protruding above the clouds. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE 7 majors Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change through the Southern Alps in both France and Italy. VIEW MORE

Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A Monument. If a pantheon of off-road routes that can compete with the five famous ‘monuments’ of modern cycling still doesn’t exist, for sure the Torino-Nice Rally could claim the title. And that’s exactly what scares us. But instead of worrying that we won’t make it, Sophie and I are all but certain we’re worthy of the monolith that stands before us. This keeps our minds busy as we tackle the approach along the winding roads of the Valle di Lanzo. We leave Turin unharmed. A coffee – ameretto, a few warm-up challenges to settle us into the ride and it’s here, in the valley, that the ‘Turin-Nice’ takes hold. Without warning, just as a huge storm drenches us with the simplicity of a hello, the route heads left, and our GPS shows 18% after only a few dozen metres. The Colle del Colombardo is not especially famous, for one good reason: it very quickly runs out of asphalt. However, it’s our doorway to a one-week adventure that will take guts. We spend an epic afternoon alternating between a slow pace and ‘hike-a-bike’ underneath a rumbling not-too-distant storm. The tone is set. We don’t go for the challenge as an end goal in itself: we enjoy the effort and we understand wholeheartedly that big moments have to be earned. However, we rarely climb for the simple pleasure of the act. The first reward we earn is a simple one: a little cairn about 50cm high along the ridgeway which veers to the right after Colombardo, and which takes us up to 2,100m. No signs, no souvenirs, just nature in its rawest form, that we alone are here to appreciate. For us the Torino-Nice Rally is broken up into an impressive series of triptychs. A period of high intensity which pushes us out of our comfort zone, a reward which exceeds that of a box simply ticked and which allows us to survey the land at high altitude, and then long periods of decompression, zigzagging, for the most part, back to the valley. Playing this little game, we take on the northern side of the formidable Colle delle Finestre, before turning off towards Assietta, the col, then the road, for two unimaginable hours on the roof of Europe. It’s incredible what a simple bike can offer you. We didn’t get the chance to properly prepare ourselves, even though we’d seen photos from those that came here before us. We might not have totally believed them before coming, and yet, it’s true. The Torino-Nice Rally, as a route and as a trial, is definitely made for off-road biking and bikepacking, be it gravel or mountain biking. It offers a long and vivid homage to the great road routes that populate the central Alps. We go from Montgenèvre to Izoard, to Agnel (the highest point of the trip) and on to Sampeyre in two days. The final descent takes us down an alternative path from the official route along the Vallon d’Elva road, now closed to cars. It’s a tiny, battered road with worn-out gates on which we advance carefully, with repeated stops. But we don’t grumble, we are too busy in our disbelief that such a wondrous place exists. The Val Maira fireflies welcome us with open arms to this enchanting paradise for our night outside. We wake up to the day we had struggled to plan when doing our itinerary, a day we’ve feared since the start. The fourth day’s climb takes us four hours, we push our bikes for most of it. We are overtaken by hikers armed with trekking poles, who also struggle to haul themselves up this steep, rocky hill. It’s difficult to know if they think we’re heroes or just crazy, but we both agree that there’s a thin line between the two. Neither Sophie nor I feel our mental strength flag though, much to our surprise. I am totally convinced that, at this stage, our subconscious has blind faith in this route we’ve been following for 300 km now. Whatever good it does! Now for what people call “Little Peru”, and not for nothing. This Strada Della Gardetta, sitting beside a refuge of the same name (visibly popular) will certainly be the most epic moment our of expedition. A plateau of alpine pasture, almost free of human activity, undulates between 2300 et 2500m high. It’s mineral, unstable and it reveals itself bit by bit as we go along a demanding trail, but one without any technical difficulties. It’s not just the beauty. The majesty of this place really makes our heads spin. It takes the whole afternoon for it to feel real. The climb to Tende, taking us along the roadway from Italy, heads through a part of the Via del Sale, and is our ticket back to France. A new descent opens up before us and it’s also the reason we’re here: the route is now called ‘Komoot Torino-Nice Rally’ and it’s our mission to test out some of its new stretches, made necessary by the Storm Alex floods in the valley of la Roya. Tende, a magnificent town that looks like the edge of the world, and dormant due to its recent flood damage, comes into view as we follow the hairpin bend of this breathtaking route with care. The region seems to be under a veil, waiting. Its wounds are open, we can feel them. We have to turn back during our descent to Breil-sur-Roya, which forces us to take the train towards the col of Turini, the true doorway to the Nice region, via the historic road of la Maglia (25km, mostly on gravel). A storm picks up 2km from the top of Authion, right above the col. Everything in this moment is epic. A hot chocolate, a descent down to the climb (yes, it’s possible!) and a biker hotel later on. It’s also decided that we’ll return to Nice via the road. Apart from the buildup of fatigue, there is something else at play: is it possible to have ‘over liked’ what we’ve experienced? Should we have ended this adventure early due to Stendhal syndrome? 11:05 in the morning, Tuesday 20th July, Café du Cycliste, Nice port. We have just finished one of the most mythical gravel routes in the whole of Europe. Further Riding 7 majors Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000m of elevation change. VIEW MORE Back to Brittany Bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? VIEW MORE Riding with Purpose #2 Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown. VIEW MORE Northcape 4000 Sophie Gateau rides thousands of kilometers north to avoid rabid dogs and make friends with reindeers in her latest Audax adventure. VIEW MORE

Coins Cachés. Salzburgerland If you are heading to Salzburg with your bike, there are so many amazing routes to explore. Whether you are looking for a steep satisfying climb with awesome scenery or a gentle Sunday ride around some of the most beautiful lakes in Germany and Austria, the Bavarian Alps have so much to offer, both on and off road. We have put together a collection of rides which include classics, like The Gaisberg Climb, the homemountain of Salzburg, and the Rossfeldroute, one of the most stunning mountain roads of Bavaria but also some routes that are less well known but are favourites of ours or are perfect for an after work ride as the sunsets. The Rossfeldroute ROUTE The Rossfeld summit is 1560m above sea level and is definitely not an easy undertaking for beginners. Our route started in Salzburg at 450m and led us towards Berchtesgaden to the village of Oberau and we chose the southern ascent. By the time we reached the toll station on the Panoramic Road we had already climbed 600m. We decided to ride up at the end of the day at sunset, as there is much less traffic in the evening. For the first few kilometres the road winds through the forest but the higher you climb, the more beautiful the view becomes. On the last part of the Panoramic Road, you are constantly rewarded with views of the Bavarian Alps foothills and at the highest point of the ride, you have a view of Salzburg. We descended over 1000 metres in to Hallein, where you can treat yourself to an ice cream or head straight home along the Salzachradweg. This route is challenging but very scenic, especially at sunset when the light and atmosphere are at their best. The Lakes of Flachgau OFF-ROAD The Trumer Lakes; Mattsee, Obertrumer See and Grabensee, lie in the middle of the idyllic Flachgau region. Our route took us along the Salzach river first and in order to escape the city traffic, we stuck exclusively to cycle paths. But as we got further north, our surroundings became more beautiful and peaceful, and we left the stressful city bustle behind. We mainly rode on small roads or dirt tracks, so this route is perfect for gravel lovers. Flachgau’s landscape consists of rolling hills and pastures of grazing cows with beautiful alpine foothills behind. We cycled around Obertrumer See and then along the cycle path towards Seekirchen am Wallersee. Here you can take a break either at the lake or in one of the many small cafés. For those who are motivated, Grabensee can also be included as the route is not particularly demanding, more of a leisurely Sunday ride. The Gaisberg Climb ROUTE Gaisberg is the local mountain of Salzburg and the summit is 1287m above sea level. The classic route leads through the city in the direction of Fuschl. The start of the Gaisberg road is in Guggenthal and it is about 9km to the top. The first stage to the Zistel-Alm is not particularly steep and has a wonderful view of the city. From here, it is only 3km to the summit, but it gets much steeper.At the summit, you are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the whole Salzburg region, especially at sunset. The way back is simple - either go back down the same road or you can head back towards Elsbethen. For those who still have some energy left, you can continue towards the Wiesthaler reservoir to see its spectacular dam. From here the trail leads back towards Hallein along the Salzach river, although this path is only suitable for gravel bikes. Hintersee ROUTE From Salzburg, this route crosses the border to Germany at Grossgmain and heads to the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. There, we climbed uphill through the forest to Hallthurm. After only a few flat kilometres, we turned off at Winkl towards Bischofswiesen and Loipl, where another steep climb awaited. The gradient reached 20% at points but eventually flattened off as we reached the summit. The road is normally not very busy and shows Bavaria from its most beautiful side. After the descent, we reached Hintersee, a quiet and idyllic mountain lake in the Berchtesgadener district. Here, you can stop for a bite to eat or simply taking a short break by the lake. We circled the lake and headed back towards Austria, passing through the villages of Ramsau and Berchtesgaden. Back over the border, we arrived in Grödig, where we cycled along the Moosstrasse, the longest street in Salzburg, back into the city. This route was a recent discovery for us and is now one of our favourites. Round the Grossgmainberg ROUTE The loop around the Grossgmainberg is one of our favourite "after-work" routes. It is easy, quick and incredibly beautiful. The route leads directly through Salzburg along the Salzach and then along the Almkanal, in the direction of Fürstenbrunn. If you're lucky, you'll meet a few surfers here on the "wave". If you ride in the evening, you will have the most beautiful light. The 22% climb from the Fürstenbrunn side is a tough but short one. In total, this route covers 250m elevation over about 33km but you can make the route longer or shorter as you wish. The descent is made up of smooth and flowing bends. Once you reach the bottom, you are on the cycle path across the Walser Feld back towards Salzburg. Here, I often make a short detour to the Mönchsberg - the road is very steep, but you get a wonderful view of Salzburg. You have to carry your bike to reach the bottom which adds something quite special to the ride. LES COINS CACHÉS COINS CACHÉS. JULIJSKE ALPE A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. PAYS DE GALLES God's country explored on two wheels. Rides between two coasts, designed to explore routes and roads less ridden. Through the valleys and over the hills. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. ARIÈGE Explore more, find hidden corners and lesser known places. The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. SKÅNE The route possibilities are almost endless but the main attraction is the enormous network of gravel roads. Across gentle hills, through stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and with the sea on three sides. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. KESKI-SUOMI There's off the beaten track and then there's really off the beaten track. Central Finland has a network of routes and trails that could have been designed with gravel in mind. And in a way they were. VIEW MORE

