Col de la Colmiane : Nos Montagnes à la Carte #13 The name Colmiane originates from the alpine occitan dialect version - la Cuòla miana - and translates into ‘medium mountain’. This road is a classic connecting mountain pass that links the Tinée and Vésubie valleys. But the label of medium should not make the exploring cyclist underestimate either the physical challenge or the alpine beauty that it delivers. There is a ski station at the top, high peaks all around and the western side measures 16.3km in length. It is a proper mountain. It’s mostly the professional racing scene which refers to the pass as ‘La Colmiane’. Locals know it better as Col St-Martin. The ‘Martin’ is connected to the town that lies at the base of the eastern side of the climb, Saint-Martin-Vésubie. Nicknamed the ‘Suisse Niçoise’ it is famous locally and internationally as a mountaineering hub. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was from here that one of the local pioneers, Count Victor de Cessole, dedicated his life to exploring and documenting the peaks of the Alpes-Maritimes, building trails, refuges and photographing the change in the mountains as they become a more and more popular playground for humankind. It’s hard not to think that had Victor been born some 100 years later, he might well have also been an avid cyclist. And the Col de la Colmiane would have been one of the Count’s regular climbs. The climb of the eastern side starting from Saint-Martin-Vésubie is the shorter, steeper version at 7.3km and an average gradient of 7%. Unless of course you ride up the Vésubie valley in which case your legs will tell you it’s a much longer climb. From Lantosque it’s 23km with a 4.5% average slope. It’s a long loop from Nice, with Saint-Martin-Vésubie being some 60km away from the coast. The real beauty however comes in those final 7km after the town. The views from the hairpins on the climb to the high peaks of Argentera and Gélas are stunning and the roadside fir trees convince you that the air you are breathing is a pretty pure source of oxygen. The other, western side of the climb is similarly testing, at 16.3km long. Here you will find a valley that is almost entirely untouched by modern development. Just like the description of Count de Cessole’s early work : “villages frozen in a kind of eternity, lands of labor, places of worship”. This is the side that the Tour de France will climb in June 2020 (more on that later). Each of the four villages that dot the ascent proudly display the typical pastel mountain colours of their numerous counterparts of the Arrière-Pays. Le Planet, La Bolline, La Roche, and finally Saint Dalmas all sprout church spires amongst the groups of terraced village houses, finished with adobe features including aged wooden facades and slate tiles. Above the climb, up a branch road near the Tinée valley is the small hamlet of Rimplas where evidence of the effect of World War II can be seen. There is a large bunker that forms part of the Tinée valley network of forts and which now boasts a tennis court outside it. During the war the Alpes-Maritimes were occupied by the Italian Fourth Army from 11 November 1942 onwards. The sympathy of the Italian authorities caused the area to become a safe haven for thousands of Jewish refugees, who were relocated to Saint-Martin-Vésubie. After the Italian Armistice in September 1943, and under direct threat from the German authorities, a thousand of Saint-Martin's Jews made the climb up the Old Salt Road mountain trails, over the high passes towards the safety of Italy. If you hike north east to the Col de la Fenestre you will find a stone shelter built into the mountain side where Jews hid for months on end. All the remaining Jews in Saint-Martin were arrested and transported to Auschwitz. It's a haunting past not immediately evident in such the picturesque location, and a good reminder to enjoy the freedom to be able to ride for leisure in such beautiful places. And whilst the hikers seek the high peaks, visiting tourists go to visit the Wolf Park at Le Boréon, the adventuring cyclist can find space and tranquility on the Col de la Colmiane. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. VIA STRAVA

Mont Chauve: Nos montagnes à la carte #12 Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless, it is hidden. Who comes up here? Local mountain bikers know the trails, and at weekends the people of Nice take to the paths to walk their dogs, but most road cyclists give it a miss. They do not even know there’s a road up, which leaves it deliciously free for the locals. ‘Mont Chauve’ means the 'bald mountain' – it is the miniature Niçois version of the much better known ‘Mont Chauve’, Mont Ventoux, in Provence. It may be considerably inferior in height to the Giant of Provence, but Nice’s Mont Chauve is superior in numbers. There are actually two peaks: the Mont Chauve de Tourette (785m) and the Mont Chauve d’Aspremont (853m). It is near this latter that the road leads. While many would judge the real climb to be about 5km long, starting just outside the village of Falicon, perched high between the Var and the Paillon rivers, one of the main attractions for local bike riders is that it can be accessed from any one of myriad roads leading from central Nice. Take the Cimiez road up from Café du Cycliste on the Port, past Queen Victoria’s favourite hotel, Roman ruins and the Chagall and Matisse museums. Thread your way past the tower blocks of Las Planas, or even tackle the incredibly steep Vieux Chemin de Gairaut. Then take a short descent past Au Rendez-Vous des Amis, one of our favourite restaurants, turn right and you’re there. The rest of the road is narrow, its surface is degraded and the elegant military engineering of its switchbacks is slowly decaying into the vegetation. But what you get up here is solitude, within 10 kilometres of the centre of the bustling metropolis. Sometimes the foliage hides the views over the coast, the better to surprise you when you reach the top. At a certain point a barrier will bar the way, but keep going. Quickly you will be climbing the tight set of switchbacks that continues for longer than seems possible and finishes under a collection of commercial telecoms masts. Then there is one final turn to reach the huge fort perched on Mont Chauve's peak. Built on this eagle’s vantage point to protect Nice and all the coast from the Italian border to the Esterel hills behind Cannes, it can be explored by foot via the paths that encircle it. The best time to come, perhaps, is early in the morning, to watch the sun rise over Italy; on clear days, from the fort, Corsica can be seen on the horizon. And walk around the back and the mountainous landscape of the Mercantour National Park opens up before you. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE Madone d’Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE

