On the trail of the phantom river in our latest ride near Mont Ventoux…

The Nesque seems not to care much for following the obvious path. Rising high on the slopes of the Montagne de Lure near Sault, it could, like most rivers, have flowed obediently down towards the Comtat plain. But the Nesque has a character all of its own. From its very first kilometres, it turns due south and sets about carving its way through the limestone plateau of the Monts de Vaucluse, cutting across it from one side to the other, wearing it away stone by stone to create one of Provence's most beautiful canyons.

At Monieux, it lingers awhile in a small lake at the foot of the medieval village. Make the most of this last moment of calm before the adventure begins. Just a few pedal strokes later, the river plunges into the gorge and disappears from view. For more than twenty kilometres, it plays hide-and-seek; at times a silver ribbon glimpsed 300 metres below, at others completely invisible, absorbed by the porous limestone that drinks it up like a sponge.

That is the mystery of karst rivers. The Nesque flows as much underground as it does in the open air, winding its way through a labyrinth of hidden galleries before resurging unexpectedly further downstream. While you climb towards the Castellaras viewpoint at 734 metres above sea level, it will continue its secret journey far beneath your wheels. It emerges once more at Méthamis, calmer now, before joining the Auzon near Villes-sur-Auzon.

This route invites you to follow the course of this mysterious river, an escape of more than thirty kilometres suspended between blue skies and sheer drops, offering an exceptional setting throughout.

The main challenge of the route is the ascent of the Col des Abeilles, though that should be taken in relative terms. In reality, it is a steady and regular climb whose only real difficulty may be the heat, depending on the time of day you choose to tackle it. In summer, an early start is by far the best option. At the summit, at an altitude of 1,000 metres (996 metres, to be precise), the landscape is reminiscent of the great Canadian wilderness, a striking contrast with the Provençal scenery found at the foot of Mont Ventoux. On the fast-rolling road that leads towards Sault, the route suddenly turns back on itself at a hairpin bend before descending steeply towards the village of Monieux. Wander through its typically Provençal streets and refill your bottles at the fountain in the village square, now occupied by the tables of a restaurant that, depending on the time of day, may tempt you into lingering a little longer beneath the shade of the plane trees.

The rest of the ride is the sheer delight of the gorge itself. This mineral sanctuary is also a haven for wildlife. Listed as part of the Mont Ventoux Biosphere Reserve and a Natura 2000 protected site, the Gorges de la Nesque are home to golden eagles, peregrine falcons, spotted salamanders and even the rare Alpine longhorn beetle, a threatened species. Holm oaks, junipers and the fragrant garrigue fill the warm air as cyclists glide between tunnels and towering limestone cliffs – an absolute pleasure.

Stop off at Café du Cycliste when you return for something refreshing, and take the time to reflect on the remarkable experience you've just enjoyed. Tomorrow is another day, and this part of the world still has plenty of surprises in store. Discover more about riding around Mont Ventoux here! 

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