SOPHIE GATEAU | Adventure in the Ardennes
The heatwave of summer 2023, which blasted through the southern half of France, was in the end a blessing. Our initial bikepacking project in the Pro-vençal mountains suddenly presented itself as a crossing of a furnace rather than an adventure discovering the trails of the backcountry.
So, we switched channels. Goodbye cicadas and hello frites, our summer will be spent in Belgium. Over the years, I have compiled a hit-list of routes to ride one day or another, and thanks to the excellent site bikepacking.com, I had gratefully spotted a 366km offroad trail nestled in the mountainous forests of south-eastern Belgium.
It drags us towards the hills, as if it has caught us in its tractor beam. The tone is set, tourists are rare, the landscapes are magnificent, and the temperatures are mild. The Franco-Belgian border no longer exists, materially speaking, so we cross it virtually at the bend of a stony path.
Only the car registration plates indicate that we have moved into another coun-try. History is always present, however. The Ardennes were the scene of fierce fighting during the two world wars, and the memorials and defensive construc-tions which line the route constantly remind us of the madness and fury of mankind.
We abandon ourselves and we enjoy the moment. Ardennes Arbalète is a mix of beautiful rolling forest tracks, small roads without cars and single-file trails that are a little difficult but always allow two wheels to traverse successfully.
The name Ardennes is said to be of Celtic in origin, meaning ‘dark and deep’. This term applies entirely to the dense forests that we cross as well as the black slate cliffs that pierce the landscape here and there.
A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne.
Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife.
Sculpting the Seine River Trail - Sophie Gateau.
A river is an invitation to travel, a reptilian receptacle of a million stories, a living, majestic guideline to new places.