Return Of The Kong He's a crime fighter by day, father by night, cyclist and runner at any and every other time possible. He’s a local amateur rider who happens to be as fast as the pros on the slopes of the Alpes-Maritimes. He’s last year’s winner of L’Étape du Tour and Gravel Roc d’Azur. Most of all, he’s addicted to the outdoors, to all the training, adventure and escapism the Alpes-Maritimes have to offer. He is Cedrick Dubois...aka...Kong Fùfù. His emergence from Strava ghost to the top step of the Étape podium started in the summer of 2015, shortly after the opening of the Café du Cycliste HQ in Nice's Old Port. A chance visit chez nous led to the Man, The Myth and The Unmasking. Fast forward to the start of 2020 and the surprising yet refreshing announcement that both the Grand Départ of the Tour de France and L'Étape du Tour are coming to Nice. It was obvious that the winner of last year's Étape should be the guide to what for many will be the ride of the year. We find the man with perhaps the greatest knowledge of the Alpes-Maritimes, appropriately, doing his winter training on the gravel chemins of Mont Férion. Last year was a good year for you, tell us about your season highlights? It was a good season, especially because I’ve been targeting L’Étape for three years and, for sure, finally winning it was the highlight. During last year's winter training , I regularly thought about that finish line at Val Thorens. I became aware of this event quite late on, and didn't realise how popular and competitive it was! It was one trophy that was missing from my collection. How did you manage to win it? The competition is high. In France, L’Étape is considered the biggest event of the year for amateur cyclists. Each year, there is a lot of waiting and speculation about the route which is unveiled in October, and those who want to win go and learn the course very early. And the 16,000 entries are sold out in less than half a day! Last year, what I tried to do was to be present in the leading group at the foot of the 35km final climb, up to Val Thorens. I found myself alone with 25km to go and I somehow held on to take victory. How excited were you to learn that this year’s event is in your own backyard? To see a stage of the Tour take place here is almost surprising. The parcours covers the more mythical passes of the region, which are part of the Tour's history, but that was some 45 years ago. For me, to have the Tour and L'Étape here is a source of pride. During the last four or five years you could sense a real attraction for foreign cyclists to the Nice and its hinterland, on top of the professionals who regularly come to train here. To have the cycling world's eyes on our region makes me proud and two stages of the Tour here will attract even more cyclists from around the globe to visit. What do you think about the parcours for L’Étape? I think it will really open the riders’ eyes. And this year’s edition of L’Étape offers a sacred finish. After the Col de Turini : 40km of downhill to Nice including the breathtaking descent from the Baisse de la Cabanette with its chain of hairpins stacked on top of each other above the ravine, then to climb and descend Col d'Eze on the Grande and Moynne Corniches before finishing on the Promenade des Anglais is sublime. But there are even more beautiful landscapes on offer outside of the parcours. Hopefully people will take the opportunity to stay a few extra days and discover all the region has to offer; places like the Gorges du Cians, Gorges du Daluis, Col de la Cayolle or Col des Champs. At 44 years old what is your motivation to keep going at this level? Aren’t you tempted to sit back and relax once in a while? I feel that I still have form, but I work more on endurance and I find pleasure in riding for five or six hours, usually towards San Remo at this time of year. Because I know I still have a certain level of performance, it allows me to continue to enter these events. I can't see myself stopping but rather moving on to something else, like trail running or gravel riding. I'll only stop when my body and mind tell me to or when I don't have the time anymore. I think this comes from the world we live in today; outdoor sport is a big window to escape out of, to spend time in the mountains or on the bike is a luxury and a way to get away from it all. Road-cycling isn’t everything to you – gravel and trail running seem to be as preferable as the classic cols of our region? I started cycling via the mountain bike in the 1990s and I came to the road after that to improve my fitness. But if I'm honest, my preference is to go by the gravel roads and trails, it's in my genes. I don't rely every time on the road bike, or sometimes I just need to leave the road for the views from the tracks. That's why I add gravel. Trail running goes in the same direction, there are areas where the mountain bike and gravel bike can't take me. Trail running is for the challenge, to push my limits, to reach the summits of the Mercantour National Park. Honestly, I manage to find pleasure in any discipline and it means I don't get bored. I jump from one sport to another according to my motivation, the seasons and the weather. Why did you choose the gravel roads of Mont Férion for your winter training? Because Férion commands respect, it is a dominant part of the land mass visible from the port of Nice and it is a bit like our Mont Ventoux (only on gravel). The climbs are long and frankly demanding. Effort is required, for durations of 25 minutes and more, which is not bad in winter. Its western slope is exposed to the sun and the tracks are not too rocky, not billiard table smooth, but for this region they are really quite regular. From the port of Nice it's an 80km loop. And the view…. is just magnificent at the top. How would you compare gravel riding to road riding? For me it's simple. If I can ride for six hours I'll go on the road bike, then between three to four and a half hours I'll choose my gravel bike, under three hours and I'll opt for my mountain bike. Where I live, there are no flat roads. That means after four to five hours riding, you're washed out. Each climb is steep so you never recover. It's the same scenario when mountain biking, after three hours you're physically empty. You won Gravel Roc last year – a nice win given your early career in MTB and your long history with Roc d’Azur – tell us about that race. I raced my first Roc d'Azur in 1992 in a juniors team! As the race became the last round of France’s mountain biking national cup, I competed around 15 times up until 2004. More recently I did two Roc Marathons in 2016 and 2017 and can admit, I missed it! The tracks aren’t technically demanding but they are fast and you ride intensely for the whole 80km. The gravel version offers a 65 kilometres course including some classic tracks from Roc d'Azur yet avoiding the most difficult parts. I’m thankful for the organisation to put in place such an event, set during the Indian summer it gathers 300 racers and with the adjoining bike show presenting next season's bikes, it's an enjoyable race! Do you think this gravel trend will last? It’s at an early age, like mountain biking in the 1980s. The main difference is, gravel riding has already some variants such as commuters, bike-packing, cyclo-cross and ultra-distance. There aren’t any strict rules, you can come across cyclists with saddlebags and panniers, others with a much more urban style. It’s kind of underground, people like the fact there aren’t any codes, everyone has their own identity in their practice and their own definition of what gravel is. I’m convinced some of them ride on the road with a gravel bike only because they like the look and the spirit of it: a versatile bike made for all kinds of adventures. I like looking at what’s being made in the U.S. as there are plenty of small independent builders making interesting bikes. But you'll still focus on the road until at least until the 5th July 2020? For sure I will. Even though I know every climb with my eyes closed, I haven't yet ridden the full parcours of L'Étape in one loop. I'll have plenty of opportunity as I'm guiding cyclists from abroad who are coming to familiarise themselves with the route. An exciting season lies ahead! Despite his love for the rough stuff, Kong Fùfù will be back on the road shortly to show us the first climb of L'Étape : the Col de la Colmiane as part of the guide to the mountains that will be the stage of many stories for both professionals and amateurs alike this summer.