7 majors In the middle of a very unusual summer, my two companions, Adrienne and Geraldine, and I decided to take on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking as the highlight of a season which never really started. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change through the Southern Alps in both France and Italy. The 7 Cols are Izoard, Agnel, Sampeyre, Fauniera, Lombarde, Bonette and Vars and we are hoping to complete the tour in 3 days, taking plenty of photos along the way. Feeling invirgorated, Adrienne and I are very determined, especially with Geraldine as our guide. We set out to the Izoard early on Saturday morning and we are the only ones on the road. At the top, we treat ourselves to a luxurious 2-hour refreshment break while we are waiting for Geraldine. Once we are reunited, we head for the top of the Col d’Agnel and cross over the border into Italy late in the afternoon. Our plan was to head down to the small town of Sampeyre to find something to eat and a camping spot. Unfortunately, we had no idea about public holidays in Italy and we quickly realise that August 15th is national holiday and every restaurant has been reserved for weeks. Therefore, our options are limited so we settle for sandwiches and fries from a roadside café. As the whole country celebrates, we fall asleep in front of a barn in the Col de Sampeyre, with the muffled sounds of the orchestra at the village dance below. On the agenda for day 2, we have the majority of the Col de Sampeyre and the Col de la Fauniera. Both of these Italians Cols are not main routes and the road itself, in bad condition in places, climbs into a forest of wild flowers. La Fauniera is a treacherous rollarcoater disguised as a beautiful col with aggressive gradients. I am surprised to find that each col is very different from the next, one leading us through rolling pastures, the next through sharp rocks. That evening, we were forced to stop in Delmonte so we could sleep under an awning to shelter from the rain. Therefore, on the last day we had 3 cols and 155 kms to cover. We set our alarms for 3.30am. The climb up the Col de la Lombarde in total silence is magical, as is watching the sunrise over the mountains. We return into France and head for the top of La Bonette, the highest road in Europe at 2802m. Adrienne and I decide, without consulting each other, that in order to successfully climb up the 26.7km Col, we would break every 5km at the percentage sign. Motorcycles and cars, who go up much too fast, are insulted by taking on us marmots, and the time passes much faster. The descent is once again breathtakingly beautiful to Jausiers, the last town and for some food. We were warned that even though the Col de Vars was the shortest climb, it is the most difficult. It doesn’t look that bad to us until the last few kilometres which are on a 9% gradient. Triumphantly, we finish climbing in the dark accompanied by nothing but the barking of the herding dogs echoing in the distance. We take one last photo in total darkness. Then we wrap up as warm as we can with everything we have in our saddlebags and start the last descent to Gillestre only guided by our lights. Mission accomplished. Further Riding Back to Brittany Bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? READ MORE Riding With Purpose #2. Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown. READ MORE Bikepacking Guide – Getting Started. Sophie Gateau shares her insights and experience on getting started in the adventure cycling world. READ MORE North Cape 4000 Sophie Gateau rides thousands of kilometers north to avoid rabid dogs and make friends with reindeers in her latest Audax adventure. READ MORE Download the GPX file from Strava here.

Mauna Kea: Dancing on a Volcano Let the mountain speak and it will tell you of its fiery origin in the pacific and its kinship with the natives. It will show you the window to the universe. Mauna Kea is the highest point in the state of Hawai’i, with its peak towering at 13,803 ft. (4,207.3 m) above sea level. Its literal translation is the White Mountain because the summit, always protruding above the clouds, is often blanketed with snow. Native Hawaiians believe this place is sacred, as it is the home of Poli’ahu, the Goddess of Snow. In more recent times, the top is home to 13 telescopes piercing through the outer edges of the observable universe. In either case, it’s a marvel to look at from the coastal towns surrounding it and a daunting prospect for those who choose to summit. In 1964, a road was built to the top of Mauna Kea, conveniently called Mauna Kea Summit Road. This provided “easier” access to the top which once took a day or more of grueling hikes to reach. Easy, I say, for the motorized vehicle with four wheel drive capability. Not so much for the human-powered two-wheeled bicycle. I was set to find out. There was 14 miles (22km) and 7,125 ft. (2,171 m) that stood between where I had parked the rental car and the 13 telescopes sitting high above the clouds - all I had to do was pedal. It was still very early in the morning and the weather looked promising - clear skies and a cool 20 C. Just a few days prior the access road was closed due to unexpected snow above 9,000 ft (2743 m). I was hoping this wouldn’t be the case as I foolishly did not check the weather forecast the night before. The first 6 miles (9.5 km) to the visitor center went smoothly. It was steep, but not too steep, as I was rarely out of my saddle - I often gauge the steepness of the road this way. The stop at the visitor center was mandatory. You must check in with the park ranger by filling out an identification card. Name: That’s easy. Destination: The top (of course), but that’s easier said than done. Time of arrival: 8:30 am. Estimated time to finish: To be determined depending on how my legs and lungs feel. Four miles dirt and four miles paved-- that was all that was left to summit. This was where the ride really began for me. Because of its steepness and the moonlike surface of the next six kilometers most switch to a mountain bike to do this section. I, however, did not have the luxury of a support vehicle with an extra bicycle in tow. I was hoping that my Firefly all-road bike equipped with Rene Herse 38mm knobbies and 34t cassette would suffice for the challenge. As an extra precaution, I did wear mountain bike shoes since I was expecting to walk some sections. The dirt road was as steep and loose as I had read in numerous blogs, so I did walk a fair bit, but I didn't mind. At this point, I had completely cleared the clouds and it was a stunning, almost surreal, vista. When the dirt section finally ended, I thought I'd be relieved to be back on smooth pavement for the final 4 miles to the summit. However, although the roads were in pristine condition, I was greeted with sustained grades of 18-20%! I was forced out of my saddle for long stretches and had to "paperboy" my way across the road to find some slight relief from the extreme gradient. Feeling tired and almost defeated, I somehow found a last wind as soon as I saw the sight of the telescopes shortly ahead. I made it! I’ve ridden up a fair number of behemoth mountains-- ones that are even higher (15,500 ft / 4,724.4 m in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca) in fact - but I never felt like I was riding in the heavens. I now see why Native Hawaiians regard Mauna Kea as a sacred place. It really is something special, and I feel honored to have pedaled up it. Further riding Bikepacking in the Lone Star State Endless gravel trails, purple posts, rising temperatures and lots and lots of sunscreen. READ MORE True Grit #5 I live, work, and play in San Francisco, California; and am always in motion, be it cycling, mountaineering, or dancing READ MORE True Grit #6 A gravel bike is the perfect way to explore the rural heart of Switzerland. I love clearing my mind by riding in nature where it is just my surroundings, my bike and me. READ MORE Coins Cachés Julijske Alpe. A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. READ MORE

It's Ventoux time When the organisers announced that in this 2021 edition the Ventoux would be climbed, not only once but twice within the same stage, any and every one who is a fan of this outstanding race marked their calendars. July 7th was going to be a historic day and a cycling festival not to be missed. We were also swept up in the frenzy and thought we should head to the heart of Provence for a few days to enjoy a leg feast and the incredible sights. In July, Provence is well known for its never-ending lavender fields, all blooming and adding prettiness to this already photogenic landscape which clearly doesn't need more beauty. On the east side of Ventoux the fields have a familiar hue: there isn’t just a hint of lavender at this time of year, it’s everywhere you look. We hopped onto our bikes at 6.30am to avoid the suffocating heat: the temperatures can reach as high as 35°C. As we start riding the tiny road of the col d’Aulan, we can feel the freshness of a new dawn, the silence of early morning and the rising sun illuminating the blooming fields. It gives us a desire for endless riding. We have plotted a 70km route through a variety of places and atmospheres. Riding through the medieval town of Montbrun-les-Bains, we take a moment there inside the walls of the narrow paved streets: time for a sip of coffee in the shade of a local bar. We are definitely not the only ones cycling here on the roads, this region is obviously a main destination for cycling in France. There is a certain thrill in the air, some excitement attracting more cyclists than usual because of the event about to start tomorrow when the Tour de France will be tackling the roads of the Giant of Provence. To be able to see the riders, you will have to earn it. There is only one way to see them twice, which is all the way up to the top of Ventoux, and only cyclists will be allowed on any of the three roads leading up there. It’s no wonder that the groups we meet are keen to start chatting, to take the time to enjoy living and cycling: tomorrow will be another story, especially because the weather forecast will probably take us to another kind of atmosphere… We decide for a little detour through Brantes, climbing up to this village offers us breathtaking views on the Ventoux, rocky switchbacks through the old stone houses making it worth the few added kilometres, let alone the honey and caramel crêpes from Suzette. We only have a small part of our loop left to ride but it feels so good to be here, we don’t really want to ride back. We are already thinking about playing pétanque in the shade of willow trees and sipping an apérol on a terrace, making sure we don’t drink too much considering what awaits us tomorrow. FURTHER RIDING THE WHITE VENTOUX Climbing the infamous 'Bald Mountian' is tough in the best conditions. Sprinkle some snow and add some cold and the challenge becomes even more extreme. VIEW MORE MONT VENTOUX: NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE #6 When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Ça peak There is always a way to escape the madding crowds, in this case it's gravel. Finding fun on Mont Ventoux's G-Side. VIEW MORE RIDE OF THE MONTH : JUNE From the sea to the mountains and back again, mixing up the parcours of Stages One and Two of this year’s Tour de France to take in Col de Turini and Col d’Eze. VIEW MORE Download the GPX file from Strava here.

