SOPHIE GATEAU | Adventure in the Ardennes
Flag Gazette 04/10

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SOPHIE GATEAU | Adventure in the Ardennes

SOPHIE GATEAU | Adventure in the Ardennes The heatwave of summer 2023, which blasted through the southern half of France, was in the end a blessing. Our initial bikepacking project in the Pro-vençal mountains suddenly presented itself as a crossing of a furnace rather than an adventure discovering the trails of the backcountry. So, we switched channels. Goodbye cicadas and hello frites, our summer will be spent in Belgium. Over the years, I have compiled a hit-list of routes to ride one day or another, and thanks to the excellent site bikepacking.com, I had gratefully spotted a 366km offroad trail nestled in the mountainous forests of south-eastern Belgium. The route is lovingly called Ardennes Arbalète and the creator, Kevin Machtelinckx, declares it to get straight to the heart of the matter – adventure... We opt for a two-step approach. By taking the train to Charleville-Mézières, a station close to the Franco-Belgian border, we give ourselves time to gauge what awaits us by approaching the Ardennes massif via the long cycle path along the banks of the river Meuse. It drags us towards the hills, as if it has caught us in its tractor beam. The tone is set, tourists are rare, the landscapes are magnificent, and the temperatures are mild. The Franco-Belgian border no longer exists, materially speaking, so we cross it virtually at the bend of a stony path. Only the car registration plates indicate that we have moved into another coun-try. History is always present, however. The Ardennes were the scene of fierce fighting during the two world wars, and the memorials and defensive construc-tions which line the route constantly remind us of the madness and fury of mankind. But mankind also creates as well as destroys, and following a trail made by someone else is a most pleasant experience. We let ourselves be carried off on a mystery tour that this person has beautifully constructed. We wonder why they chose to take us this way, rather than that. We abandon ourselves and we enjoy the moment. Ardennes Arbalète is a mix of beautiful rolling forest tracks, small roads without cars and single-file trails that are a little difficult but always allow two wheels to traverse successfully. The name Ardennes is said to be of Celtic in origin, meaning ‘dark and deep’. This term applies entirely to the dense forests that we cross as well as the black slate cliffs that pierce the landscape here and there. We imagine a land of ancient legends and magical creatures living in these massifs which seem impenetrable by mere mortals. Forests alternate with steep valleys, peat bogs with verdant pastures, moors with rocky escarpments, and multiple rivers with ancient stone villages. The region is also full of campsites which often introduce us to the local gas-tronomy, always accompanied by a very local beer. If you’ve been to Belgium you will be more than aware of the huge number of breweries per square metre. Most impressive and highly refreshing. Our bikes are fitted with tyres to get through even the trickiest of trails, and our panniers are kept light to maintain manoeuvrability on steep paths. Our pace is intentionally slow, no more than 70-80 kilometres per day to be able to enjoy and appreciate the countryside we are discovering. We complete the trail in eight days without rushing, returning home with a crazy desire to come back as soon as possible. READ MORE A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne. Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. Sculpting the Seine River Trail - Sophie Gateau. A river is an invitation to travel, a reptilian receptacle of a million stories, a living, majestic guideline to new places. Trail Running Guide Mallorca. A demanding yet highly rewarding territory not just for cyclists, but also runners, you can really uncover this enchanting island in the middle of the Mediterranean with just a pair of running shoes. The Major Seven - 3 riders, 7 mountains, 24 hours. Yes, it’s the adventure of the summer, the Forever Outsiders spirit, an unforgettable experience with a little bit of a laugh (and maybe some tears).

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