L'ANNÉE 2019 Another twelve months, a few thousand kilometres, new friends, old friends, many bikes and the same love of cycling. From opening the doors to a huge network of gravel roads on our doorstep, to heading Due South in this year's shop-to-shop Audax, and heading north for a wheels to waves bike-surf adventure. This is, or should we say, that was 2019. #1 SHOT OF THE YEAR Getting outdoors, out there, as far or as high or as remote as possible has long been the aim of the game. However, escape within the city can be as much fun. During the heatwave in the middle of summer, Paris still delivered its famous light as we toured the city in the limited edition Bastille jersey. Let’s see if other cities can provide the same, shall we? #2 RIDE OF THE YEAR In less than twelve months Michael Angelo Covino and Kyle Marvin went from shooting the first scene of their film, The Climb, on the Col de Vence to winning the Coup de Coeur prize at Cannes Film Festival. Having supplied the riding kit and the peloton for the first scene, there was only one thing left to do - organise the first edition of the Tour de Cannes on the Corniche d'Or before the party began… And the film is due to hit screens around the world in early 2020. Watch this space…and the screen.     #3 ADVENTURE OF THE YEAR Biking to the beach in Asturias. First it was a winter adventure from pedals-to-piste with Audrey and Manon up in Auron. Then in Spring it was time to go from wheels-to-waves. Two passions, one adventure. Swapping the blues of the Côte d'Azur for the greens of Spain's northern coast, camping beside the sea to catch the best breaks. 2018 was fly fishing, 2019 was skiing and surfing. Answers on a postcard for 2020, please. #4 PRODUCT OF THE YEAR The Lisette Gilet. The Atelier Collection has been a joy to develop. The Fleurette sunrise summer jersey and accompanying raspberry Marinette bib shorts were a summer standout. The Solange winter jersey for the rough stuff was literally a sell-out. Lisette, from the Arrière Pays collection, is in part a celebration of the environment we cycle through. That it proved a popular product goes to show the inspiration is mutual. #5 AUDAX OF THE YEAR The North Cape 4000. Due South was the second in the ‘Due’ series, aka our reason to invent the next DIY Audax. The other compass points are on the ‘to do’ list. Due South’s stagiaire, Sophie Gateau went on to tackle her biggest challenge to date – the NorthCape 4000. She says it was just to avoid the mad dogs (literally) of the TCR. A bit extreme, or just audacious? #6 EVENT OF THE YEAR Further. An eventful year of events….The early season saw James Hayden chase down the race leader of Italy Divide only for the two riders to decide enough was enough and finish together. The second edition of Fête des Zinzins delivered crashes, climbs and a pizza party. But Further lived up to its name. Hike-a-bike across the Pyrenees via roads, tracks and smugglers’ trails. Next year though, it has to be a return to the traditional for L’Étape du Tour, but surely there is a twist in there. #7 RIVIERA GRAVEL OF THE YEAR La Turbie to Fort de la Revère. Via del Sale is one of the most dramatic gravel routes within riding distance of Nice, and is a 'must-do' for lovers of the loose stuff. But as part of the Riviera Gravel series, the climb from La Turbie to Fort de la Revère epitomises the flexibility of the cycling in Nice. Off the beaten track yet with a finale that delivers a baclony view over the great big blue and a quick descent back to Nice afterwards. With new gravel rental bikes arriving in the Café as we type, it's your turn to discover Riviera Gravel. #8 SWIMHOLE OF THE YEAR Rochetta Nervina. What's better than being able to ride into two different countries (don't forget Monaco stands in the way of the Italian border) via the Riviera coastline on a standard day in the saddle? Answer : being able to ride up a valley through ancient villages and olive groves to a crystal clear river pool to dive into for a mid-ride refresh in the middle of Mediterranean summer.     #9 MOUNTAIN OF THE YEAR Mount Fuji. Joining the Montagnes du Monde Series, Japan's tallest mountain made a big impact, helped by a local explanation of its hold over those that live in its shadow. Clouded in history and heritage, it’s definitely one to add to your badges for cols checklist. #10 ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE YEAR Le Tour de France & L’Étape du Tour in Nice. Unless you’ve been hiding in a bunker, you’ll know that 2020 sees the biggest sporting event in the world starting on Café du Cycliste’s front door. Two stages with a surprisingly mountainous second day could shake up the GC from the off. And with L’Étape du Tour taking place the following week it’s time to ride the Riviera. Dates for your diary: Tour de France Stages 1 & 2 : 27-28 June 2020 L’Étape du Tour : 5 July 2020. See you there.

Col de Brouis: Nos montagnes à la carte #11 For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. To the north of them was Tenda, an Italian town surrounded by lush forests that were the Italian king’s favourite hunting grounds. To the south, along the fast-flowing Roya river, were two small French settlements and another border post with Italy beyond. They were stranded, with only high rock walls and enemy territory on all sides. No wonder there are so many barracks on the Col de Brouis. The soldiers sheltered here at this strategic point, ready to fire down at the armies advancing upon Breil or to mobilise and defend the pass. Up, right above, on the many hiking trails of these mountains underneath the Authion plateau, is another huge barracks. It stares down at you as you climb the road from Sospel with large empty eyes, for the building was never finished or inhabited. From Sospel the climb starts in the pleasant and open meadows in the valley of the small river Bevera. It ascends through deep gorges, though never too tight, and ends in open meadows again. It is as if the pass is higher than its 879m, and you have passed into the northern Alps. Actually, these fields used to sustain a sizeable number of people that lived on and around the col. It is still open year round: you will see serious local cyclists training here through the winter, and the auberge at the top serves the best brownie in all of France – if not the world – as a reward. The side into the Roya is more closed in, but the road is pleasant, wide and well surfaced, with an even gradient over its 8 kilometres. On the mountains above here, the locals collect mushrooms, herbs and wildflowers. Some of this is transformed, by an artisan who lives in Breil, into Baume de la Terre, ‘Earth Balm’, an ointment that soothes sore muscles better than anything else we at Café du Cycliste know, and which is compulsory after a long day riding in the hills. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE Madone d’Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

Mont Vial: Nos montagnes à la carte #10 Mont Vial is one of the few peaks of the backcountry behind Nice that is recognisable from the sea, and cyclists riding towards the Var valley can orient themselves by it, too: it will float in and out of view as the roads dip and turn. Do not get confused, however, with the Madone d’Utelle, which lies a few kilometres to the east and which also has a man-made construction on the top. Whereas Utelle seems to be a flat plateau above a sheer wall of rock, Mont Vial is more traditionally mountain-like and points narrowly to the sky. And whereas Utelle is home to a chapel, Mont Vial is the location for a TV aerial. At 1549m, Mont Vial is also higher by some 400m. What that says about the relative priorities the modern world places on television and heavenly salvation, make of it what you will. Mont Vial stands at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. After so many steep kilometres of deep gorges and imposing cliffs, they combine forces and head along a straight, flat parcours to the sea. There is a cycle path the length of this valley, which is crowded with motels, auto shops and large roads, but the winds in the Var can be cruel and we would recommend, if you’re heading to Mont Vial, taking a more serendipitous route, and climbing along the valley sides. For the villages here – classic medieval villages perchés – are a sign that people have long been sheltering under Mont Vial’s peak. Le Broc, with its galleried square, is a natural coffee stop, as is Gilette, which affords a foretaste of the view you’ll get when you reach the peak. In Revest-les-Roches, where one of the walking trails to Mont Vial starts, there is a massive oak tree, 800 years old, that has stood impassively as generations have passed on their climb to the top. What it must think of the newest fashion – running the 15.5km, 1,000m trail to the summit – can only be imagined. Although Mont Vial can seem ubiquitous, cyclists have to travel far into the backcountry to find the turning, which is tucked away somewhere between Toudon and Tourette-du-Chateau. Those who search will be rewarded, however, with a deserted, small, irregularly surfaced scrawl of switchbacks up the rocky mountain face. (The slopes of Vial contain many rare species of plants in their wildflower meadows, but you wouldn’t realise from the road.) Perfection, in our eyes at least. As you near the top, there are views into the Var’s tight defile, with its huge, striated rock walls, and into the wooded depths of the Esteron. Nice, Monaco and Cannes on the coast are all visible, and if you ascend the day after a Mistral, when the icy wind has scoured all the moisture out of the air, you may be blessed with Corsica’s dark profile on the horizon. Dismount at the antenna and climb to the cairn at the summit, and the Mercantour National Park opens out, a panorama of jagged and often snowy peaks. One of our other favourites, Turini, can be seen under her deep green cloak of forests, waiting for your bold advance. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard Nos montagnes à la carte Madone d’Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

NISSA LIGHT BELLA "When I realised that every morning I would see this light again", wrote Henri Matisse, “I couldn’t believe how lucky I was.” Paris may be the city of light, but Nissa La Bella in winter is the capital of soft low light.