Coins Cachés. Julijske Alpe Slovenia is a true cycling jewel on the crossing of the Alps, Adriatic coast, Pannonic flats and the Dinaric mountains. This makes for a crazy amount of diverse landscapes of rolling hills filled with forests, vineyards, castles and churches, high mountains filled with beautiful valleys, lakes and rivers, seaside with nice cliffs, beaches and mediterranean towns, and some nice flats with thermal pools emerging in the shade of trees and caves. The very north-west corner of the country is covered by the Julian Alps, the highest and most spectacular mountain range in Slovenia with Mt Triglav as its highest peak and the most important symbol of our small nation. It is the place of our most beautiful valleys, pastures, lakes, rivers and just about everything that you might think of when you think about mountains. The majority of these mountains is a part of Triglav National park, the only national park in Slovenia. And while we fully support all attempts of preserving the nature as much as possible, there is one downside to that: no cycling allowed on mountain trails! So we took this limitation as a challenge and tried to come up with the most scenic and challenging routes, on and off road, that you can take and see almost all the best sights the Julian Alps have to offer (and there is no small amount of those either)! Pokljuka plateau OFF-ROAD Pokljuka is a high forested karst plateau in Slovenia, mostly known for its vast spruce and fir forests, swamps and idyllic pastures. It is also a main starting point for hikers attempting the ascent on Mt Triglav and other nearby mountain peaks. In winter it transforms into a ski running paradise and holds a biathlon World Cup race annually. This route starts from the shore of Slovenia`s biggest mountain lake Bohinj and follows the dirt road up to the Uskovnica pasture. The ascent offers some nice views and after only a few kilometres you reach the first wooden huts that fill the meadows surrounded by forests overlooking the mountains. What we love most about these pastures are the cows grazing the grass, gently ringing their bells to create that idyllic pasture atmosphere. The dirt road then ascends further through the forest onto a smaller, but incredibly scenic pasture Zajamniki. Stop as you reach the highest point overlooking the whole Bohinj mountains, the highest peaks of the Julian Alps and down to Bohinj lake. It is the most spectacular and breathtaking sight you can find on Pokljuka! The remainder of the route descends through forests, past wooden huts and villages, until the asphalt road takes you through the valley all the way back to the Bohinj lake, where you can relax and cool down with an after-bike swim! Soriška planina OFF-ROAD Soriška planina is a range of hills stretching from the Sorica pass (Soriško sedlo), a road cycling pass which you can conquer from three different directions. Bohinjska Bistrica is the first (asphalt) part of this route, but you can also skip it by taking the bus to the top, where the real fun begins! We are taking the easy dirt road towards the Bača saddle, already enjoying the views of Julian Alps. Reaching the Bača saddle is like emerging on the other side of the world, overlooking the mountain valleys to the South and being hit by the warmer air coming up from the Adriatic sea. The trail becomes steep and narrow as it heads East through the forest, but soon becomes easier. The views become increasingly impressive as you reach the small grassy saddle with a big military fort turned into a pasture housing dozens of sheep. From here, it is worth making a small detour to the peak called Možic, where you will be able to enjoy the best view of the Bohinj valley and the Julian Alps. You can then either follow the rocky road going down the ski slopes to the Sorica saddle or opt for an amazing single-track descent to the South, to the village of Podbrdo, where you can catch a train going back to Bohinjska Bistrica. It is a great experience riding the only mountain train tunnel in Slovenia, however, the curvy, narrow and steep trail is only suitable for experienced mountain bikers. Tromeja OFF-ROAD Tromeja translates to tri-border and is the point where the borders of Slovenia, Italy and Austria meet. You can start this route anywhere along the cycling path between Kranjska Gora and Rateče (we recommend the car park in Rateče adjacent to the cycling path). You will first tackle the asphalt ascent from Podkoren to the Koren saddle on the border with Austria. After a kilometre of ascending you will need to stop for pictures from a look-out point that overlooks the Podkoren village, the Vitranc ski piste and the beautiful mountain ranges that you will enjoy on the whole of this ride. The route soon takes a turn onto a dirt road and you will immediately enjoy the peace and quiet as you ride along the pastures and through the forest with amazing views of the mountains almost the entire way. The last few kilometres become steeper but the look-out points will make you stop and forget about the effort. When you reach the tri-border point on the top, you can literally cross from Slovenia to Austria to Italy and back in a matter of seconds, but the most amazing thing is the view of almost the whole of the Julian Alps all the way to Italy and the majestic mountains and lakes in Austria. Take your time to relax on the meadows or have lunch at the hut on the Austrian side before you enjoy the thrilling descent down to Rateče. East Julian Alps ultimate ROUTE This first road cycling route will take you from Bohinj lake, along the river Sava Bohinjka under the high walls embracing the valley until you reach lake Bled. Take your time to enjoy one of the most famous and beautiful lakes in Europe, if possible with a slice of the famous dessert called Kremšnita. The route takes you almost all the way around the lake, behind the castle, through villages and descends to join the Sava Dolinka river in the industrial town of Jesenice. Here you follow the path towards Kranjska Gora until Mojstrana, another beautiful village at the foot of the mountains. Cross into the valley of the Radovna river, a very popular route among cyclists which is almost traffic-free. Stop and have a snack or take a swim in the mesmerizing blue waters of lake Kreda. Cycling in Radovna valley passes in a heartbeat and you will find yourself back high above Bled before you know it. If you're feeling tired, descend down to the lake and follow the same route back to the start. Otherwise, it is time to tackle the climb to the Pokljuka plateau. This infamous climb is where Pogačar beat Roglič in the national time trial championship for the first time in 2020 (forecasting the events of the Tour de France just a month later)! It is not for the weak, but it is a beautiful climb and takes you to the stunning forests of Pokljuka plateau and even more mountain views. The long ascent rewards you with an even longer and far more enjoyable descent through forests and pastures all the way to the starting point at Bohinj lake. West Julian Alps ultimate ROUTE This is the longest and hardest route in this collection, but it also takes you to some of the most amazing roads and sights Slovenia has to offer. A short stop at the beautiful lake Jasna is a must, but then it is time to tackle the most famous mountain road pass in Slovenia, Vršič. The 25 switchbacks on each side with constant views of the mountain ridges everywhere around will take your breath away (as will the incline). On the other side is the Trenta Valley and you can stop frequently along the glorious emerald river, Soča. At the old military fort Kluže you will start the main climb of the day through the beautiful village of Log pod Mangartom, up to Predel pass, steering right just before the top, only to climb further on to the Mangart saddle. The Mangart saddle road takes you up 2050m of elevation at the foot of Mt Mangart. Don't forget your bike lights as you will cycle through tunnels, and prepare yourself for the most thrilling ascent of your life which will reward you with some of the best views you can reach on an asphalt road in Slovenia. You then descend and cross over the Predel pass to Italy and the Lago del Predil. From there, follow the fast descending road to Tarvisio where we recommend an espresso to add a bit of Italian flare to your ride and join the cycling path at the railway station that will take you all the way back to your starting point. Before you really finish, we included two detours you simply cannot miss! The first one are the Fusine lakes, amazingly beautiful bodies of water overlooking the Mangart saddle you just descended from. The other is the Tamar valley with the Nordic centre of Planica, where world ski jumping records have been set since the 1930s. FOR LES COINS CACHÉS Coins Cachés. Pays de Galles God's country explored on two wheels. Rides between two coasts, designed to explore routes and roads less ridden. Through the valleys and over the hills. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Ariège Explore more, find hidden corners and lesser known places. The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Skåne Across gentle hills, through stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and with the sea on three sides. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Keski-Suomi There's off the beaten track and then there's really off the beaten track. Central Finland has a network of routes and trails that could have been designed with gravel in mind. And in a way they were. READ MORE Slow-vénia More gravel, less kilometers, hugging sheep and hiking bikes, reading paper maps underwater. These are the lessons from Slow-Vénia by PCR Gravier READ MORE Gravel Riding in Texas Bikepacking in the Lone Star State means endless gravel trails, purple posts, rising temperatures and lots and lots of sunscreen. READ MORE

True Grit #6 I’m a passionate cyclist, riding all kinds of bikes and living in a rural area in the heart of Switzerland. At the age of 4, I was already enjoying riding my bike in the hills around Ägeri and Menzingen. However, when I grew older, I lost interest in cycling for several years and rediscovered my passion for this great sport only three years ago. From “zero to hero” the enthusiasm for bikes reinfected me. And especially the upcoming gravel and cyclocross scene caught my attention. These bikes are the perfect match to conquer the hilly, woody area around where I live whether on gravel roads or over rooted trails. The gravel and cyclocross bikes are the perfect match for conquering the hilly, woody area of where I live. Challenging yourself on steep climbs or tricky downhills is fun, physically severe and mentally demanding. I enjoy observing my thoughts and clearing my mind while riding in nature. It is just my surroundings, my bike and me. The sport is so highly meditative for me. Since I've been riding again, I can truly say: I climbed onto my bike and found myself. Challenging yourself on steep climbs or tricky downhills and thereby improving skills and bike handling is always lots of fun and not only physically severe but also mentally demanding. It simply requires your whole self. I enjoy observing my thoughts and clearing my mind while riding in nature. It is just my surroundings, my bike and me. This makes the sport so highly meditative for me and moves me over and over again in a state of complete flow. Since I've been riding again, I can truly say: I climbed onto my bike and found myself… TO BE PIONNIER TRUE GRIT #1 Gravel is hard on your whole body and requires skill as there is so much variances in what is under the wheels. TRUE GRIT #2 I escape with just the basics: a bottle, a survival kit, something to snack on, and then we’re off on the wild roads. TRUE GRIT #3 Riding gravel requires a heightened sense of attention to anticipate how the bike is moving below you. TRUE GRIT #4 We have a beautiful National Park at our doorstep. It has endless old forestry roads and lots of climbing and descending and plenty of challenges. TRUE GRIT #5 I live, work, and play in San Francisco, California; and am always in motion, be it cycling, mountaineering, or dancing.