Col de Vence: Nos montagnes à la carte #9 There is a ranch near the top of the Col de Vence: this fact will tell you a lot. Yes, it may only be a venue for horse-trekking, but there are cattle that roam across this mountain, and of all the cols we ride from Nice, Vence is the driest and dustiest and most open. It is the furthest west, and therefore the furthest of our favourite climbs from the great spine of the Alps, divider of peoples, trapper of clouds that lifts itself between France and Italy. The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem in the final kilometres, you’ll have a great view of the Mediterranean from Italy to Cannes and beyond. Riders appreciate this openness in winter, since it allows you to climb (and, more importantly, descend) almost all the way in the sun. In the summer the heat can become blinding and oppressive; do not forget to fill up with water at the fountain that marks the proper start of the climb on the outskirts of Vence. It is said that Alberto Contador rode this 9.6km stretch, which rises 630m and averages 6%, in less 24 minutes. Strava times for local pros including the Café’s friend, Ian Boswell, suggest this is highly possible. Mere mortals who do it in less than 35 should count themselves lucky. It may be the baking heat, or the exhaustion of the climb, but strange things are reputed to go on at the top of the Col de Vence. It is, according to devotees of the disputed science of ufology. Strange anomalies, objects flying at high speed, unexplained lights, all have been witnessed from the Col, or on the plateau, though one of the most recent – the so called ‘Jellyfish of the Colle de Pouis’ – was proven to be a fake. Behind the Col de Vence is the Plateau de Saint Barnabé. For those on the Ironman Nice Triathlon this means the end is almost in sight. After one more short climb, a stunning road dips down towards the Esteron valley and back towards the Var and the Promenade finish line in Nice. For cyclotourists of a more contemplative nature, it is the entrance to a high plateau of farms and perched villages basking in the sun, many offering cafés to tempt you to stop to enjoy the scenery. You may also tempted to stay on the lower slopes, which were a famous hotspot for artists during the 20th century. La Colombe d’Or restaurant in nearby Saint Paul de Vence used to exchange its cuisine for artworks from those in the area. Now, its dining room is a gallery containing priceless Picassos, Matisses and Calders; a Braque, a Miró and a Chagall. Dining in Lycra – even Café du Cycliste Lycra – is not encouraged. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard Nos montagnes à la carte Madone d’Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

September Sessions Admittedly, it's already October. But this ride took place in September and therefore can merit the title ‘September Sessions’. For those unfamiliar with it, September Sessions is a surfing documentary filmed by singer - songwriter Jack Johnson. It captures a moment in surfing history when international superstar Kelly Slater escapes the professional scene and swaps competition and sponsor obligations for soul surfing on new breaks to rekindle his spirit. September in the Alpes-Maritimes offers a similar kind of escapism. Beside the sea, the mercury rests somewhere in the mid-20s. In the mountains temperatures are pretty much pitch-perfect for riding. Roads are quieter, the sun is lower, the light is softer. And the big cols are still open. Legs are still in shape after the high summer season of long days and hard riding. The racing season is coming to a close and riding agendas are beginning adapted for the crossover to winter mode. It’s the perfect time for some free riding, up high. Ask any Azuréen cyclist worth the salt on their sweaty summer jersey about the Trois Cols and they will go all misty-eyed. Three cols - Allos, Champs and Cayolle. Each one more than 2,000m high, each one with its own charm, every one with its own challenges. It's a 100km loop of pure ups and downs - any flats along the way are false ones. In the cycling world, it is a relatively unknown option, maybe because it’s neither race, sportive or brevet. It just is. There are no rules. Go clockwise or anti-clockwise, either way will not disappoint and each col will leave its own imprint on your cycling brain. In September the roads are empty, the sky is a deep blue and the slopes are still vibrant green. Allos has its signs for fly fishing beside the valley’s grand river on the early 4% gradients, the ski village, deserted at this time of year, and newly laid tarmac that winds its way under the lifts to the 2250m summit. A col that cuts through the ridge with high banks either side, it really does go through the lowest part of this particular mountain. The refuge at the top overlooks the Ubaye valley. It’s the only one with remnants of the Tour de France still remaining in white paint on the first set of switchbacks on the north side. Zip up your windbreaker, let the the brakes go, tip it in and find your flow. Cayolle is a 29km-long story of gorges, open pastures and above-the-tree-line Alpine ruggedness. Locals will know that you can take a cut-through road directly off the descent from Allos and on to the climb without having to go the whole way into Barcelonette. Winding through the gorge, the numerous bridges take dramatic turns over the Bachelard river that gets noisier each week with the over-night rain that often falls up above. Out of the gorge, into the forest at Bayasse surrounded by magic trees providing that alpine fresh fragrance that every car driver seeks to emulate. Above the tree line, another mountain refuge offers comfort on the entrance to the amphitheater created by the peaks that tower over the west side of the Col. The Cayolle sits on the border between the Haute-Alpes-de-Provence and the Alpes-Maritimes. Like the Var River whose source is 5km down below, this is where the high mountains start their dive into the Med. Eyes front, heads down, through the tunnels towards Saint-Martin d’Entraunes. But it’s no competition, so stop in the switchbacks to take in the perfect mountain vista below. The Col des Champs offers the final part of mountain drama to finish off the trilogy. In 1975 it was part of the Tour de France when Merckx was the first to the top before he had his famous grand defaillance on the final climb to Pra-Loup. A team Bianchi car crashed on the descent to Colmars and French rider Bernard Thévenet went on to win the stage as The Cannibal showed that he was in fact human. But Tour de France history, whilst nice, is not what is special about this road and this route. The Col des Champs maybe sums it up best. It's a mountain pass like no other, it has roaming sheep and cattle, a plateau of open pastures, gravel roads branching off towards dramatic grey rock formations and a near 360 view offering a kaleidoscope of all that is great about the high mountains. It's been said before that cycling life above 2,000m is the best life. And September is perhaps the best time to be there. The Komoot Route

Riviera Gravel #5 – Via del Sale The Via del Sale or Route de Sel, depending on which side of the border you live, is maybe the pinnacle of Riviera Gravel. It's one of the highest unpaved roads within reach of Nice and quite possibly the most impressive. Reaching the route requires either an out-and-back day trip by car or on the touristic Train des Merveilles, or a multi-day ride from the Café. Whatever your chosen method, to go there is to pass from one azur coastal world to another, higher, alpine place of beauty. Arriving in Tende, looking up reveals an almost 360 degree surround of peaks, in which hides the network of historic gravel roads. These are not simple forest fire roads, but donkey paths the evolved into the double-tracks that gravel riders know and love. What remains of the engineering and construction of the Via del Sale is evidence of its purpose - this was an important trade route for a valuable commodity. From Tende many will prefer to take the switchback packed old border road that snakes its way up the mountainside to the old cross roads and abandoned military barracks that find themselves surrounded by the skiers of the Limone Piemonte resort during winter months. Alternatively, you can choose to add extra distance by starting your ride beside Mussolini's grand abandoned train station in Saint-Dalmas-de-Tende and climb to Casterino. It's a beautiful 13km alpine road to the hamlet where you then continue upwards towards the loose stuff. The east side of the Casterino valley tops out above the tree line at the Baisse de Peïrefique from where you follow the mountain's curve, enjoying a relatively flat and fully panoramic ride with impressive views of the Col de Tende. From Col de Tende following the track east is where the real ambiance of the old salt road kicks in. It's a roller coaster ride along the ridge line, up and over peaks, in and out of the contours of the mountains. Physically demanding and visually rewarding. That Instagram-winning moment comes as the road decides to follow a cliff edge pointing north east towards Turin before turning abruptly back on itself in the direction of the Mediterranean. Those who have ridden the Torino-Nice Rally will remember this section only too well. Many will have been aiming for a hearty Italian dinner and a good night of sheltered sleep at the Rifugio Don Barbera, a 20km ride from the Col de Tende itself. Here you can find refuge in a place where you feel completely removed from modern life. If it wasn't planned, the temptation to take an alpine overnighter will be strong. From the Refuge, the road climbs out to the dramatic views of the Cime de Pertégue before some welcomed descending into pine forests, in which some of the best mountain cabins this side of a hipster-coffee table book are hiding. The final climb of the ride is religious. Or at least it might feel that way if you are riding the whole route in one go. Up to the Passo di Tanarello with its viewpoint over the layers of peaks that line themselves up like accordion back down towards the coast, the last climb is a steep one. From here, the descent to La Brigue is long and rough, taking good bike-handling skills and strong forearms to cover the ground as efficiently as possible. Sometimes that is gravel riding. It's why they say maybe four hours on the rough stuff is worth six on the smooth. But the Via del Sale is not about statistics. It is an experience that will last a lifetime. Read more about the unbeaten tracks that surround Nice in our Riviera Gravel series. THE ROUTE - https://www.strava.com/routes/21790163

Col de Braus: Nos montagnes à la carte #8 About two kilometres from the top of the Col de Braus there is a section of 15% gradient. As this passes, the road takes a little turn to the right and, if you’ve been concentrating solely on what’s ahead, the climb now invites you to look back over the valley. There is a nice low wall to sit on and you can tell yourself, no, it’s not because you’re out of breath, you need to stop to take a picture of the road panorama below. We do at Café du Cycliste without fail, and we label it #everytimeipass. We like to think that this is where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. René was born in Cannes, and as a boy worked at the Casinos while his mother picked jasmine flowers for the perfume makers in Grasse. René bought a bike with his tips and trained, and in 1931 won the Boucle de Sospel, launching an attack on Braus that would not get brought back. He did the same thing three years later, except that time it was during the Tour de France (which has passed over Braus 27 times, the last time being in 1961). He soloed from Braus to win on the Croisette in Cannes, where the crowd went wild, and where one of his supporters, spying someone trying to interfere with the hometown hero, punched the suspicious guy and knocked him out. That man was Jacques Goddet, the Tour’s assistant director. People have been stopping to marvel at this view forever; or, at least, since the col’s famous switchbacks were constructed in the early 20th century. It speaks to something in everyone – drivers and cyclists – who has ever laboured up a road to enjoy a view. However, this is not somewhere to pause if you’re a rally driver – the Monte Carlo Rally sometimes passes through, leaving black rubber marks on the hairpins which never quite fully fade away. Usually, though, the road is quiet, and the weather in this valley seems always to be gentler and sunnier than others inland. Locals come here to hunt in the valleys, and there is a secret swimming spot below, and if you’re here in the winter on a clear day you might even see all the way to the sea. Take your time up the ascent and you will admire the olive groves, and maybe spy the remnants of the old Route Royale, the salt road that linked Nice and the coast to Piedmont and the Dukes of Savoy in Turin. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard Nos montagnes à la carte Madone d’Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – VENCE Take the piste cyclable west and then climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence. Fill up with water at the fountain before tackling this climb that’s a favourite with locals. On the top of the Col de Vence there are beautiful views over all the coastal towns, but once you drop off the back (and climb ever so slightly higher), you’ve left civilisation behind, and you’re out in the wilderness. Bouyon is a good stop for water, and Le Broc has a boulangerie and café, and then you descend back down the Var. If you want to dial the difficulty down, keep on going on the piste cyclable to the coast; otherwise, take the mapped route up to Aspremont for one more climb and a back-roads descent into Nice. key kit Fleurette Jersey The Col de Vence is south facing and the rocky landscape reflects the heat all year around. From spring through to the end of summer, take a Fleurette to handle the furnace that is the Fournaise. VIEW THE JERSEY RIDE INSIGHTS Vence happens to have not only what is perhaps the most perfectly located fountain, it’s right on the junction where the climb starts, but the town is actually famous for the purity of its water. READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE Braus & Turini Time to get serious. A ride that includes two of the majestic cols from our Montaignes a la Carte series and typical of what makes riding from Nice such an intoxicating mixture of pleasure and pain. VIEW THE RIDE Esterel & Adrets The Esterel national park stretches between Saint Raphaël and Théoule-sur-Mer. Stay close to the coast and, early in the year, watch out for the mimosa flowers on the descent back towards Cannes. VIEW THE RIDE Éze & Madone One of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start. Ride out from our Café in Nice, take on the challenge and return to claim your badges. VIEW THE RIDE Mortola Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border. It may be short but it includes two countries and into one principality. VIEW THE RIDE Duranus & Saint Blaise Head up the valley to where three rivers meet, climb higher still and take the time to look around. For those who are looking for some serious up, take in the Madone d’Utelle, from our Montaignes a la Carte series. VIEW THE RIDE GILETTE & BONSON The back country of Nice opens up behind the coast and this ride provides easy access. VIEW THE RIDE OUR BADGES To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we’ve created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. The hard part of collecting your badge is climbing the col. CLAIM YOUR BADGE

Cool Spots For Red Hot Rides Hidden deep within the arrière pays Niçois we found some of the freshest pools spawned straight from mountain springs. The perfect antidote for high summer rides.