Gravel Riding in the Lone Star State A couple of months back, I heard a story on the radio about problems with planes making their returns to the sky. As air-traffic increased and passengers slowly reentered the world of international travel, many pilots had begun self-reporting minor mistakes, mostly procedural, none particularly dangerous—but mistakes, nonetheless. The culprit? Lack of practice. It seems that with fewer flights and long stints away from the stick, muscle memory had lapsed. Use it or lose it, as they say. So it is that we set out on what would be my first bikepacking trip since the pandemic began—physically ready, mentally prepared, but perhaps a bit soft around what used to be sharper edges of experience and routine. Selecting a destination we could easily (and in light of recent radio reports, thankfully) reach by car, we packed up and drove the seven hours from Austin, Texas to the most remote corner of our very big state, making a few stops along the way to pick up missing pieces of kit we’d predictably left at home. A lot can be said about West Texas, with its tiny towns forgotten by time and wild, wide-open landscapes, but two things are undeniably true: never trust the weather forecast and never trust people who tell you that you can. We arrived at dusk at our campsite overlooking the old ghost town in Terlingua, population 110, with the cool evening air creeping in to coincide with the darkening night sky. Our plan seemed straightforward: David and I would get up at dawn and drive to secure camping permits for the nearby Big Bend National Park, then back to camp to meet the three other members of our five-person crew before embarking on a four-day circumnavigation of the park, point to point, enjoying the primitive roads and gravel tracks awaiting within. In theory, we knew it would be hot, like really hot. All either Texas natives or having lived here for several years, we were familiar with the fiery side of Texas temperatures. The forecast was warm, but not overly so. But of course, as we were kindly, yet firmly reminded by the park ranger while requesting our permits, the numbers only tell a tiny part of the story. The sun says the rest. Having satisfied the ranger’s questions about our route, research and water rations, we made our way back to camp with permits in hand and accompanied by a new sense of foreboding at the stern, official warnings and quickly rising heat. Our first mistake came early. Packed up and rolling, we turned off the main road through Terlingua onto a smaller, gravel county road—one that would skirt around the mines and mountains while avoiding busy highway riding as we made our way to the northern edge of the National Park. Unfortunately, we had under-estimated the land-grabbiness of Texas locals, and soon encountered a “no trespassing” sign and accompanying purple painted post directly in our path on the public road. Rumors abound about the intended meaning of the Texas purple post, with its legal significance serving as shorthand for “do not enter”. But as any urban legend will tell you, its “true” meaning is something much more sinister: shoot first, ask questions later. We decided not to stick around to test this truth, backtracking to Plan B—the more direct, highway route. The detour, while lovely, had cost us over an hour and added 25km to our day—not typically terrible, but it meant extra exposure to the midday heat. After a brief stop to top off our water, we reached a series of short, steep climbs, made all the harder by our heavily laden bikes and the now-scorching sun on newly paved roads. Heartrates skyrocketed and it wasn’t long before we lost the first member of our group. This was Rob’s first fully loaded adventure, and he was already starting to feel the effects of overheating. Nearing the point of no return, his new-dad instincts for self-preservation kicked in, and he made the (ultimately smart) decision to turn back, grab the car and meet us at campsite number one. Pedal, pedal, sip…pedal, pedal, sip…You couldn’t drink fast enough to stay hydrated, and despite the effort and heat, troublingly, none of us were showing any signs of sweat. We paused briefly at the first spot of shade, chugged more water, snacked on salty foods, then rolled on. The highway was behind us as we crunched over the crushed stones of ranch roads, talking less and slowly turning our multiple liters of water into temporary relief before it invisibly evaporated from our skin into the atmosphere. Eighty kilometers in and having reached the hottest part of the day, we napped briefly in a sliver of shadow beneath a dumpster at the corner of Terlingua Ranch Road and the gravel path that would take us officially into the National Park. We were more sunscreen than human by this point and each well over halfway through our water reserves, but we only had around 50km to our first camp, and the temperatures were finally tipping. Even better, as we got rolling again down a beautiful gravel road, Rob reemerged from a cloud of dust in his bright white SUV, bringing water and reassurance that we were headed in the right direction. We covered the final kilometers beneath the fading sun as smoke rose slowly from wildfires way out on the horizon. Our camp was connected to a small RV park just outside of Big Bend, built as spillover accommodation when peak weekends see a heavy influx of out-of-towners. Relieved to have made it through the first day, we quickly realized we weren’t out of the woods (or desert) just yet. Despite our best efforts, and near-constant hydration, Mike – a cat-2 racer and very strong rider – had succumbed to low-sodium levels and severe dehydration. Soon, waves of nausea and full-body cramps mandated a trip to the hospital, over an hour away, where he’d spend the night hooked up to a series of IV bags to bring his balance back to normal. And then there were three. Waking up the next morning, we knew we’d need to re-route. The forecast was equally treacherous, and even though our original day-two plan ended with another water stop, it would put us in position to attempt days three and four with no guaranteed water for almost 200 kilometers—a risk we could no longer take. Instead, we decided to follow a more direct route, covering 100km of mostly paved roads across the park and back to our original campsite, from where we could regroup and plan the next two days. Refilled at the camp store and doubled down on electrolytes, David, Natalie and I retraced the short road back to the park before bypassing the gravel track we’d ridden in on and enjoying the smoothest tarmac federal funds can buy. By mid-morning, the sun had begun to do its thing, and with an abundance of caution, we stopped more, sipped more and sat in the shade whenever we could find any. We followed a few mellow, steady climbs towards the park’s center, with David and I beginning to feel the heat. Natalie continued, seemingly unbothered by it. A bit past the halfway point, and around the bend from the ranger station where we’d picked up our passes the day before, we took our planned lunch pause at a small service station. Meanwhile, Rob had retrieved Mike from the hospital, and they stopped by to check in as we snacked and sipped pickle juice to fight off the ever-encroaching cramps. Leaving a few bags in the car, we lightened our load for the remaining 50k and started rolling once the sun had abated a bit. From Panther Hill to Terlingua is mostly downhill, and we were happy to have the wind at our backs and the hottest part of the day behind us. But we were even more overjoyed to arrive at camp to find our tents already set up by our newly minted support crew, where we enjoyed a good meal and a relaxing night around the fire. Cloud cover greeted us at sunrise and was a welcome sight to start our morning. David, Natalie and I had decided our best ride would be to head south and into the park, following Old Maverick Road to the Rio Grande and Santa Elena Canyon; Rob and Mike figured theirs was in air-conditioned comfort all the way back to Austin, so we said goodbye and went our separate ways. The gravel tracks of Old Maverick are washboarded and bumpy but surrounded by stunning scenery. We bounced along beneath a mercifully cooler sky until we reached the high walls of Santa Elena, carved out over centuries by an unrelenting river that today draws the line between the US and Mexico. The Rio’s level was low, so we wandered upriver and into the canyon. Santa Elena is one of the most iconic features of Big Bend. As such, fellow tourists were abundant, but not overwhelming. Some asked questions and gave encouragement, and one kind man even shared muffins and water. The clouds had mostly burned off, but the temperatures remained manageable, and we began to bump our way back north towards Terlingua. Our camp was quieter with just the three of us, but compared to the previous two days’ heat, day three had been downright enjoyable, and we were happy to sit and reminisce about the decisions we’d made, both good and bad, that had led to where we were. The good decisions were simple, but significant: We’d all regularly applied sunscreen and had thus avoided being burnt. We’d planned for disaster and had options B and C as backup just in case. We’d brought as much water as we could possibly carry and had managed to never entirely run out. We’d listened, once prompted, to nature and stayed just within the safe side of our limits. But we had, of course, made one bad decision. We’d done the one thing we’d always been warned against: we’d messed with Texas—and Texas messed back. In the end, though we hit our fair share of turbulence and were forced into a few unscheduled layovers along the way, muscle memory eventually did return, and we found our way through to the other side, making one last good decision to end our trip. We bailed on day four, packed up the car and drove to Marfa for the best burritos in West Texas. After all, flying’s for the birds anyways. FURTHER RIDING True Grit #5 I live, work, and play in San Francisco, California; and am always in motion, be it cycling, mountaineering, or dancing. What is Bikepacking? A form of minimalist autonomy and the art of getting there. Coins Cachés. Ariège. Explore more, find hidden corners and lesser known places. The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. Ça peak. There is always a way to escape the madding crowds, in this case it's gravel. Finding fun on Mont Ventoux's G-Side. Slow-vénia. More gravel, less kilometers, hugging sheep and hiking bikes, reading paper maps underwater. These are the lessons from Slow-Vénia by PCR Gravier.