Take Me To The River #3 : Rocchetta Nervina Crossing the frontier from France to Italy is not only to chase the perfect espresso but also a feeling of having it all. It might seem strange, but the astonishing difference crossing from France into Italy is real. Is it the smell, the light, the Fiat Punto on the wrong side of the road? Andrea Mifsud, although he lives in Mougins, has a heritage that also crosses borders. With a mother from the Lombardia region of Italy and father who is half French and half Maltese, Andrea can claim to be fully Mediterranean. He has a strong bond with Italy, which sees him returning regularly for longer rides into the Ligurian hinterlands. With his 20 years of age he’s on the upward curve in his racing career but that doesn’t mean he doesn’ t like to mix it up when doing the longer steady rides – like exploring the Italian olive groves and ending it with a wild swim. The pastel colors of the old town of Ventimiglia fade into each other, just like Andrea’s jerseys and the roads and city have that Italian hustle and bustle that somehow fades into an almost musical anthem. Andrea adapts to the pace and strikes a vibrant modern flash across and older-looking town, before turning left up the valley towards Dolceaqua and then Rocchetta Nervina situated at the top of the valley amongst olive groves and the foothills of the bigger mountains. The altitude and the steady climate will guarantee a quality production of the olives, just as they do for the professional riders living in Monaco who make a habit of riding to Dolceaqua for a doppio on their recovery days. Andrea continues straight through Dolceaqua, keen to get to the river. His plight is helped by an Ape – those traditional 3-wheeled, vespa-engined, flat-bed utility vehicles that serve rural Italy so well. The also provide a nice bit of motor-pacing on the false flats and steady gradients that lead up the valley. Steady, that is, if you stay in the valley. A left turn right before Hotel Lago Bin on the Strada Provinciale 68 climbs up into the olive groves like only an Italian road can. It’s a short loop but it’s a severe one. Tarmac becomes corrugated concrete, becomes gravel. Secrets only discovered when turning each corner on yet another surface change through the precious Taggiasca olive trees which produce olives with a soft taste of fruit, just like the smell flowing in the air. It is like a kick in the face coming around yet another corner to see one more muro to be climbed on a that a “road” that is only know by the local olive farmers. Surely the Apes can’t make it up here. Descending directly down into Rocchetta Nervina, with a population of only 275 people, it is quiet. Very quiet. Heads turn to greet Andrea as he slowly enters the square of the former Roman village, which during medieval times brought the pilgrims from Piedmont to the Nervia Valley. Andrea turns left that takes him directly to the most beautiful and clean swim hole just behind the square itself – it’s the most accessible swim hole but somehow having the village as a backdrop makes it a special experience. The Savoys brought peace to the village in the 17th century and that feeling has stayed ever since, leaving the place to be a haven of tranquility, even though it is a popular spot. Locals used to go higher up the river to dive in or go canyoning, but recent landslides have put a stop to that. But that doesn’t take anything away from it. The rougher rock face on the left forms a channel with the polished slab of granite on the right, the former providing a place to jump from and the latter a place to dry out and relax on. It is another very chaud summer day of riding and the refreshing mountain water is everything anyone will ever need to cool down. After drying up and getting back on the bike, Andrea decides it is time to stop at Dolce Aqua. The café on the corner, the well-known spot for riders in the area with a specific flair for the perfect espresso (we are proud of our coffee, but we have to give the Italians respect for what they do with their coffee beans). The contrast of Andrea’s full-on race bike fitted with one of the new-wave handlebar bags filled with his swimming kit draws attention. He falls into conversation with a few locals and before we know Andrea’s Italian side is showing with hand gestures and impassioned stories about his dad. It almost feels like home. See the full swim collection here. Or simply check out our series of Take Me To The River swim holes.

Col de Turini: Nos montagnes à la carte #7 The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather on this, the highest of the coastal climbs near Café du Cycliste’s home town of Nice. Even close to the top of the heaped switchbacks that take riders closer to 1,604m, the sea can still be glimpsed, and warm, wet, maritime air regularly drifts inland and buffets the mountain, leading to downpours on its slopes Across its sylvan slopes thread innumerable trails and roads. Some are fit only for wild boar, deer and, in the autumn, an army of people attracted by the wild mushrooms that thrive in the cool damp shade of the chestnuts, larch and pines. Some of the best chefs in Nice have been spotted collecting mushrooms by hand, to serve in the finest Riviera restaurants that evening. Piera Cava, the village highest on the Turini’s flanks, has an annual mushroom festival where freshly picked delicacies are served alongside wild boar sausages and local wine. Cyclists may be bewildered by the profusion of roads to the Col de Turini. The main routes lead from L’Escarène, closest to Nice, and from Sospel and Lantosque. But pass by the Col Saint Roch, or by the dirt roads to Le Moulinet and you can still get to the top. It starts to resemble a real labyrinth. The numerous routes point to some higher purpose for the pass, one that has almost been buried in history… and higher is where you have to go to find it. Unusually for an Alpine col, Turini is not the highest road around. Travel up above the pass and first you’ll find a small ski resort, and then, even further up, the summits of the Authion Massif. L’Authion culminates at 2,082m, and is a series of interlinking peaks and small plateaux crowned by ruined forts and bunkers. Thanks to its viewpoint high over the Italian border, over several river valleys, and, in the distance, the Col de Tende, the high pass of the ancient salt route to Turin, it had tremendous strategic importance. Control l’Authion, in times gone by, and you controlled the Alpes-Maritimes. During France’s Revolutionary wars in 1793 and 1794, French soldiers mounted attack after attack on the 14,000 or more Savoy soldiers stationed there. They were repelled before eventually taking the Authion, and the region. The ruins now guarding the Massif date from the 19th century, when these Alps became definitively French. Back then, with so many soldiers stationed permanently at altitude, the towns of Piera Cava, La Bollène and Le Moulinet were bustling, thriving places, with markets, bars and entertainments for the massed troops. Now, it is quieter, but the impressive engineering of the roads to the summit remains. The most easterly ascent has been made famous by the Monte Carlo Rally, and the special night-time stage that for decades lit up the snowbound forests every winter. There has also been some notable night-time cycling. In 2001, a group of five English friends were riding from Geneva to Cannes, raising money for a leukaemia charity after loved ones were stricken with the cancer. They arrived at the top of Turini well after dark, exhausted and knowing they had to push on. But to descend the hairpins in darkness was potentially fatal. At that moment, attracted by the day’s residual heat radiating from the Tarmac, thousands of fireflies descended and landed on the road, lighting the cyclists’ way down. The Fireflies Tour, as it is now known, has raised millions of pounds for charity, and still passes every year. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard Nos montagnes à la carte Madonne D'Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – CAP D'ANTIBES The classic winter training route and a perfect recovery ride. Simply take the cycle path west along the sea front, keeping an eye out for rollerbladers and for cars filtering on and off the main road. Just before a big apartment block that looks like an ocean liner the piste cyclable finishes, so take care crossing over to join the road. Once in Antibes, you take the rampart road between the old town and the sea, before heading out on to the Cap. Surrounded by the calm Mediterranean, the pine trees hide huge grand villas, hotels and smooth quiet roads. You'll find a lot of local cyclists doing laps here. Stay for as many circuits as you like, before having a coffee on the other side of the Cap in Juan les Pins and then retracing your route home. key kit Yolande Merino Jersey. As it's a winter or out-of-season ride, the long sleeve merino of Yolande will breathe and heat as required during this lower intensity outing. VIEW THE JERSEY RIDE INSIGHTS Nissa La Bella is the official anthem of our home town. Sung every week at OGC Nice football matches and in schools around the town, it's an ode to where we ride. Another view and another angle to find another way to love our home town READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE Duranus & Saint Blaise Head up the valley to where three rivers meet, climb higher still and take the time to look around. For those who are looking for some serious up, take in the Madone d’Utelle, from our Montaignes a la Carte series. VIEW THE RIDE Gilette & Bonson The extraordinary back country of Nice opens up behind the coast and this ride provides easy access. Enough climbing to be a challenge without being too daunting. VIEW THE RIDE Éze & Madone One of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start. Ride out from our Café in Nice, take on the challenge and return to claim your badges. VIEW THE RIDE Mortola Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border. It may be short but it includes two countries and into one principality. VIEW THE RIDE Vence It includes a col from our Montaignes a la Carte series as well as unforgettable views and a route away from the madding crowds. Climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence itself. VIEW THE RIDE BRAUS & TURINI A ride that includes two of the majestic cols from our Montaignes a la Carte series. VIEW THE RIDE ESTEREL & ADRETS The Esterel coast road starting from Théoule-sur-Mer is beautiful, winding through secluded coves and up and down into pretty village ports. VIEW THE RIDE Our Badges To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. After that we raised our eyes and we added badges for some of the world's iconic climbs, creating our Montagnes du Monde series. Ride the climb and claim the badge. From Col d'Eze on our doorstep to Sa Calobra, Mount Fuji, Mount Baldy and beyond. HOW TO CLAIM A BADGE