Coins Cachés. Pays de Galles This is a relatively short but surprisingly challenging bikepacking route from a small peninsula in the south of Wales to a similar one in the north, a route that roughly follows the ancient trackway of Sarn Helen taking in many highlights on the way. Wales is a compact and diverse country, and through this route I hope to help you discover some of its riches yourself. With its wealth of beautiful views and history, tranquil mountains and forests, small and thriving communities, and fantastic tracks and trails, the way across this green and pleasant land isn't always smooth and easy, but it's truly rewarding for the effort you put into it. There's so much more to see and explore here that I've tried to link together various outdoors exploration hotspots through an adventurous route, while hoping to make it rideable in less than a week and giving you a sense of the wonders of this beautiful part of the world. You'll certainly be pushing your bike at various points due to the rough rugged terrain and trails, but there's plenty of easier and fun riding in-between as payback for your efforts. Recommended bike is for the more MTB style, although a suitably robust gravel bike would suffice, although strong and wide tyres are a must as there's plenty of rock strewn trails to contend with. Quality waterproofs are a requisite due to the changeable climate, but with luck the weather will be sunny and you'll have tailwinds all the way. Potentially this could be ridden all year round, but it's best from spring to autumn. There's a few bothies in the central section, and plenty of campsites and other accommodation options along the way. Transport links to the start and finish are easy enough, although you'll need to ride to Worms Head from Swansea or Gowerton station. Worms Head ALL-ROAD The Gower was the first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the UK, and rightly so as it's a wonderful place to spend time and explore. Worms Head is a rocky peninsula accessable by a causeway at low tide and well worth a visit if your timing is right. The route starts at the end of the dirt road at the cliff edge, and travels around the edge of Rhosilli bay and down on a fantastic trail above the seashore. It's then into a series of short and steep climbs and descents across open grassland, and through secluded valleys. Then over Cefn Bryn, across a golf course, and through Pwll Du cove. Then it's through the Mumbles and the cycle track past Swansea, before following the Tennant and then Neath canal towpaths, before a steep climb up into the forest in the Neath valley. The surfaces you'll encounter in this section are diverse, from grass, to mud, to rocks and gravel, and also some paved roads, but mostly is traffic free. Neath Valley ALL-ROAD An extended section of forest roads leads through the edge of a quarry then through Walters Arena, an off road test track for car manufacturers, also featured in Top Gear on the BBC. After a short stretch on minor roads you get to Sarn Helen, a Roman Road that runs off and on all the to the end point in Conwy. There's not that much of it left unpaved, and it's a challenging ride even with big tyres and suspension, but it's truly atmospheric journey on the bits still there. Often wet and very rocky this extended section takes you into the Brecon Beacons national park on your way to the bustling market town of Brecon. You'll want to stock up with food here as the next place with a sizeable supermarket is Machynlleth, many hills away. From Brecon is back into the hills in a mixture of quiet lanes and trails before climbing onto the moors on another Roman Road. Then it's into the Halfway and Crychan forests. Sugar Loaf Halt ALL-ROAD Forest roads of all manner are encountered song this section, from smooth and groomed to rough and rocky, but always either climbing or descending. This is the Green Desert of Wales and the Cambrian mountains. A beautiful and empty place, and I've kept the route to the rideable trails through, as there are plenty that you can push your bike for hours on end and never turn a pedal stroke! A short stint on the Trans Cambrian Way MTB route, several sections of road riding in between nice quiet forestry and great farm tracks, then you go up a long shallow climb up past the Nantymoch reservoir and a beautiful empty valley. Nantymoch Reservoir ALL-ROAD A long descent into the Dyfi valley and Machynlleth, and you're into Snowdonia national park. This is where the mountains get steeper and the country wilder. You'll definitely be pushing your bike up a few parts of some of the climbs here, but there's not that many options, and the views and solitude make the effort worthwhile. A final climb through and stunning valley leads to the MTB trail centre of Coed y Brenin. There's loads of different levels of riding here, and on any bike you've ridden this far on you'll be able to tackle the blue trails if you want. Coed y Brenin ALL-ROAD The final section and it's no mean feat to have got this far! The track out of Coed y Brenin turns from forest road to rocky trail, and you're back onto Sarn Helen one again, and as it gets out onto the moors the views are stunning. A quick trip around a reservoir on a nice series of trails leads to a decommissioned power station, then it's a few kms on the road before a long but paved climb to a slate quarry, before a steep descent through an abandoned quarry and another MTB trail centre, Penmachno. Through various bits of forest on tracks and trails, with plenty of up and down, and you'll finally drop down to the river Conwy which you'll follow to Llandudno. Then it's a super steep last road climb onto the Great Orme to finish the route at the end of the peninsula. FOR LES COINS CACHÉS Coins Cachés. Ariège Explore more, find hidden corners and lesser known places. The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Skåne Across gentle hills, through stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and with the sea on three sides. READ MORE Coins Cachés. Suomi There's off the beaten track and then there's really off the beaten track. Central Finland has a network of routes and trails that could have been designed with gravel in mind. And in a way they were. READ MORE Summit Symphony What better way to finish the winter season on the Côte d'Azur than by combining hours in the saddle with a day in the snow on two skis. Rendez-vous at 06h30 on the Promenade de Anglais for a mountain top adventure. READ MORE The White Ventoux Climbing the infamous 'Bald Mountian' is tough in the best conditions. Sprinkle some snow and add some cold and the challenge becomes even more extreme. With the confinement continuing, it sounds like the perfect idea. READ MORE

TRUE GRIT #5 I live, work, and play in San Francisco, California; and am always in motion, be it cycling, mountaineering, or dancing. I got my first road bike after college to cross train for mountaineering. To be honest, I initially thought cycling would be boring. Boy, was I wrong. The elation, the striving, and the joy of taking the path less travelled are common elements between the two sports. In the blink of an eye, I was hooked. Most of my rides start by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, my portal to the Marin Headlands. Here, the trails climb up hills to sweeping views where the cliffs meet the ocean. On a lucky day a coyote pup or a bobcat will say hi. After a few climbs, I'll be far enough from home that the now tiny Golden Gate fits between my finger and thumb. There are little details I love. I feel the subtle variations of the trail undulate and curve beneath me. I love the sound of gravel crunching under my wheels. It reminds me of crackling wood in a fireplace or Pop Rocks candy. It's incredible how I can cover so much distance and still maintain intimacy with nature. I'm so lucky to live in a city that has incredible riding. It truly feels like I've been transported a hundred miles away. I appreciate a riding partner who has a positive mindset. Share a good laugh even if we're cold, muddy, and lost. Sometimes morning rides feel more like a morning swim through fog soup. You can revive yourself with a cup of coffee and a croissant. The Coast Ride is a three-day ride from San Francisco to Santa Barbara that has become a beloved tradition among locals. If I had one ride left I would repeat a section of this ride with the friends I've made along the way, from sunrise till sunset. Iceland is my dream destination. I've visited several times, but I've never ventured into the interior Highlands. Next time I'm back, I'd love to do so on my gravel bike. I love sharing the joy of gravel riding with friends who are "gravel-curious". The trails are so accessible here that even a short morning ride before work feels like a mini adventure. ABC (Always Bring Camera). I always ride with my camera; there is so much beauty to capture and always a good story to tell. TO BE PIONNIER TRUE GRIT #1 Gravel is hard on your whole body and requires skill as there is so much variances in what is under the wheels. TRUE GRIT #2 I escape with just the basics: a bottle, a survival kit, something to snack on, and then we’re off on the wild roads. TRUE GRIT #3 Riding gravel requires a heightened sense of attention to anticipate how the bike is moving below you. TRUE GRIT #4 We have a beautiful National Park at our doorstep. It has endless old forestry roads and lots of climbing and descending and plenty of challenges.

Coins Cachés. Keski-Suomi Buried in the heart of the country and a 270 km drive away from Helsinki. If you travel from the capital to Jyväskylä, the regional centre and largest city, you will notice how the landscape changes to what the country is best known for. It is the land of unique landscapes, a thousand lakes and even more forests. Known as the home of ski jumper Matti Nykänen and the heart of World Rally car racing. The country doesn’t have mountains but Central Finland has really nice rolling hills and some amazing and fast gravel roads. Good for bikes as well as rally cars. The almost endless crisscross of tracks means you can easily do a 100-mile gravel ride or an even longer off the grid bikepacking adventure. The gravel itself is mainly smooth and tyre friendly. If you need more technical sections, then there is a huge network of MTB trails. All of it against a backdrop of thick forests, many of them within the four different national parks. For road cycling, there are a good number of bicycle pathspaths near Jyväskylä. Once you're out of town and into the countryside there’s really no traffic to speak of. A beautiful and calm landscape, whether solo or with friends, for a short or long trip. Keski-Suomi is there to be explored. Ruuhimäki-Laukaa ALL-ROAD This 80 km gravel ride links two special stages of Rally Finland. Ruuhimäki and Laukaa are names and locations of these special stages. For many years Ruuhimäki has been the final, decisive and one of the most exciting special stages of Rally Finland. Rally cars are really flying and they can jump several meters. That means very nice up- and downhills for gravel cycling! These are some of the best gravel roads you can find in Finland, the landscape is so beautiful and the whole route is really versatile! You will see forests, lakes, farms, cows, horses, old barns, timber factory, Hyyppäänvuori look-out point for awesome scenery and a military area (watch out!). Rally stages are hilly, wide and smooth gravel roads. Sections that link these rally stages are different. Stop off at the Hyyppäänvuori look-out point for awesome scenery dotted with forests, lakes, farms, timber-yards and even a military area (watch out!). Even in winter this route is rideable if there’s not too much snow. Ouninpohja OFF-ROAD Ouninpohja is one the best known Rally special stages in a world. The ride starts from small city called Jämsä (50 km from Jyväskylä). It’s best known for the ski resort, Himos. It’s one the most popular in Finland. In summer time they organize music festivals. Pretty much right away the landscape will change to iconic countryside. In the beginning there’s some tarmac but the gravel appears quickly. Right away you will notice that there are quite a lot climbs and downhill sections. None too long but lots of them. The next 30 km are one of the most delicious gravel sections in the whole of Finland. There’s no traffic and only the local farmers for company. Just listen to the sound of gravel and admire the scenery. The loop heads back to Jämsä from west. Mostly gravel but occasional a touch of tarmac to help with weary legs. Kuusaankoski rapids ROUTE This is one of the road rides that local cycling club likes to do. It starts from Jyväskylä city with a very nice section right next to the beautiful Jyväsjärvi. No worries about cars, because the first 10 km are bicycle path. The first pit-stop is in Vaajakoski which is only 10 km away from Jyväskylä centrum. It might come too early, but it is the chance to buy some well known Finnish liquorice from the Panda factory outlet. The next stretch is 20 km to Laukaa. This time you get to ride paved roads but beware that tarmac is not perfect in everywhere. In the summer boats fill the harbour and in winter it is the chance for some ice swimming. If you dare. Heading on north from Laukaa and the next dot on the map is Kuusaankoski. There you will find beautiful rapids and one of the five canals that links Päijänne-Keitele. It's 20km home from here, back on the bicycle path. FOR LES COINS CACHÉS Coins Cachés. Skåne Across gentle hills, through stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and with the sea on three sides. VIEW MORE

Coins Cachés. Skåne Sweden might not be well-known as a cycling hotspot, although many are familiar with the country’s breathtaking scenery and versatile landscapes. Perhaps that is why the hidden gem that lies at the southernmost tip of Sweden is often overlooked. The province Scania or Skåne in Swedish. It may not be as spectacular as Swedish Lapland, but the route possibilities are almost endless. The perfect tarmac of empty roads and the forgotten gravel trails that weave deep into the woods. Since Skåne is enclosed by water from three sides, it offers a majestic coastline with forests that run all the way down to the shore and too many sandy beaches to count. The winters here are less harsh, so cycling is possible all year round. It’s easiest to reach Skåne via its capital city Malmö. The hip and upcoming city is a 20-minute train ride from the Danish international hub Copenhagen. Skåne is also accessible by ferry from Denmark, Germany and Poland. The diverse infrastructure really does offer cycling for every rider’s taste. From long (or short) coffee rides on backcountry roads to conquering the most challenging single trails for the hardcore mountain bikers. But perhaps the main attraction of Skåne is that enormous network of gravel. Unbeaten roads on gently rolling hills, running through a patchwork of farmlands and across a stunning countryside dotted with small medieval towns and settlements. Skåneleden #4 OFF-ROAD In the southeastern corner of Skåne you’ll find the fourth etappe of Skåneleden. This spectacular but challenging loop of 170 kilometers offers all the beauty Skåne has to offer. The route starts with low-density woodlands and finishes off along white, sandy beaches and a rugged coastline. The Skåneleden is initially designed as a hiking trail. But Sweden has a unique law that allows all people to enjoy nature and outdoors: the ‘allemansrätten’. The ‘allemansrätten’, translated as everyman’s right, invites everyone to freely roam in almost every form of outdoor activities, like cycling, swimming and even berry picking. The inland part of the trail follows small gravel roads and technical singletrails. Stunning scenery with lush forests and pristine lakes slowly transform into views with coastal meadows and seashores. Right after Kivik, famous for its apple orchards, lies the coastal hills of Stenshuvud National Park. The route is very suitable for the adventurous cyclist. Dotted along the trail are various vindskydds (wind shelters). These wooden structures make the perfect shelter against the elements and are free to use. Equipped with a fireplace they make for the perfect bikepacking getaway. Scanian coast to coast OFF-ROAD This coast to coast ride starts at the Öresund, a strait which forms the natural border between Denmark and Sweden. On the other side you finish at the bay of Hanöbukten in the Baltic sea. The ride leads you across the southern axis of Skåne from one coast to another, partly along the coastline with sandy beaches and typical Swedish sommarstugas. Expect every Scanian characteristic in optima forma. Leaving from Ribersborgs Kallbadhuset, a spa with seaside view, the ride starts with an easy spin away from the city centre of Malmö. It doesn’t take long until farmland appears on the horizon. During spring the fields are covered with rapeseed flowers, creating a blanket of bright yellow. When autumn is over, most of the fields are brown and bare. But during winter the fields light up in shades of green, with bright white snow covering the crops. Although Skåne is considered flat, some punchy climbs need to be conquered. Further inland the route follows the undulating shapes of the rolling landscape. As you cross the countryside, you’ll see plenty of remnants of the rich cultural and agricultural heritage such as ancient castles. There are little settlements everywhere with beautiful cobblestoned streets and pastel coloured houses with half-timbered facades. The finish line is in Simrishamn, a small coastal town full of charm. One of the many restaurants in the old fishing port is a great place to end the day and try out the local cuisine, marinated herring or deliciously prepared goose. From Simrishamn you can easily hop on the train, to take you back to Malmö. Or you could cycle along the Sydkustleden all along the coast. Malmö’s frozen backyard Häckeberga OFF-ROAD Just a stone’s throw away from Malmö’s city centre, you’ll be rewarded with all the charm Skåne has to offer. Out of Malmö you roll straight into a winter wonderland of nature and freedom. This route runs through a stunning mix of woodlands and farmlands. Landscapes vary from ancient pastures, rolling fields and expansive forests. As you navigate along the zig-zagging loop you’ll come across Häckeberga Nature reserve. It’s one of the most valuable forest habitats in Skåne, with lush pine forests and rocky double-tracked gravel roads. Roughly halfway along the route lies Romeleåsen; a thirty kilometer long ridge with elevation up to 175 metres above sea level. The highest point - Romeleklint cliff - gives you a stunning panoramic view over dense needle forests and extensive valleys. On a clear day you are even able to see Malmö’s famous skyscraper, Turning Torso, in the far distance. Stop for a nice fika before you race to the finish line. Having a fika pretty much just means taking a coffee break, but for Swedes it entails so much more. It isn’t the coffee or the pastry that all the fuss is about, it’s the social part of it. Fika is deeply rooted into Swedish culture and Torups Castle, at only five kilometres from the end of this route, is just the perfect place. Backroads, castles and lakes ROUTE This ride is characterized by Skåne's charming castles, beautifully located on the banks of little lakes. No less than six lakes are on today’s menu. All of them linked together by quiet backroads. The route starts at Svaneholms Slott. Built around the 1530s, this castle lies on the shore of Lake Svaneholmssjön. From here the road leads east and follows beautiful hilly landscapes. Near Skårby a sharp left-hand turn will set your course northbound. With farmlands at both sides you’ll pass Ellestadsjön and Snogeholmssjön. Both, of course, with their own stately castle next to them. The remaining part of the ride takes you through a much greener part of the region. The country roads intersect through wooded areas with old beech and oak trees. If you're lucky, and you keep your eyes open, you’ll also have the chance to spot the local wildlife. The area is home to many kinds of raptors and three species of deer. After a gentle descent you’ll find yourself in the Häckeberga nature area. A stunning road with trees completely overhanging the road marks the last stretch of the ride. But not before passing by castle Häckeberga, located near the lake with the same name. The medieval castle is a great place for a coffee break, before the last kilometres to the final destination. FOR LES COIN CACHÉS TRUE GRIT #3 Riding gravel requires a heightened sense of attention to anticipate how the bike is moving below you. VIEW MORE THE NORTH CAPE Thousands of kilometers north to avoid rabid dogs and make friends with reindeers on an Audax adventure. VIEW MORE La Diagonale Draw a diagonal line straight across France, from Brest to Menton, in red, white and blue. Then ride it. VIEW MORE European Divide Trail Finding a new route across Europe in between civilization. Andy Cox explains the concept behind the European Trail Divide. VIEW MORE WHAT IS GRAVEL ? The definition of gravel cycling is wide. Gravel is all things to all riders, it can be what you want it to be. VIEW MORE

The White Ventoux These days it’s all about being adaptable, imaginative even. With the boundaries of the possible drawn tight, exploring or rediscovering our local playgrounds is often the only option. That or nothing which is no choice at all. We shouldn’t complain when close at hand we have Mont Ventoux. The snow fell almost everywhere in France in recent days except on our side of the Mediterranean. It seemed unfair to miss out and if the snow won’t come to us, the easy decision is to go to find it. And close at hand we have Mont Ventoux. Call it a whim or blame Denis but either way we decided to make a winter attempt on the giant of Provence. The plan was to take the classic route from Bedoin then a descent on the north face to Malaucène. After a week of sub-zero temperatures, the announcement of a thaw was the starting gun. With the idea to ride on compact snow and the confidence of reaching Chalet Reynard without trouble. And the second part was kind of true. The thaw was serious, even too serious in fact. The snow had quickly become soft and sticky and slowed down our climb. We can’t lie, we walked a lot. But as much as we walked, we laughed. And that always balances out the problems faced. Any time you set off to discover new trails through the mountains, it is not uncommon to hit the limit even of a gravel bike. If you want to find new routes, carrying your bike on sections that are too steep becomes inevitable, it's all part of the game. In this case, after reaching so far, it would have been a shame to turn back. There was a childish satisfaction of crossing this impassable pass and that was almost rewarding enough. Throwing snowballs at each other like four kids in a playground is not part of your usual ride. Balancing prudence, carelessness and warm clothing, the descent goes smoothly, allowing us to finish this highly unusual winter loop. It was unique and a completely fresh version of a tried and tested route. Which ultimately was the whole point. After all, when was the last time you did something for the first time? More from Ventoux Ça peak There is always a way to escape the madding crowds, in this case it's gravel. Finding fun on Mont Ventoux's G-Side. VIEW MORE Beach to Bonette A cycling version of transhumance which, like any serious ride, is best broken down into the parts that make up the whole. The whole being from the sea to the sky, from the beach to Bonette. VIEW MORE Bike Ski At 1600m up, deep within the Mercantour National Park, surrounded by snow-covered peaks, the pick-up truck is being loaded two by two. Bikes, check. Skis, check. Mountain packs, check. VIEW MORE Rally Monte-Vélo Whether you are on the bike or in a car, both are sharing the public roads and rough terrain. Welcome to Rally Monte-Vélo. VIEW MORE