Take Me To The River #2 : Ruisseau de Redebraus We recently let the cat out of the bag on Col de Braus's dark side - the Riviera Gravel #3 climb up from Sospel which even extends beyond the road pass itself. And whilst we could again wax lyrical about the road climb's perfection, its history with Les Courses Disparues and the Tour de France, its hosting of the Monte Carlo Rally, we won't... So here is another secret. There's a fresher face to the Braus. On the other side of the mountain the Ruisseau de Redebraus cascades its way down the gorge towards L'Escarène. After you climb the famous picture-perfect hairpins there is a short gravel road that takes you to a waterfall accompanied by a bunker. But it is not the best place for a dip. For that we need local knowledge. Thibault and Laura are actual niçois cycling addicts. Not a day goes by when they don't either ride or plan the next ride. But they also love the outdoors in general and like to look for something else on the more relaxed sorties; or even better, to mix the two up. Do the efforts, reap the rewards kind of thing. Like Manon and Florent, Laura and Thibault have their favourite spots to ride and swim afterwards and the Braus has grown to be the preferred location to ride hard and then relax even harder in the depths of the gorge. Not that it’s all sunshine and sweat. This summer has seen some high pressure storms so that sometimes it’s a race against the rain rather than your riding partner. The weather can be localised and reading the skies is as important as watching the weather apps, but the heat and humidity rarely changes at this time of year. Thibault and Laura flee the coast but not the rain and arrive in L’Escarène via the Col de Nice a bit wetter than when they originally set out. From L'Escaréne there are two choices - a bigger climb directly north towards Luceram where you can choose either the Col de Turini straight ahead or the Col St Roch to the west (which, confusingly, can also lead to the Turini), or the 10km of Braus to the east. There’s no Zinzin attack on the Turini for Laura and Thibault today; just the traditional climb to Braus with a twist : Swimming trunks and swim suit in pockets and a demi-tour back to the perfect spot. The skies clear and the heat rises on the drying slopes of the climb which faces south west. This side can be a cauldron on the hottest of summer days and with the sound of the river below it’s tempting to forget the Col and go straight to the swim. However Laura is determined to get the training in, as she intends to tick Col de la Bonette off her to-do list in a few weeks. With the climb done, the two riders tumble like water back down the mountain, stopping just before the hamlet of Touët-de-l’Escarène where the trail that leads to the swim hole at the Ruisseau de Redebraus begins. There are a couple of abandoned cars with flowers growing from the windscreen and backseats and beyond that a house with six Patou mountain dogs who aren’t as welcoming as the fresh air of the gorge. Proof, if needed, that you are entering the wild side of Nice’s back country. Hearing but not seeing the river and its waterfalls only heightens the anticipation. It’s a cyclocross-esque approach with cleats on rough gravel tracks and bikes being pushed or carried over the shoulder. Arriving at the spot justifies the effort. A cascade falls into the pool surrounded by rocks as smooth as newly shaven legs. The mid-afternoon sun casts a direct line of light and shadow across the peaks and into the basin where the river water collects deep enough for diving. The water temperature is a shock to the system but only for an instant. Every time you dive into a river, the freshness of the water is a surprising contrast to the salt water of the Med. It’s almost like you can taste the minerals that have been extracted from the mountain by the torrents above. It’s a natural consequence of the environment that Thibault and Laura encourage each other to climb higher to free fall into the river. The rocks, warmed by the sun are the perfect place to dry out before thoughts turn to home. And the return journey gets delayed for just a little longer because when Thibault and Laura stop for a minute and look at what’s in front of them, they remember what this place is : a little slice of paradise. See the full swim collection here. Or simply check out our series of Take Me To The River swim holes.