The Two Volcano Sprint Four days, seven hours and six minutes. This is the exact time it took me to complete the 1100 km and 22 000 m elevation of the last bikepacking race of the season. When you think about it, it’s not long when compared to the free time that unfortunately opened up this year. All the ongoing doubts, all the cancelled and postponed challenges, all the opening and closing of the borders somehow made it feel a short four days. And yet it was long, and it was certainly intense. A fantastic race, alongside a cast of international and experienced riders, which largely kept its promise of huge volcanoes, exceptional coffees and a range of masterly pizzas. Napoli. As lively as any melting pot metropolis and the jumping-off point for a chaotic ride to escape; via its suburbs, between rubbish dumps, and on misshapen and rain-soaked cobblestones to arrive at the small town of Ercolano, the ‘real’ starting point at the foot of Monte Vesuvio. A quiet place with good restaurants which brings reunions with old friends, the registration procedure and an exciting "pizza briefing" to remind us of the main features of the upcoming adventure. Around me are famous riders, at least in this world. The likes of James, Sofiane, Ulrich, Fanny, Adrien, Omar and many more. All of them able to win races, all of them consistently appearing in the top 10 of events. But those who will inhabit the middle and back of the pack are equally interesting. There are more familiar faces, riders that I’ve already ""shared"" several Transcontinental races with or other long-distance adventures. The fight between riders promises to be tight, the tension rises slowly. But the good kind, the kind that makes you want to go forward and overcome all of the inevitable obstacles. It is still dark when we start. Monte Vesuvio is easy enough but once into the second climb, the Faito, the peloton begins to stretch out a little. No prisoners taken. A high pace from the off and smalls gaps between each rider. Just a stop to fill a bidon could lose 6 or 7 places which are then made up a few kilometres later when the other riders take a break. The big "yoyo" of the classification is constant in that first 24 hours, finally settling down on the second day. The first retirements arrive quickly but then slow down. Those able to go deep into the second day will almost all get to the end. To me it is the sign of a nice adventure and the level of the participants: except in the case of serious accidents, once launched, "scratching is not an option". I had romanticized Calabria. A lot. Maybe too much. I expected an irregular and tough terrain, physically hard for the body but I hoped the contrast would be charming roads, welcoming cafes every 10 km and as many pizzerias. It wasn't quite like that. Calabria is obviously a beautiful region with small roads winding endlessly through the massifs and occasionally leading to the villages I had imagined. But the atmosphere is rough, poor, dirty in places. Stray dogs wandering between upturned bins and adept at hunting cyclists. And the virus has passed through here so few restaurants are open. Pizzas are only available in the evening. But there are still local smiles when you least expect them. It's already October and yet during the day there are mild temperatures and sunny weather, although you have to deal with the high humidity. And the move between hot and cold depending on whether you're climbing or descending. The endless climbs are gradually demoralizing and can make you sink into a kind of melancholy, this latent enemy that is called ‘doubt’. Familiar to all bikepacking riders it can gnaw away at everyone and the antidote is simply to push on and don’t forget to enjoy all the positives along the way. Anything you climb, you go down. The dogs? Will make you go faster. The moisture? As usual, I had taken "a little too much" clothing, which in the end, was all used: Not forgetting the panino delicacies, one to eat-in, another in the pocket for later. A fast forming habit. And for coffees, if the bar is shut, locals are often happy to offer them. Then, almost suddenly, at the end of the third day, it is the last pass of continental Italy and the sea comes back into sight, some 1000 m. lower than last time we saw it. There’s a dizzying descent full gas towards the Strait of Messina, the ferry and the long-awaited promise of Sicily. Two arancini and three sodas. All I have time to buy on the ferry before attacking the first pass as soon as I arrive, determined to reach the other side of the island before it gets dark. Then a few kilometres by the sea in the evening before the last massifs during the night. All the way until the end, almost. Everything was there, the light, the villages animated as they woke up, the encouragement during the climb of the volcano, which has been grumbling for a few days with its strange smoke that makes you remain quite humble. It is there, orange at the first glimmer, then raw, black, at its summit. It is exactly as I had dreamed, a gentle villain. It's south side is brutal, the Giro d'Italia didn't pass through here a few days ago, they took on the other side. Here the ground is torn apart by this mountain of lava, rough, which takes more from you than it gives back. But as you climb it gets softer and smoother, as if to thank you for visiting it. Any rider will let themself be seduced, and galvanized by the emotion of finishing an immense adventure and by the cinematic vision that is offered to them. In the middle of the descent, sharp rocks to the left, sea to the right, full gas. So 26th in the end. A proper finish line, screams, beer, jokes and friends. Everything in its place and a feeling that I can't wait for next season. More from Manivelle TCR No. 7 The Transcontinental Race is a magical mountain. A mountain littered with traps which require riders to combine their physical prowess with a sense of cunning. VIEW MORE Due North Since our London Store opened, it's been on the 'to do' list. The task? Join the Café du Cycliste dots and ride from HQ in Nice to the big smoke. VIEW MORE Due South The “DUE” series is symbolic. It’s an invention, a good excuse, a perfect justification. VIEW MORE La Diagonale Draw a diagonal line straight across France, from Brest to Menton, in red, white and blue. Then ride it. VIEW MORE

Coins Cachés. Ariege The Ariège nestles in the central Pyrénées. It’s a region rich in history and biodiversity and it remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. An area of extraordinary natural beauty, it feels wild and remote and largely undiscovered, although it is surprisingly accessible. Just an hour south of Toulouse, it rests on the border with Spain and Andorra. Off the beaten track and away from the madding crowd, it’s a place suited to those who like the simple things in life. The varied topography makes the Ariège Pyrénées a cyclist’s nirvana and you’ll breathe the cleanest air in the country as you ride up high-mountain passes, over rolling hills and along flat river valleys. The scenery is just breath taking. The Ariège offers a seemingly never-ending, intricate network of blissfully quiet and diverse routes that appear purposely designed to entertain every type of cyclist. You can ride in the shadows of magnificent Cathar châteaux, into and out of medieval villages, along mind-blowing river gorges, through vineyards, traverse foothills covered in deciduous forests and climb into the majestic high Pyrénées. As the perfect base from which to explore, the Zero Neuf retreat is located in the ‘Portes d’Ariège’. And on any trip, one thing is for certain: experience, adventure and escape are guaranteed. The Grand Cols d’Ariège ROUTE This is a ride steeped in history and takes you into the high Pyrénées where you will climb in the shadows of Tour de France greats. You’ll ascend the Col d’Agnès, a tough but beautiful climb close to the frontier with Spain and the Col de Port, first used by Le Tour in 1910 when the first rider over its summit was Octave Lapize. You will ride through the wonderful mountainside village of Cominac with its unique stone houses and front row views of the majestic Mont Vallier. You can stop for a coffee amongst the Baroque buildings in the ancient spa town of Aulus les Bains and sit in awe of the giant peaks that form the imposing border with Spain. The descent from the summit of the Col d’Agnès down to the fascinating village of Massat is fast and technical, passing the clear and inviting waters of Etang de Lers en route. From Massat you pick up the old RN618 or ‘Route des Pyrénées, immortalised by the Tour de France. It’s a steady climb to the summit of the Col de Port, and the views over the Massat valley as you ascend are fabulous. A moment’s pause at the summit to admire the high peaks along the Vallée d’Ax and the border with Andorra before another fast descent down to the valley floor and the village of Tarascon sur Ariège. From here you’ll follow the river Ariège to the medieval town and narrow streets of Foix where a well-deserved drink in the shadow of the town’s magnificent chateau awaits. VIEW IN NUMBERS The Grotte Loop ROUTE Ease yourself into the day rolling along flat, blissfully quiet roads surrounded by fields of sunflowers, the majestic high mountains in constant view. Once over the river Ariège, you’re into the village of Rieux de Pelleport and the Pre-Pyrénées. A couple of short climbs through dense woodland follow, the sound of cowbells and birdsong your only company. A right hand turn at the foot of the Pas de Portel and you’re onto the D1a; a 15km stretch of pristine tarmac sitting in the shadow of the Montagne du Plantaurel. The D1a brings you to Mas d’Azil and a welcome stop at Le Bistrot café. Next up it’s a jaw dropping 500m stretch of road through the heart of one of the Grande Sites des Pyrénées; the Grotte du Mas d’Azil, a prehistoric cave carved out of the Plantaurel rock by the river Arize. A left hand turn over the river Arize and you’re climbing through ancient oak forests where deer and wild boar roam. The only civilisation on route the sleepy village of Allières; it’s feels like you’ve been transported back in time to a world far away from busy modern lives. VIEW IN NUMBERS The Brewery Loop ROUTE A day to enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the Ariège and its neighbouring department, the Aude. The ride starts with an easy spin, due south along the lush L’Hers valley towards the imposing peeks of the Tarbe Massif. A left hand turn in the medieval bastide town of Mirepoix takes you to the picture-postcard villages of Camon, Sonnac sur L’Hers and the capital of the Quercorb region Chalabre, a quintessentially French town with plane tree-lined boulevards, shady streets and quiet alleyways. The land is rich and verdant, fruit farms are abundant and the first vines of the Languedoc Rousillon wine-growing region grow here. Given its proximity to the High Pyrénées, the terrain is surprisingly flat and forgiving. A mid ride pause at Brasserie du Quercorb for a delicious ‘bière artisanal’ and a few slices of local charcuterie and fromage is a must. You can take one of several routes back but one that includes the climb to the ancient Cathar château of Montségur is recommended, followed by a post-ride dip in the clear waters of L’Hers to finish. VIEW IN NUMBERS The Grand Traverse d’Ariège OFF-ROAD Starting in the thermal spa town of Ax-Les-Thermes (complete with springs of hot sulphurous water) and finishing at Zero Neuf, the GTA can be ridden as a self-supported three-day bike-packing adventure or in bite-sized individual sections. Whichever way you decide ride it, you will be treated to everything this wonderful region has to offer the off-road adventurer. You’ll navigate single-track GR routes amongst brooding woodland and wide double-track trails high above the tree line close to the Andorran and Spanish borders, where vultures soar and bears roam. The GTA also takes you into steep-sided river gorges, mind-blowing in their scale and beauty and across high pasture filled with the sound of cowbells and wild flowers in summer. The route then picks up the pristine gravel of the region’s wonderful Voie Verte, these car-free routes have been reclaimed from the ancient railway network. The shaded squares in the ancient towns and villages on route are perfect for a beer or coffee stop. VIEW IN NUMBERS Forgotten Frontiers OFF-ROAD Starting and finishing in the village of Couflens this is a loop like no other. The elevation ranges from 560m to the route’s highest point at 2260m. You are deep into the Ariège here, amongst the highest peaks of the Pyrénées, it’s a wild and beautiful land. Height is gained quickly as you leave the river Sarlat behind and begin the breath-taking ascent to the border with Spain. The first part of the route is a road climb and a series of hairpin bends that bring you to a cluster of ancient stone huts and the transition to double-track gravel. The serpent-like road hugs the mountain; an ancient track cut out of the land by mountain men and women of old. A sweeping left hand bend and a hairpin right brings you to the summit of the Col de Pause – an apt name considering you are stopped in your tracks by the vista. You are then rewarded with a truly incredible 5km stretch of double track gravel; a series of switchbacks lacing a path up the mountainside. It feels like a stairway to heaven. As you reach the Port d’Aula (at 2,260m one of many forgotten frontiers with Spain) your return to France via the Port Salau is tantalisingly close. VIEW IN NUMBERS Farm Tracks & River Crossings OFF-ROAD The fertile flood plains of the river Hers have been farmed for centuries and there is a vast network of tracks and trails as a result, perfect for off-road adventures. If we add local sections of the GR78 and the disused railway lines that brought workers to the once industrial town of Pamiers, you can spend many hours tearing around dirt without straying more than 20km from your base. This car free playground is a gift that keeps on giving; north, south, east or west it matters not the direction you take - the loops can be shortened or lengthened depending on your mood. In summer months, when the river runs shallow and warm, you can make crossings by fording, picnic on deserted beaches and banks and wild swim to cool yourself down. VIEW IN NUMBERS FOR LES COINS CACHÉS BIKE PACKING Different methods and style mean there are many variables in the make-up of every bikepacking adventure. VIEW MORE Two Volcanos A group of intrepid riders, taking in two volcanos and more than one thousand kilometres. VIEW MORE Jurasick Park The PCR Gravier collective is back with one more adventure – a grand traverse of the Jura mountains. VIEW MORE Le Morvan A small corner of paradise where time seems to have stopped and gravel started. VIEW MORE