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – BRAUS & TURINI Two of the big boys of the Alpes-Maritimes and two of the cols in our Montagnes à la Carte series – the beautiful Col de Braus and the imposing Turini. After warming up on the gentle Col de Nice, Braus takes you up sculpted switchbacks to 1,002m. Descend on the other side to Sospel, keeping an eye on the peaks over your left shoulder – if they’re obscured by dark clouds, it’s probably best you don’t head up. Sospel is a good place to take stock, eat and refill your bottles before the 24km ride from 400 to 1,600m. It starts off gently, in a deep river gorge, and then gradually opens up, with some remarkable views of rock formations and forests to take your mind off the climb, as well as a chapel perched above the road. There are plenty of cafés at the top for more drinks and food, and then it’s an almost 50km descent down into Nice. key kit Mona Jersey Climbing in the summer months is hot work and the sun can blaze even late Spring or early Autumn. A jersey that breathes and wicks is essential to make a hard task just a little easier. VIEW THE JERSEY RIDE INSIGHTS The Brevet des Zinzins is a challenge of three: the aim is to scale the Col du Turini by at least three of the principle routes (Sospel, La Bollène-Vésubie and L’Escarène via Luceram and the 'lacets' Baisse de la Cabanette). READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE Cap d'Antibes A classic Cote d’Azur roll-out that hugs the sea heading west and arrives at one of the region’s most well-known towns. Ideal out of season when the heat is lowered and the town itself is quiet. VIEW THE RIDE Esterel & Adrets The Esterel national park stretches between Saint Raphaël and Théoule-sur-Mer. Stay close to the coast and, early in the year, watch out for the mimosa flowers on the descent back towards Cannes. VIEW THE RIDE Éze & Madone One of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start. Ride out from our Café in Nice, take on the challenge and return to claim your badges. VIEW THE RIDE Mortola Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border. It may be short but it includes two countries and into one principality. VIEW THE RIDE Vence It includes a col from our Montaignes a la Carte series as well as unforgettable views and a route away from the madding crowds. Climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence itself. VIEW THE RIDE DURANUS & SAINT BLAISE Head up the valley to where three rivers meet, climb higher still and take the time to look around. VIEW THE RIDE GILETTE & BONSON The back country of Nice opens up behind the coast and this ride provides easy access. VIEW THE RIDE claim your badge To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we’ve created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. The hard part of collecting your badge is climbing the col. Braus and Turini includes three cols and two badges, unsurprisingly Col de Braus and Col de Turini. VIEW THE BADGES

FROM THE SOURCE Beacons of water and saviours of cyclists. These are the fountains of the Côte d'Azur that serve riders the life source enabling them to go that bit further. 

EAU POTABLE At the centre of the village, at cemeteries everywhere in our country, sometimes found hiding between high fashion shops in Monte Carlo, fountains providing 'eau potable' are a feature of cycling life in France. It's a great convenience that, depending on your chosen route, usually allows you to carry one bidon instead of two. Saving weight and allowing extra carrying capacity for other essentials, like a second spare tube or a croissant, for example. We are not sure which came first; the fountains or the French pride in the quality of the water supply. What is sure is that before the arrival of running water in homes, fountains were major places of social life - for hygiene, washing food and clothes and inevitably therefore as a centre for interaction between the inhabitants of each town and village. Some are supplied by the general public water supply, others are fed direct from the source. Originally located just outside or at the entrance to a village, at a spring, or close by, connected by underground channels. They were often built on the same site as an earlier Roman fountain, and the same basic designs were used from medieval times until the 19th century. Today they are not as vital in everyday life, but still remain useful, especially to us cyclists. Take a tour de l'eau around the cycling playing field that begins at Café HQ to know where you can get one of cycling's most essential ingredients. LA TURBIE The first fountain on our list may be regarded as 'The Mother Fountain'. It's at the centre of the village of La Turbie and it is honey to the cycling bees who ride the eastern roads of the Côte d'Azur. It was built nearly 200 years ago by the Romans and gets it source from Mont Agel, were the Lost Race, Nice-Mont Agel, once hosted climbing legends like Federico Bahamontes. The footway beside it is called Rue de la Fontaine, the (recommended) restaurant beside that is called Café de la Fontaine. If this fountain was on social media, it would be an influencer. Accessible from Nice, Menton or Monaco as a summit reward or a first step for cyclists either on the 'short' ride up from the coast or before heading to the Col de la Madone, or further afield to Turini, Braus via Peille and L'Escarène. MENTON Go east, as far east as you can go within Southern France in fact, and you'll find La Fontain de la Frontière - the border fountain. It's situated in the middle of the junction where the old road forks left to climb up over Mortola (not to be confused with the similarly-named Italian mur) past army checkpoints and abandoned bunkers - the more interesting and more testing contrast to the lower coast road that takes the tunnels into Italy. On the fountain is written 'Bienfaisance Internationale' : international charity. A positive message located in a place where wars have been fought. Drinking the pure stuff from the tap of goodwill before crossing the border must be a good omen for a ride into Italy. VENCE Whilst La Turbie might be the mother fountain for cyclists, Vence is the perhaps the holy land for water quality and supply, so much so that they have an annual Fête des Fontaines. They number twenty-something in the town and they are fed by spring water from La Foux. This source has been tapped since the first century AD. It is fresh, slightly mineralised and low in sodium, and is said to have diuretic benefits. Conveniently, if you don't have the time to divert into town for the more grand fountains, there is one right at the junction where the 10km of the Col de Vence begins. SOSPEL Sospel is a water town; beside the Bévera river it made its money as a hub on the trade route from the sea. It's still a hub, but mostly for touring motocyclists, enduro mountain bikers and high peak hikers. But it remains very much an arrière-pays town, so much so there isn't even a petrol station here. Luckily for us cyclists there are fountains aplenty. It's needed because the only entry and exit from this town is by Col - Turini, Braus, Castillon, Vescavo or Brouis. Fill your bidon and pick your punishment. MOULINET If you chose the Turini from Sospel you face a 24km climb. Manage your hydration correctly and you can wait for the fountain at the top; but the town of Moulinet also offers a solution halfway up the mountain. In relative terms this fountain is recent. It's marked 1957, presumably because during the Second World War, the entire civilian population of the village was moved by German occupation troops to Cuneo in Italy between September 29, 1944 and April 12, 1945. Now it is a beautifully peaceful place with a very provençal square opposite the fountain which sits on the outside of a hairpin bend in the middle of the town - one of the thousands of hairpins of the Col de Turini that turn you Zinzin. PEILLE The search for water is a good reason to turn off the national road and explore the cobbled streets of the medieval village of Peille. You maybe have come down from the Col de la Madone or through the olive groves on the surprisingly testing Côte de Peille, which features annually as a ramp to string out the peloton on the final stage of the Paris-Nice Race To The Sun. Near the Palais Lascaris, this is an ornate fountain and an example of a water tower designed to display power and importance. EZE Accompanied by a statue of une sirène - a mermaid - you could miss the Eze fountain easily as it hides behind the café chairs and the tourists descending from buses to go across the road and visit the spectacularly perched old town and chateau of Eze. After climbing Col d’Eze take the first right to descend the steep road that arrives on the Moyenne Corniche. The fountain is on your left, with a café directly beside where if water isn't cutting it and you want to stop and watch the world go by. TOURRETTES-SUR-LOUP From Vence, if you don't go up but rather go west you'll arrive at Tourrettes-sur-Loup. It's on the Nice Ironman parcours but is known as a village for artisans. The fountain matches the village's medieval history and, as the name suggests is fed by Le Loup, where we found our first swim hole. Drink the water then ride further north west to swim in the source.