TRUE GRIT #4 I live in a semi-rural area called Highvale. It’s in the hinterland about 40 minutes west of Brisbane. That's Brisbane in Queensland, Brisbane in Australia. A million people, a beautiful climate and a place that's great for all kinds of cycling. I didn't really start until I was about 21 but I was hooked from my very first ride. Just the sense of adventure and being outdoors. It gets me out in nature and takes me places that people wouldn’t normally visit. The best way to see the world is on a bike. There’s nothing more meditative than listening to the endless crunch of gravel under your tires. Gravel riding is the most peaceful kind of riding where I feel most immersed in my environment. It’s bike riding in its simplest, purest form: Just me, my machine, my thoughts and my surroundings. The best thing is simply the freedom. When I’m out bush I need to rely on my gear to get me home no matter what. I usually ride quite long distances and I’m often pushing hard. The route I took is special because it captures everything that’s beautiful about where I live. I want to look back at the map and see how far from civilisation I’ve been . I’ve ridden all over, in some amazing places. We have a beautiful National Park at our doorstep. It has lots of climbing and descending and plenty of challenges. Views all the way to the ocean, incredible subtropical rainforest, peaceful rolling hills in the valley, and the old timber-getters’ trails through the bush. Sometimes there really is no place like home. I’m always prepared for every eventuality because a lot of my rides take me waaay off the beaten track and out of mobile reception – I need to be able to fix anything that goes wrong! I take a full kit of tools and spares, lots of good snacks, some cash – oh and water purifying tablets - there’s not a lot of taps on my rides! TO BE PIONNIER TRUE GRIT #1 Gravel is hard on your whole body and requires skill as there is so much variances in what is under the wheels. TRUE GRIT #2 I escape with just the basics: a bottle, a survival kit, something to snack on, and then we’re off on the wild roads. WHAT IS GRAVEL ? The definition of gravel cycling is wide. Gravel is all things to all riders, it can be what you want it to be. TRUE GRIT #3 Riding gravel requires a heightened sense of attention to anticipate how the bike is moving below you. JURASICK PARK The grand traverse of the Jura mountains is a bike trip that runs the length of the natural border between France and Switzerland. THE NORTH CAPE Thousands of kilometers north to avoid rabid dogs and make friends with reindeers on an Audax adventure.

Pioneering Is Still Possible : Creating The European Divide Trail Andy Cox is a modern-day pioneer. He may not be the first person to have upped sticks to leave for an overland adventure, but he’s one of the few who have made it their lifestyle, their life mission perhaps. The result? Andy has paved the way to the lost, the forgotten, or simply the empty places. He’s found a way to live a bikepacking life almost entirely in these spaces that exist in between civilization. And he’s on one final pioneering ride before sharing the fruits of his endeavours, via the European Divide Trail. There's a cliche that says that a journey starts with a single footstep, and while that's true in some respects, where it really starts is with the the initial idea, the plan, the concept, the vision. To have a grand plan for an adventure is to take a step away from normal life, but to follow through with such a thing takes courage, knowing that you're leaving a more predictable existence behind. When I left my home in Wales and started cycling, more than three years and 65,000km ago, I was looking for a route to follow. I didn't have the confidence back then to pioneer my own route, but I did have some criteria for it: - Not too hard - Mostly off road and mostly on dirt roads - Mostly pedalable on a loaded bike - Away from the obvious and busy places - No 'pointless' climbing, (by that I mean if there's a way around a hill, on dirt, that's not much longer than going over the hill, then use the easier option) - The difficulty should be in the distance rather than the technical/rough riding. - Use quiet lanes or traffic free options as well. In short, a route that could be ridden and enjoyed for months at a time, without the need for weeks off to recover in between from it's severity. Europe has lots of bikepacking routes, and potential for many more. In fact, in lots of ways it has more potential than most other places in the planet due to a few things: - Many thousands of years of continuous civilisation - Differing access policies from county to country, but mostly quite lenient for bike access - Diverse cultures and geography - Relatively small size - Great transport links I found that what was missing were easier and longer routes. As I rode a few of the more established bikepacking routes throughout my first year I was finding that they increasingly didn't fit my criteria. That’s not too say that they are bad routes, just not to my preference. Mostly this was due to them being too hard or having too many pointless climbs. I don't personally need to go to a shop or have somewhere official to sleep everyday, and once I've gained some elevation, I like to keep it for a while if I can. So after a sustained period of feeling that there was some kind of disconnect between my goals as a dirt road tourist and the designers of these routes, I started asking more people like myself what they thought of the routes they rode. A lot of them, I was finding, had similar experiences. I discovered there was a need for these longer, more dirt road touring style routes, similar to the Great Divide MTB route, that spawned the Tourdivide race.   All of a sudden I found myself looking at a blank page….or should I say an un-marked map. Which was momentarily daunting until I realized the obvious solution. I had a huge back-catalogue of ride routes from three years of bouncing around the continent in every direction. Time to flick through them, zoom in for the detail, zoom out for the bigger picture. Can they be stitched together to make a European version of the Tour Divide? The point being to make something new, something that fit my criteria, but also something that I could share. Breaking it into northern, central and southern sections made sense to me. The endless Taiga forest in the North may seem monotonous from a satellite or map view, but once you’re in it you find a surprising variation of riding. There are mountains and valleys in amongst the trees. Central Europe is like playing a game of Connect Four : piecing together a route through the patchwork of possibilities. Single-track, then farm road, a forest road leading into a hamlet and then onto a cycle track before peeling off through a field and into a forest again, to be repeated until you're dizzy with turning after turning, amazed at the variety of the places you pass through. In the south high plateau turns to brushy scrubland, into dry farmland, then through the unexpected delights of gorges and mountain ranges. The south is wilder than you might expect, emptier than the maps might say, more varied than a dry environment has a right to be. The book that had the greatest influence on me is called ‘Clear Waters Rising’, by Nicholas Crane. It's a travel book about a walk the author undertook from Cape Finisterre in north western Spain to Istanbul in the late 1980s, completely under his own power. He used no vehicles, but also no lifts or escalators either, and certainly no cable cars when he climbed Mont Blanc in the winter.   It inspired me to try and look at travel my own way. It has been three years of trial and error doing that on my bike across Europe. To find the routes that fit my criteria I found myself going places other people don’t and living an existence on the edge of civilization. It’s now time bring it all together. So from Grense Jakobselv in Norway, with its border with Russia and the Arctic Ocean, to Cabo St Vincente in Portugal on the Atlantic coast I tried to filter out some of the highlights, to make some sort of backbone to what will become The European Divide Trail.

TRUE GRIT #3 I live in Brooklyn, NY - so a city girl - but soon I’ll be dividing my time between here and a cabin in the woods upstate, in the beautiful western Catskills. I rode as a child around the neighborhood, then didn’t “rediscover” bikes till I was an adult. What began as a means of transportation slowly evolved into the reason to go somewhere, and in 2014, I went all in on cycling. Discovering new places and adventures is what motivates and excites me. Once, that landscape was NYC but now it is usually something very different. Riding gravel requires a heightened sense of attention to anticipate how the bike is moving below you. It’s not as predictable as riding pavement, so I like that it asks more of the rider - a different sensibility, a new awareness. Upstate NY is underrated, in my opinion - we don’t have huge mountains or long climbs like Colorado or California, but there is a cozy, human scale to the landscape and the variation is also thrilling. You can easily get lost in this wonderland! It’s a vast area to explore - between Minnewaska State Park and the neighboring Mohonk Preserve. In the fall, the colors can be amazing as the leaves change. There are over 100 miles of gravel track to explore. And the setting is absolutely stunning. Called “The Gunks” for short, it's not that far from NYC but seems relatively undiscovered for many city cyclists. The setting is absolutely stunning. Waterfalls, crystalline sky lakes, sheer cliffs and ledges with sweeping views. Some of the more beautiful tracks I’ve ridden around the world have been on gravel - carriage roads leading to mountaintop views and alpine lakes in upstate NY; chunky, hypoxic switchbacks in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Plenty of destinations in Europe are still high on my to-do list - it’s the combination of stellar riding + exploring small villages and towns (and their food + people) that appeal to me most! We’re setting our sights on the Torino-Nice Rally route next year. It’s never lonely riding a bike - and the connection to other riders is immediate and tangible. It’s often a struggle to have delicious things on a ride, but my favorite are homemade rice cakes with almond butter and bacon (thanks, Scratch!). Getting fresh, warm apple cider doughnuts from an apple farm are a close second. TO BE PIONNIER TRUE GRIT #1 Gravel is hard on your whole body and requires skill as there is so much variances in what is under the wheels. THE INVENTOR Cessole is the person credited for pioneering the mountains that form the last chain of the Southern Alps. ON THE INCA TRAIL In the shadows of the Tramnuntana, Inca is Mallorca’s third-largest town and is situated nearly in the middle of the Island. BIKEPACKING GUIDE Different methods and style mean there are many variables in the make-up of every bikepacking adventure. TRUE GRIT #2 I escape with just the basics: a bottle, a survival kit, something to snack on, and then we’re off on the wild roads. NICE GRAVEL GUIDE Look on the map to find the vast network of dashed-white lines that climb to cols, traverse national parks and connect perched villages.